Gear oil for stubborn F355 box

You many wanna give Amsoil a try.

 

At this point I would doubt the gear oil is causing the problem. Have you taken a look at the syncros and shifter/clutch adjustments?

 

Most go right to changing gear oils before making sure the shifter is aligned right first because it is easier to throw some oil in. No change means it is something else. so make sure the shifter is aligned right first then play with oils. If for example when heal toe downshifts are difficult when you are rev matching I'd deffinately look at alignment. Also motormounts that are bad throw alignment off too at the shifter. Sometimes if you don't have the knowledge have a pro look at it.

 

+1. I found Amsoil Severe Gear oil 75W-90 to be excellent.

 

One easy test is to select a higher gear from N when stopped, and then quickly go from that higher gear into 1st -- if it easily goes into 1st (when going from N to 1st when stopped is difficult), that's a sign that your clutch is not disengaging well/completely; if it's still trouble, you know nothing more, but at least you are not dirty

 

As FBB said, this is not an oil issue.

Are you leaving the clutch OUT while waiting for the light? As in: wait with clutch pedal high, depress clutch, shift into 1, raise clutch?

 

Or as a long shot, meet up with another 355 owner to make sure the effort you have to exert isn't normal. I don't know the 355 gearbox or if you've owned others of these cars but they can be a bit firm to shift. I question mine at times but others that are familar including two different techs say it is proper and normal.

 

Which do you recommend, Mitch? I always throw it in Neutral and let the clutch out - too much wear on the TB the other way.

 

I agree that it may not be the oil that is causing the problem.

 

Correct. If the clutch is depressed durring the wait, the throw-out bearing has avoidable stress along wiht the seals, slave and master cylinders,...

Stop, gear in neutral clutch out.
When light is about to go green: clutch in, shift into 1st, wait for light, release clutch smoothly.

 

Sounds like typical symptoms of a not fully disengaging clutch. Could be anything from a bad T/O bearing to air in the hydraulics, even a dampening spring fallen out of the clutch disc. Best try the clutch bleed procedure first. Is the reservoir topped up?

 

Those are not the sysmptoms I typically experience with air in the clutchline. However, the clutch is easily bleed. I personally have never had good luck with a one man bleed unless I pressurize the master or do the two man bleed. I one man pressure bleed trackside because I'm by myself. At home I always two man bleed. Two man works better than one. The much beloved Motive bleeders have never worked for me.

 

+1 - a willing and patient assistant simply cannot be beat when it comes to bleeding!

 

+2

 

This thread is 7 years old. I think he worked it out by now lmao.

 

Even then, I still like having options.

 

What oil do you recommend? Post up the info here.

 

He resurrected a 7 year old thread to promote SWEPCO lubricants that he represents...review his post history and see he does this a lot, looking for opportunities to hawk Swepco.