Getting the Engine back into the car

In a few days I will be ready to install the engine back where it belongs. I would like to know how much can be assembled and not have a problem putting it back in that tiny space. I seemed to remember seeing a picture showing one being installed but can't seem to find it. I have lifting straps and a chain hoist with a balance bar system that can tilt the assembly. Any comments will be appreciated.

John

 

John - first, I suggest having two colleagues or friends helping you in the reinstallation. One will handle the cherry picker while the other two fend off from either side.

The engine can be reinstalled with the forward header installed. The heat exchanger can be attached to the engine prior to installation. The lower heat exchanger oil line, if left off until after installation, makes things easier. The distributor cap must be off, and in general, it is easier to install with the distributor off, but if you go slow and with the extra hands to fend off, the distributor can be in place during installation.

Off course, the carburettor plenum should be off. The air cleaner box (can) should be out of the car. The crankcase recirculation cannister on the driver firewall should be on the workbench.

Make sure to securely attach your alternator wires (coming out of the back of the alternator) prior to installation. Swing them out of the way, but they are a real bear to put onto the back of the alternator once the engine is in the bay.

Of course, the entire transmission and bell housing will be assembled on the engine prior to lowering into the engine bay.

Is yours an air conditioned car?????

The rear exhaust manifold must be on the garage floor.

The trick is to not only angle the bell housing down (hard...hard down...severe angle...almost standing on end), but to also rotate (twist) the engine such that the differential housing clears the cross bar at the rear of the engine bay. This bar is the one that defines the lower aspect of the trunk.

Things to watch out for: Make sure that the forward exhaust manifold does not take out your 60 amp fuse box on the fire wall...easy to do. Make sure that you remember to insert the clutch cable in the mounting bracket on the engine as you lower the engine. Stop on the way down and place the clutch cable in. Once the engine is all the way down, you must severely bend the clutch cable to get it in the bracket. Make sure that the throttle linkage bar and the swivel on the firewall are on the garage work bench before lowering the engine, else you are likely to bend it as the engine comes in. Attach your starter cable and solenoid cable before installing the aft exhaust manifold.

Have fun.

Jim S.

 

Sound advise JS, i found that the angle doesnt need to be as severe as you mention though, approx 30 degrees is enough.

I would also remove the crossbar between the engine bay and boot [trunk]!!

Leave the transfer gears and case off too. The tricky bit is lining up the engine mounts, easier to locate them whilst the engine is just hovering above the mounting holes, slide the bolts in and then let the engine down that last 1/4"

Tony

 

Tony - yes, of course the cross bar that holds the coolant overflow/filler tank must be removed. I assume that it is already out. Good point.

I have never reinstalled the engine without the transfer gears and case intact. Although, as you mention it, tightening those ring nuts to specified torqure would be easier after the engine is in and the half-shafts attached. Then the wheels, on the ground, will provide a force to torque against.

My mention of the severity of the angle is to merely illustrate that the steeper the entry angle, the more room one has.

Jim S.

 

omgjon has many pictures of doing everything to a Dino. Has a website dedicated to this as well as his restoration thread in this Forum. Web site is well organized and is the best place to view the pictures.
http://www.dinorestoration.com.
Thread has lots of commentary but little relevant. Reassembly #389 on his website shows engine being lowered. Front headers are on. Alternator is on. Oil heat exchanger is off. Distributor is off. Rear headers are off. Everything else is there. Make sure the motor mounts are set up right. The book is wrong for cars built after 1971. Jon has pictures. The note about the clutch cable is right on. It is a son of a gun to get on with the engine all the way down. Be careful with the speedometer cable and don't kink it. It wants smooth curves all the way. Some lube wouldn't hurt either.
John

 

MOST IMPORTANT!

Make sure your fuel tanks are in first! (at least on an "L") Other wise you'll have the pleasure of doing it again.