Garage Lift Suggestions

I have a Mohawk A7. Great lift, built like a tank, very expensive. Worst customer service on the planet. Came looking like it was used - crappy paint that was chipped up.

Since ceiling height is not an issue - I'd look into Rotary
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I have never had any problems with my Rotary whether it's picking up my 550, race cars, crew cab duallies or golf cart.
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Nice Lift. Nice car. Nice garage. Nice engine stand.

Where did you get the engine stand? I'll be needing one of those in about a year.

 

Thanks. I designed and built it. Free drawing download on my website

 

I have 5 Rotary's in my shop. Two are 23 years old. They go up and down ALL day long! At my house I have Bendpak. They are about 30% cheaper but they don't get nearly the use that the Rotary's get. Also the bendpaks have a longer reach which make it easier to lift some of the exotics

 

Do you want a lift primarily for storage or for doing a lot of wrenching yourself? I went with a 4 post because it's primarily for storage, but also came with casters so that I can move it from bay to bay should I need to reorganize my garage. Also, if your garage has in-floor heating, then bolting in a 2 post isn't the smartest idea

Just did a fair bit of research on 4-posts, and I'd be happy to give recommendations but won't co-opt the thread if your set on a 2-post... GL!

 

I have a MaxJax because I want to move it out of the way when not working on a car.
I'll let you know how I like it once they replace the leaking tube...

 

I have a Maxjax too. Rated at 6000 lbs, compact and very stable. And you can unbolt it from the floor and roll it out of the way when not in use.

I have been very pleased with mine. I only have 8 1/2' ceiling height in my garage and the MaxJax only goes up 44", so that is perfect for my application. You scoot around under the car on a roller seat, works great.

I did a group buy on these a few months ago for Silver subscribers. But even without that it is still a good buy, IMHO.

My Jag in the air:
Alden
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I have garage lift questions. I have a mystery garage, as in I don't know concrete depth? How important is that? Is a four post lift less stressful weight wise on the floor in general? I'm using for storage mostly. I have ceiling height that doesn't lend itself to these? But I am stubborn and figure two small, not so tall cars is the key right? Please share EVERYTHING so I can make a decision. I figure if I do one side and it works, I'll do the other later?

Thanks for help, you guys know this stuff like no one else.

 

I have a four post lift by Atlas. The feet or pads so to speak are roughly eight by eight if that helps.You can always put plates down prior to dispurse some weight.

 

This is simple:
Drill a small hole somewhere out of the way, use a small right angle probe to find the thickness of the concrete, fill the hole.

Local construction engineer could do the same thing for you too.
Alden

 

My concern is uniform thickness. I personally used a jackhammer and chopped up next to the driveway and noticed different levels of thickness throughout?

 

If someone can point out the lift points on a 458, I would appreciate it. So sorry for the slight deviation from topic.

I have a Maxjax, too, but if headroom and space are not issues, then one of the brands mentioned above would offer a more practical choice.

 

FWIW, specs for Maxjax is only 4" thick concrete, a 4 post should be less, variations in concrete pour are typical in residential driveways because there is usually no inspection requirement, garage floors should have been inspected before pour but it depends on your local codes.

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Thanks much Alden, good info, exactly what I was seeking. I am going too look further into actually doing this. Can anyone share height concerns? I'm under recommended requirements. Does that nullify this project or can you assemble and put stops in so cars won't crash ceiling obviously, but is there any reason not to do this if two cars fit fairly ez? I'm also thinking go with 1,600lb fiat spider on top, tiny and lightweight. Thanks again Alden.

 

From the WSM
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I am sure you could engineer some simple, solid steel bar type stops thru the frame, but they would probably just be a Fail-Safe since you would be watching carefully as it was going up, right?

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It all depends on how often you are going to use it. If it is going to be once a year to work on oil changes etc. then get a Max Jax (which is what I have). If it is going to used a lot, then spend the extra money and get a commercial grade lift. Ironically, you can get a used commercial grade lift cheaper than a Max Jax if you have the gift of time to look for one.

 

Thanks much, Dave.

 

My pleasure

 

I have a 130" garage and in floor heating. Only choice for me was a four post as I cant drill into floor.

I got a 9000lb direct lift brand which came with castors to move it easily as well as several trays, wheel stops, and a metal bin. Great deal for $4k installed.

At 130", I can just fit my 360 above my escalade. if I remember right, add 6" to height of both cars to get needed ceiling height. I marked the spot with tape to remind me where to stop when raising it, and used a ladder to watch as it was raised first time.

Hope this helps.
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FWIW, my Maxjax is rated at 6000 lbs, almost double the weight of my F car and 50 more than my Jag. Very stable and you can move it out of the way of you want.

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Thanks for the info gentlemen.

 

So what is a minimum ceiling height would you say to stack two low sports cars?