Garage Lift options

I got the Wildfire 4-post double lift - 2 above, 2 below. 12' ceilings, 30' x 40' detached garage. I'm putting restoration projects on top and drivers below. The working project and the race cars (Formula Fords - small) are in the other bay.

 

Another thing to consider when getting a lift, is that the side rails lock into the columns when you set the car up in a raised location. As I was looking around 14 years ago for mine, BendPak was about the only one that had the locking mechanism feature, plus it is certified by the regulators. Just remember when you raise the car to its highest level, you are going to give back a few inches for the mechanism to lock on the columns. No big deal unless your garage is very low. Can't speak for anyone that has had issues with theirs however as in anything in life, if its mechanical, things can happen

 

I have a single post (American custom lifts) and a 4 post lift (Rotary). Single post less confining, much more expensive, got to be careful opening (passenger door in my case), typically has a base plate you have to drive over (mine recessed in the floor).

 

@SeattleStew great info. With all your experience do you think there is any way I could fit a lift in a garage with 10 foot ceilings(exactly 120 inches). I’m thinking not but who knows. I knew I should have had our architect make the ceilings taller but they wanted the tiered design from main house (15 foot ceilings) to garage (10ft) for an design aesthetic and now I’m kicking myself.

 

Wow that is a major issue. I've had an HD-9 for several years, fortunately have not had issues.

 

You can put a 4 post in, you will be limited by what fits on and below the lift is all. But if you put 2 low profile cars there, you should be completely fine. Taller ceilings are always nicer cause you can use more rise on the lift, but if the cars can stack + an extra foot you should be fine. When you’re getting closer to wanting to buy a lift shoot me a message.

 

I recently put two 4-post lifts in. I spent more to go with American made and American steel. I am completely satisfied with the fit and finish.

https://www.advantagelifts.com/products/wide-buddy-by-backyard-buddy

 

I ordered a Omer Bipark. It’s a platform lift like the Autostacker, but lower profile ramp and nothing to hit your doors on when you open them. It’s not cheap, but the easier it is to use the more I’ll use it. It isn’t installed yet so I can’t give a review. I’d post a picture but I don’t know how.

 

I've been looking at these! Please post a review once installed...thanks.

 

I had a rep come to my home to measure my garage for a four post Direct Lift. Unfortunately my garage height from finished floor to underside of ceiling is just 113 inches. The rep feels that with the two cars that I want to store (one at 48" in height and the other at 51" in height) will just fit. I am a bit concerned based on the following:

1. As I understand with Direct Lift, in order to disengage the mechanical locks, you need to raise the lift about 1 - 2 inches, disengage the locks, and then the lift can be lowered.

2. Based on some of the posted photos I see some members with cars brought right up to the within several (one or two???) inches of the garage ceiling. What is a reasonable clearance between the garage ceiling and the car roof? I am not sure about the speed of these lifts and being able to move the lift up, stop, and then bring the lift back down.

3. Similarly what is a reasonable clearance between the lower car and the lift above?

4. I asked about limit switches or stops and was told the Direct Lift does not come with an electric or physical stop. I can obviously use a visual - tape around one of the posts or a tennis ball from the ceiling, etc.

Working backward, while my garage ceiling is 113 inches, my garage door is 6 inches from the ceiling - the lowest point. I am figuring 107 inches remains for clearance. Subtracting the two cars at 48" and 51", 4" for the track height/thickness, two inches ceiling clearance, and two inches lift clearance for the bottom car, leaves me exactly even - no additional space/clearance. Am I missing anything?

My garage is a bit deep such that I could "push" the lift toward the back part of my garage, back my car on the lift such that when raised the hood would be closest to the garage door and the passenger compartment closest to the garage ceiling. This might get me back a few inches to spare.

I would appreciate thoughts and suggestions. Thanks in advance.

 

It could be worse than that. Usually the locks are spaced at least a few inches apart so you need even more slack. The lift manual should indicate how far apart the locks are.

 

Most 4 post lifts you can adjust the lock ladders in the posts individually so you can have the top lock point still give you the clearance to raise the 2” to be able to disengage the lock. The only concern for height is that the crossbar won’t hit the roof of the car under it. Otherwise the only issue is hitting your noggin on the tracks. I put high reflective orange tape on mine so I don’t smack my head.

FWIW backing a car onto a 4 post may be easier unless you have a front camera since it’ll be easy to line your wheels up with the tracks.

 

My shop bays are 40' deep, so I'm looking to put two lifts in the front half, so I can park a car in the back half on the ground, and one on the lift in front half, and have access to both cars without having to move one. I have a Rotary 2 post lift that has been trouble free for 10 years. The Rotary 4 post is too long to work. I've looked at the Bendpaks, as so many use them, but have heard enough people with problems that I'm hesitant. The Challenger home level lifts I've heard all good things, but the runners are taller (need longer ramps) than Bendpak. I do like that they have mechanical locks, and don't require air like the Bendpaks.

https://www.challengerlifts.com/car_lift/cl4p7-cl4p9-4-post-car-lift/

I've also looked at this bendpak parking lift, that shouldn't require ramps, but it requires 6" concrete, and I only have 4". It's similar to the Autostacker, but doesn't have a crossbar at the back that would prevent driving through it when the lift is up.

https://www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/parking-lifts/pl-6000dc/

I'll probably go with a 4 post which would give me the ability to do oil changes and such, when a project is tying up the 2 post lift. I just wish there were a way to not need the ramps. As silly as it sounds, when I have to move cars around, I don't drive them as much. Even with my drive through plan, getting out and placing ramps I wonder if it will limit my use as well...

 

Honestly it’s faster to shuffle cars by driving them on the ground than to raise and lower a lift. Assuming you have a parking pad to stage a car on and you don’t have to drive directly into traffic

 

I've always hesitated to do that because of the wear from starting and stopping the car cold. I asked a friend who is a master tech, and he said it shouldn't be a big deal if it got moved once, and then driven up to temp a day or two later, to burn off any condensate water and contaminants in the oil. My shop is in my back yard, so I have plenty of apron space to use.

 

I have had the ramp issue too and it is easy to deal with. I have a 4 post BendPak HD-9 where the original ramps "drooped" (and were heavy) so you really couldn't drive another car under them when the lift was up. BendPak, I believe offers lightweight aluminum ramps that shouldn't droop at all and stay level with the lift as it raised into position. I can't speak for the BendPak ones as I was able to find a nice aluminum set (very light also) from Eastwood for around $300.00. Problem solved. Now in my opinion, the BendPak, and probably most other 4 post lifts do require ramps. Its the height of the steel bottom that makes it necessary in my view. I have owned my BendPak for close to 15 years now and when I bought it, I liked the fact that it did have the air to lock in the beams where you wanted to raise the lift to. Also, at that time, it was one that was certified, most others were not.

 

Is there a standardized way of testing strength of the underlying concrete to ensure structural support or am I overthinking this?

 

For a 4-post it's not as big of a deal, but if you're doing a 2-post, I'd drill to the slab thickness recommended by the lift's manufacturer. You've got to drill holes for the anchors at some point anyway. If you hit dirt, I have heard of people cutting out an area large enough to support the posts, digging out material, laying rebar drilled into the existing slab and pouring new concrete keyed under the existing slab.
Drilling deeper than needed is also a feature if you get an anchor that doesn't grab, it can be pounded down into the dirt and a new one placed from above (once)
All just stuff I've read on Garage Journal over the years... I have yet to find the time to install one myself.

 

just a couple of additional tips for 4 post lifts having just gone through the purchasing process..

- confirm the maximum track width. Most hoist manufacturers quote a width that is between the uprights. This is wider than the maximum track width for a car as the hoists have flanges that protrude between uprights and the ramps. It is the distance between these flanges that limits the width of the car you can store.

- check whether your lift requires an air compressor for the safety interlock. Some do (Bendpak) and some don’t. For me I didn’t want the additional requirement and expense.

 

Hi- could you please tell us what brand, cost and install cost / timeline? Thanks for the detail!

 

I can, but it won’t help you that much I am afraid as I am in Australia.

I bought this one https://tufflift.com.au/product/tlv4-0ph/ (Installation was about USD500 from memory)

It was cheaper than the bendpak and did not require a compressed air source. It also was a better width re my earlier comments.

I thought of a couple of other tips ..

- check what accessories are included, the one I bought came with drip trays, approach ramps, wheel chocks and castors (so you can reposition the unit any time). They were all included in the price, where some manufacturers charge extra. (Particularly for the castors)

- if you are going to do any work on your car at all, get the rolling jack option at time of purchase so you can remove wheels while on the hoist. https://tufflift.com.au/product/rj35-3500lb-manual-rolling-jack/. It would be a bugger to order later *its v heavy and not liftable by a human* so they crane it in when the hoist gets installed.

 

Raceramps FTW!
I have the same HD-9 Bendpak and got rid of the heavy ass yellow ramps.
Just slide the super light Raceramps in 3 seconds. Easy.
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This is the width issue i was referring to. Might not get your Aventador in here


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Hey Edward- I’m flying in to LA today for a day before I head to Silicon Valley for a few meetings. I’d love to see your setup if you’re around.

No worries if not. Really like the idea of the super light ramps.