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Gear noise in the rear end of my 512 TR!

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by twsii, Sep 25, 2012.

  1. tvu

    tvu Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Apr 13, 2004
    1,249
    Southern California
    Full Name:
    Trieu
    Sorry to hear the diagnoses. Hope it won't cost you an arm and a leg.
     
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  3. Spasso

    Spasso F1 World Champ

    Feb 16, 2003
    14,612
    Land of Slugs & Moss
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    Han Solo
    Not sure what you mean by both but I assume you mean the Ring & Pinion as well.

    I would look at THREE things.
    1) The carrier, which you are doing now.

    2) The Ring & Pinion,
    Have them checked for proper wear patterns on the teeth,
    Have them X-Rayed for cracks.

    3) The propeller shaft (sometimes called the input shaft).
    Check for twisting at the splines.
    X-Ray for cracks etc..

    Better make it FOUR things, cracks in the transaxle case.
     
  4. Melvok

    Melvok F1 World Champ
    Silver Subscribed Owner

    Jul 25, 2008
    13,289
    Amersfoort, Holland.
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    Mel
    Can you tell us a bit more please Tommy and send us photo's of all damaged parts ?
     
  5. twsii

    twsii Karting

    Jul 21, 2011
    65
    Birmingham,AL
    Full Name:
    Tommy Stinson
    Mel, I remember you saying you had this problem awhile back. did you do the work yourself? Are there any tricks I should know about, as I get started I'll keep you informed.
     
  6. Spasso

    Spasso F1 World Champ

    Feb 16, 2003
    14,612
    Land of Slugs & Moss
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    Han Solo
    This is Mel's story, http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=343161
    It started out innocently as a shifting problem...
    If you REALLY want to know what you will have to do read Mel's story and then this one on Robert Hayden's TR in Australia. Same thing,
    http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=366206

    ALL OF YOUR ANSWERS ARE IN THE LINKS AT THE TOP OF THIS THREAD... AND LOTS OF PICTURES.
     
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  8. PaulusGT40

    PaulusGT40 Rookie

    Oct 4, 2012
    1
    Def sounds like a transmission bearing, either excess wear or over-stressed due to lack of endfloat. All a bit of coincidence if this has occured immediately after the engine came out but depending on what work they did then maybe the noise has been there all along & you only noticed it once the engine noise had been supressed after the service?? I just skimmed through this whole thread but I would say that the first action is to take it back to the engine shop (not sure who that was or what the arrangement was) and at least put them on notice in writing that there is a problem then see if they are prepare to assist but if no joy then technically you do have some recourse for obtaining reimbursement of any costs if it does turn out to be due to their bad/faulty workmanship. Try to put that in the letter.
    Maybe start at the final drive output (diff) bearings if the noise is linked to vehicle speed then work back through lay & main shaft bearings.
    And dont forget that noise does get referred through the car so could it be a wheel hub bearing???
    Anyway, hope it all gets resolved asap and without too much pain & cost.
    P
     
  9. Melvok

    Melvok F1 World Champ
    Silver Subscribed Owner

    Jul 25, 2008
    13,289
    Amersfoort, Holland.
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    Mel
    In fact it is very simple written how ... the problem is with repalcing what's broken ... can you get it and at what price ...

    A diif can now be bought in CA or UK (thoug diffrences in pricing and completeness) so that will not bring the stress ... Obvious that all bearings need to be replaced at the same time.

    Al things else may give you headaches: C & P if broken: where can you find a set ?

    gears; if worn: where do I find the right set (always in two wheels) ?

    Clutch can be doen at the same time: It took me 3 months to get it from the U.K. but it was wort it !!

    My "problem" was repaired after all parts had arrived (took 8 months) and assembly only 3 weeks in all.

    So: it is a simple summary but most likely bring more than was exepected.

    Don't drive the car anymore, get the engine out a.s.a.p., separate the gb and have an expert look at it closely.

    Please tell us what you find .....

    GOOD LUCK, keep your fingers crossed, maybe you were just in time ...

    But DO READ all threads !!!!!
     
  10. twsii

    twsii Karting

    Jul 21, 2011
    65
    Birmingham,AL
    Full Name:
    Tommy Stinson
    ive been reading some previous post on this kind of problem and it made me start thinking about the service that was just done. a question comes to mind, so if anyone can follow my thoughts please chime in. after the service i noticed the shifting was a little off( the shifter rested a little off in neutral ) it hit the top of the shift gates only by a hair, could the shift linkage being out of line cause a problem with the diff? i do have a complete answer to the problem! i could send the car to texas and have bob norwood do a twin turbo mod and a diff repair at the same time. 800 rear wheel hp sounds nice to me, what do you guys think?
     
  11. Melvok

    Melvok F1 World Champ
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    Jul 25, 2008
    13,289
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    Mel
    The shifting is not linked to a possoble diff failure imo .

    If you do an upgrade (turbo's) go for the U.K. diff ... it was made for very many HP's extra and has a lifetime guarantee ...
     
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  13. Spasso

    Spasso F1 World Champ

    Feb 16, 2003
    14,612
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    Han Solo
    The shifting, or shifter adjustment won't contribute to the problems with the Differential.
     
  14. ants2au

    ants2au Formula Junior

    Nov 19, 2003
    690
    Sydney Australia
    Full Name:
    Anthony
    Hi,

    any photos for this? any updates?


     
  15. twsii

    twsii Karting

    Jul 21, 2011
    65
    Birmingham,AL
    Full Name:
    Tommy Stinson
    no updates yet im going to start the repair in january, ill start updating then.
     
  16. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

    Apr 6, 2008
    6,724
    southwest germany
    Full Name:
    romano schwabel
    tommy,

    if you still like to have more, much more power and put 2 turbos on you also need a stronger C P part. I have let built special ones at bremen, germany. the company name is TANDLER. it cost me very very much money but I hope it will be worth it?? have not driven until now after repairing.

    the diff I let made in australia by MODENA.

    when you put on the turbos you also need 2 coolers for the air if you go with more than about 7 psi. you have written here something about 800 hp on the rear wheels. for this you need about 16 to 17 psi boost. but then would be better to put in lower compressioned pistons and a little more boost. also it would be good to update the cooling for the pistons with engine oil like truck engines have it: the oil sprays from the rod bearings directly to the buttom of the pistons. or you make from the main oil passage in the engine block 12 outlets directly with injectors to the pistons so the oil could cool down those high piston temperature. the original oil pump delivers enough oil. only then in idling when the oil is warm the pressure goes very much down to about only 7 psi.

    if you would need a used C P part what is still ok I have here 2 sets. they are from the gearboxes I replaced those things and put in the special made parts. i replaced them because of the too much power and so it makes no sense to put them into a gearbox with not the original power from the engine
     
  17. 1974gt4

    1974gt4 Formula 3
    Owner

    Sep 19, 2009
    1,496
    in my garage...
    Full Name:
    Dr. Italiani
    ...a previous poster suggested Royal Purple.

    I have used RedLine in the trans and diff in the past for other cars, helps tired syncros in cold weather and I trust it.

    Any reason to *not* use this fluid/brand on a early TR?

    thanks.
     
  18. Mr.Chairman

    Mr.Chairman F1 Rookie

    Mar 21, 2008
    2,942
    New Jersey
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    Robbie
    Not really I would use what you feel comfortable using. I like royal purple with no additive. I've heard that sometimes the additive can cause issues if used in excess.

    R
     
  19. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

    Apr 6, 2008
    6,724
    southwest germany
    Full Name:
    romano schwabel
    all those additives are only good as long as the oil will not get to warm.

    I have on my gearbox oil the problem that it is getting because of the much HP and the limited slip diff more than 150°C on winding country road when I go fast or when I accelerate very hard. on freeway/autobahn I can go over 300 km/h without any problem. the gearbox oil then is only about 110 to 115 °C

    I talked to several oil companies ( castrol, mobile, texaco ) and they all told me that with this high temperature the oil must be changed after not even 1500 km because the additives getting bad. so a temperature up to 120 °C should be no problem for the additives.
     

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