Garage door remote wiring for a dashboard switch | FerrariChat
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Garage door remote wiring for a dashboard switch

Discussion in '360/430' started by colorfull, Apr 2, 2023.

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  1. colorfull

    colorfull Formula 3
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    #1 colorfull, Apr 2, 2023
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2023
    So this is not a new idea, others have done it and posted, I'm posting my install and a couple things I learned along the way to hopefully help others. Did this on my F430, but suppose it could be done with any switch on any car with these switches.

    Many thanks to @LorenzoR who did it, and showed me how to do it, for the idea to use the oddment switch and all his help! As well as others who posted about it.

    Removing the switches, they just pry out and have bulging end clips holding them in. If you have the CF dash, each is in it's own hole, and there is felt around them which makes them a snug fit. Highly recommend plastic removal tools like this, makes the job a lot easier and you don't scratch anything

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SH5L3DT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    I purchased a 2nd hand rear oddment compartment switch and turned the faceplate upside down. Minor detail, but if you look at the pic below, on each side of the opening is a cutout for the switch plate. One side is slightly larger than the other to match the clips on the back of the plate, if you widen the shorter side ever so slightly with an exacto, to match the opposite side, the plate will pop in easier.

    While I was at it, I refinished all the switches, they could use it, and they now match my other refinished components which I've used SEM 39143. I think the slightly glossy, black look matches the CF better than the matte finish, which to me looks too grey and flat next to the polished CF.

    Please don't look at my soldering, it's so horrible, in any case, soldered the wires to the leads on the remote, then made small holes through the side of the remote so when I screw the case closed, it clamps down on the wires to create a strain relief.

    Tested the switch with the remote prior to install and refinishing.

    Put the remote in the glovebox, tucked it behind some leather flap which I have no idea why it is there, but I was glad it was today!
    This is:
    • a backup in case my wiring goes bad
    • allows the passenger to operate it if I am out of the car
    • you have to open the remote to replace the battery, so coiled up some wire behind it so I can pull it out for that purpose.
    Then ran the line under the dash.

    When re-installing, I found the felt was just too thick. If you put nothing around the switches, they move around ever so slightly when you use them. I used a piece of fabric tape on the bottom, when used on the bottom and top, I couldn't get them in without jamming up the tape. Best would be a piece of electrical tape on top and Tesa fabric tape on bottom to get a snug fit that doesn't jam up the tape.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09KHKYZGS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    The switch does not light up since I only connected on/off, didn't think of this till I was done, I may go back and tap the power line of the adjacent switches to bridge power (Q: IS THIS A BAD IDEA?), I'll see how much I use it at night. I don't like the fact that it's the only switch that doesn't light up on start, but want to be sure that bridging isn't a bad idea first, so some research.

    Rearranged the switches in a pattern that I felt was based on use.
    • Garage door opener, every time I use the car and on the end so easy to locate with just my fingertips when I pull in
    • Fuel door, sometimes
    • Frunk occasionally
    • Side view mirror heaters - really?:rolleyes:
    Everything works!

    Happy to answer any questions.

    @AandSC - check it out, @GogglesPisano because I know you need more weekend projects ;)

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  2. 285ferrari

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    #2 285ferrari, Apr 2, 2023
    If anyone trying this needs an extra switch, so they don't mess up the original, we have plenty used switches here.
     
  3. Qavion

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    #3 Qavion, Apr 2, 2023
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2023
    Perfectly safe. That's how Ferrari wires up their cars. Common backlight power, common earth. Here is the wiring for 3 of the switches:

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    I assume the (unused) rear fog light switch female plug on your car is already wired up to backlighting power and earth, so you may just need to provide jumper wires from the female plug to your garage door switch.
    Red/yellow (GR) = backlighting power. Black (N) = earth.

    Instead of female spades on the switch pins, something like may be neater (sans switch)....

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/325435772959?
     
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  4. Qavion

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    #4 Qavion, Apr 2, 2023
  5. colorfull

    colorfull Formula 3
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    #5 colorfull, Apr 2, 2023
    Thank you @Qavion

    These are the positions they were in when I got the car
     
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  6. Qavion

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    #6 Qavion, Apr 2, 2023
    Thanks, John.

    I'm just wondering if your original arrangement was like this?

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    i.e. but the second one was blank. I'm just trying to figure out what colours the plugs are (for easy reference).

    e.g. White = rear fog, Orange = Park, etc..

    Also, are all the female switch connectors the same shape? The 430 OEM diagrams show the Park Light switch female connector like this...

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    Are yours all the same?
     
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  7. AandSC

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    #7 AandSC, Apr 2, 2023
    Thanks for the great write up John!! I need to get to work on this.
     
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  8. Qavion

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    #8 Qavion, Apr 2, 2023
    @colorfull Disregard. I can see the pin configuration in one of your photos.

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    Looks like a standard pin/plug configuration.

    The wiring diagrams appear to be wrong (no surprises here).
     
  9. one4torque

    one4torque F1 Veteran
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    #9 one4torque, Apr 2, 2023
    Are you having to power the fob w the small battery? Can you power the fob w a step down power source to avoid the battery?

    cool idea.
     
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  10. Sj_engr

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    #10 Sj_engr, Apr 2, 2023
  11. Qavion

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    #11 Qavion, Apr 2, 2023
    Good idea. The Park Light Switch has a source of live battery power (on the light blue wire). I guess you could wire in a cheap converter.

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/114630123464?
     
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  12. colorfull

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    #12 colorfull, Apr 2, 2023
    Thanks all

    @Sj_engr , I have flux, I just don't seem to know what I'm doing even after watching others do it, I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong.

    The remote in the glovebox has an on board CR2032. I suppose I could wire it, however, I really, really struggle with anything wiring related. I just don't know the basics.

    @Qavion the three connectors in there were fuel (black female conn), side mirror heater (I think) (white female conn), frunk (orange female conn), blank, they all use the same connector.

    Original config attached



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  13. Qavion

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    #13 Qavion, Apr 2, 2023
    Half the problems you are experiencing are probably due to the type of tip you have on your soldering iron. I use a chisel shaped tip for better heat transfer. The pointy ones are useless unless you're soldering microscopic connections. I pre-heat the wire and mating surface before applying (flux core) solder.... Knowing the right amount of heat is the key (not too hot to melt the circuit board, but hot enough to melt the solder). If the iron is too cold, only the flux will melt, creating a mess.

    Always clean the iron before use.
     
  14. colorfull

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    #14 colorfull, Apr 2, 2023
    Thank you so much @Qavion , I was about to switch to a chisel tip for the reasons you mentioned and found I was using the side of the tip. These suggestions will def help for next time. I was running the iron about 650d F?
     
  15. Qavion

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    #15 Qavion, Apr 2, 2023
    Actually, I don't even have a temperature-controlled iron. Usually, as the iron warms, I periodically touch the iron to the solder to see how fast it melts. If an inch of solder melts instantly, it's too hot :D

    I can't really see what you're soldering in the photo, but you may have to apply solder to surface and the wire individually (at different temperatures as required), then join them afterwards.

    It may be best to remove the random blobs of solder from that circuit board... in case they break off later and short something out.
     
  16. colorfull

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    #16 colorfull, Apr 2, 2023
    Excellent

    Thank you so much
     
  17. tazandjan

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    #17 tazandjan, Apr 2, 2023
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  18. GogglesPisano

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    #18 GogglesPisano, Apr 2, 2023
    Great write up, John. I was wondering what to do with the extra space I had in the switch bay. This might just be the ticket. Now, if we could just get someone to make custom labels to stick in there.
     
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  19. GogglesPisano

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    #19 GogglesPisano, Apr 2, 2023
    Ugh, like I need another :D I have a laundry list of things I’ve been meaning to get done but I’m “not allowed” to work on anything until the wife and I finish our camper renovation project. I feel like when I get around to it, the car is going to be in pieces for months while I catch up, lol.
     
  20. Sj_engr

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    #20 Sj_engr, Apr 3, 2023
    Flux covering the connections after pre-tinning the target wires. (short answer)

    Coat the target contact such that the flux creates a barrier to oxidation. Hold tip to the connector while adding the wire which should create a very tiny ball connection and look clean. Then use Qtip with rubbing alcohol to remove flux.
    I then cover the connection of wire joint in hot glue but Kapton tape works well too.
     
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  21. Sj_engr

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    #21 Sj_engr, Apr 3, 2023
    Nothing amazing but here is where I recreated some external traces and then also fixed bad through hole.
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    Prior to alcohol cleaning and complete covering in hot glue.
     
  22. collegeboy

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    #22 collegeboy, Apr 3, 2023
    That's super cool and good use of a blank spot.

    Mike
     
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  23. CoreyNJ

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    #23 CoreyNJ, Apr 3, 2023
    And use some Kester leaded. I find unless I’m doing SMD hot air work, old Kester leaded solder is so much cleaner than the newer “no clean” and lead free stuff.


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  24. armedferret

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    #24 armedferret, Apr 3, 2023
    Great work and writeup, dont sweat the soldering....if it isnt visible and it works, then you soldered it just fine ;)
     
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  25. colorfull

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    #25 colorfull, Apr 3, 2023
    Thank you @Sj_engr for explanation of flux and how to use it and clean it up, that plus the top should make it right

    Thank you @CoreyNJ , appreciate that extra tip

    Kinda what I was thinking @armedferret but looks like I may already have a cracked solder issue so this all helps big
     
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