Thanks guys. I have an epoxy floor and hate to think of cutting into it for a bigger base... Image Unavailable, Please Login
I love the big garages that some of you have. In anywhere urban in California, its pushing it for a tight 2 car garage. With the wide stance and doors of my 355, I really can only get the one car in there. Thinking of adding an addition on for another car but I have to cut into a hillside to do so.
I know you refuse to take advise from me but as I told you I have 4" and this photo is a 5000 lb car. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Per MaxJaxUSA.com FAQs (http://www.maxjaxusa.com/faqs/installation.html): Do I need a special floor or foundation to support my lift? Most residential or commercial foundations are strong enough to support a MaxJax™ lift. The minimum requirements are 2500-3000 PSI 4" thick concrete. Be sure to check your floor on the possibility of it being a post tension slab. In this case contact the building architect before drilling. Visually inspect the site where the lift is to be installed and verify the concrete is in good condition. If your concrete has cracks or other defects, please consult with a certified contractor before proceeding to install the MaxJax™ lift.
Has any one used this one post design? Atlas SP6000 Single Post Specialty Lift - Atlas Automotive Equipment of CANADA
You can get a four post lift with a built in jack that floats over the center and lies flat - may reduce your concrete concerns with additional stability. If you are worried about height clearance, you can get a high lift kit installed on your garage door railing and it will go right up against the ceiling, placing the raised door less than 4 inches off the ceiling.
As you may have seen I have and use my MaxJax lift and love it. I did however use permanent expoxy to set the anchors down so I have zero concern about the lift collapsing on me. Of course safety first...but even with 4" of concrete if you epoxy your anchors down there is no concern. Rock solid! I could not be happier. Also, the thought of that low clearance garage door rails is a great idea--that will give you valuable inches back when you raise your car. Don't look for more excuses not to...get one and you won't regret it!
Here's a photo of a high lift garage door kit installed. Not sure why it shows up sideways when uploaded. It's about 4 inches off of the ceiling. It definitely gives you more room. Image Unavailable, Please Login
That's a 10 foot ceiling. You can put one car on the lift and one car under it. And have enough room to fit one more car (or SUV) on the side in a standard two car garage. I had to call a few companies to find one to install the kit. Find one that does commercial doors and they can do it for you. It was the only way the lift would work in my garage. The opener goes on the side of the door (and is really quiet).
Your not kidding at $350 a sq ft gets expensive I have a big lot and trying to get permits for an ally access garage is insane. May be cheaper to buy in Arizona and commute LOL
Only you can answer that. What's above the garage? Mine is dead space attic and I plan to blow out my ceiling in spring.
Having another garage built, what should I tell them to pour the floor at for a lift? What is standard? What is the cost diff if anyone knows? May just have it poured at 5". I a 9ft ceiling high enough?
The lift supplier should be able to furnish you with the minimum required concrete thickness. Most specify at least 4" with mesh or re-bar but the type of lift (4 post, 2 post or single post) will have some bearing on the required thickness. As far as ceiling height, it really depends on the height of the vehicles, the type of lift and how you will be using it.. Are you planning of placing one vehicle on the lift and another below it? If so, the supplier will have guidelines but generally you need to add the two vehicle heights together plus the runway thickness plus an allowance for settling on the locking mechanism to come up with the minimum height. From experience, a 9' ceiling is probably about the minimum unless you have a couple of really low vehicles.
Yea, I was thinking of putting the 355 on the lift in the winter and the MB e-class underneath it. So I guess if I tell my concrete guy close 5'' I should be safe.
I would go 6" (5000 PSI) if you ever plan to add a 2-post. The cost difference will be minor. 9' ceiling height is low. Mine is 10 and my lift raises 6. I may be able to lift the 355 all the way but it will be close. I don't want to worry about hitting the ceiling so I'm going to vault it and then track the door so it raises up the incline of the ceiling.
Ok, I will talk to them about 6". I will also check the ceiling height. I am meeting with the arichetech on Wed.
