My 355 seems to hate 4th of July. For the second year in a row, she's unhappy ! After a great drive, I noticed oil on the garage floor upon my return. It's definitely gear oil. It's covering the rear crossmember right below the F1 actuator. The transmission block seems to be relatively dry and the oil seems to be congregated just in the area of the actuator and drivers side rear crossmemeber. The accordion rubber boot on the actuator seems to be pretty soaked on the bottom side and the crossmember right below it is also soaked. I'm hoping you guys can point me in the right direction. Thanks, Skipp Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks. Hope you're doing well. I found a post from 2012 on how to do this. Apparently you need the SD to do it on the F1. Does the SD re-align the rod or something after you put things back together ?
From a mechanical standpoint, not sure I think it can't be done without one... I think the key is to mark everything before taking it apart and be sure it goes back the same way. But, I've not done it so I'm only speculating. Just briefly reviewed the WSM and it would seem the issue is actuator centering. Again, if you mark everything very well (scribe, take accurate measurements, etc) I think you may be able to put it back exactly the way it was.
I'll add that the two clamps to seal the rubber boot in place are both missing. I assume that there should not be gear oil leaking into the boot regardless of the whether the boot is properly sealed on both ends. Correct ? I.e., clamping things together may stop the leak, but the oil whould then be piling up inside the boot.
Giving the actuator centering some thought while looking at the hydraulic circuit..... The two actuators are multi-position. Example the one that switches gears 1-N-2, 3-N-4, 5-N-6 has an extend, retract and center position. Similarly, the one that provides the change for the R, 1-2 to 3-4 to 5-6 position also has an additional piston to handle R. Without having one of these apart, I can't say if the center positions are detented in any way (and I don't believe they are - it seems all centering is done via the valves). So, with the hydraulic pump off, based on the circuit, all the valves that supply fluid to the actuator will drain to tank (no pressure in the actuator). Under that condition, when you disconnect the actuator, you would be able to freely move the actuator shaft in and out and rotate it. So, when the hydraulics are off, the gear box shift rod would actually hold the hydraulic actuator in place. So, I do believe if you marked everything properly before removal, you could put it back together without the need to run the SD centering function. Seems the key is the connecting bolt must not have any interference on it when everything is tight. Make sense?
That does make sense to my non educated brain. I'll probably tackle this next month with the mechanic that is helping with my Dino suspension rebuild. I believe he has the electronics to do all the F1 stuff too.
Daves explanation will work as far as i am concerned the problem however as he suggested is ensuring that it goes back exactly as it was. I dont feel this could be done without knowing the tollerances of th shift points. My suggestion is take in in which you allready sound like your doing. That being said if i was stranded i would do this but i would still take it in after to confirm. If the tollerances are small i dont think you could ensure you got it corr ct and possible prematirely wear a shift fork, etc.
The WSM makes reference to a "locking tool" Anyone seen / know what the gear box rod locking tool is? Looks like to use the SD procedure, the gear box shift shaft must be locked from movement. EDIT: Here it is... Gearbox Parts for Ferrari 355 - Superformance Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks guys for continuing to research this issue for F1 cars. Do you carry these locking tools Daniel ?
