Hi all, Looks like I'll now need to do some work on my fuse panel. I had some rough running recently and found it's the white connector burning out where the power goes to the fuel pumps. I've cleaned it all up and adjusted the connector to make better contact. From what I can see the options are a fuse panel with wiring added to the outputs to the white connectors, Dave Helms panel or DIY wiring. I'm fine doing any electrical work. So I'm thinking I'd rather do direct wiring behind the fuse panel from the relay output to the white connector. The question I have is as I'm going to be in there is there any other areas of weakness that I should do when I have it out? I can see the white connector that goes to the starter is starting to turn a bit brown too. Thanks.
I have the Scuderia Rampante board fitted to my '85 Testarossa. It completely solved the hot start issue and runs cold. Very high quality, excellent comms with Jenni Helms and it was very, very easy to fit with no issues whatsoever. I'm an electronics engineer by trade and more than capable, but in my view, the job has been done and been done very well, so why reinvent the wheel. I'd give Jenni a call and send her your board. Problems solved.
I have the SRI panel also. One of the first things I did on the car when I got it. They take the high load fuel and AC circuits off the panel too. It’s worth the money for sure. Been ten years and almost 30k miles. No issues.
The other options are the theunissenguido hardwired board with some improved connectors (my preference if you want a purchased aftermarket solution) or GT Car Parts offers a new board with thicker traces (which can be helpful in conducting heat away from the female "tong" terminals and keep them from burning up so much). This was my preference for how to do it as it keep the original relays in in their original positions, and it keeps them easily replaceable and their sockets accessible for adding test jumpers (for example, running the fuel pumps manually). My rework for the AC, two yellow wires in parallel because it's a big current, and water fans, blue wires (before I also did the fuel pumps) adding wiring directly from the relay output terminal to be spliced into the corresponding wire at the white connectors: Image Unavailable, Please Login These are the 5 circuits that I eventually would up addressing (not my picture, but I had similar problems on these same 5 circuits): Image Unavailable, Please Login Yes, IMO both the start command signal and the brake light signal should have a jumper added to be in parallel (there is really no reason these signal go onto the fuse-relay PWB other than to connect them): start command white wire jumper Image Unavailable, Please Login brake light red wire jumper Image Unavailable, Please Login
Did you guys know that the early TR board did use a few other relais with the 4 pins instead of the 5 pins relais ? Image Unavailable, Please Login So, before ordering any board, check what board you have.
Thanks Steve. My fuel pump wires on the white connector look almost identical to this. Ill check the others too but don't recall seeing any others.
+1 -- That's related to the (very?) early TR using the ...113 relay and its 87 terminal as output for the fuel pumps and later TR using the ...101 relay and its 30 terminal as output for the fuel pumps. (This is also something that is wrong in many of the later TR OM where they show the fuel pump relays as still being the ...113 type when they should be ...101.)
