Thank you Ivan... That does help... I have just about finished cleaning up the rear wire loom... I have pretty much isolated where all the wires are connected to in the rear. Still need to determine which rear wire connects with its respective front loom wire, but I have some diagrams I made, and I have the Claus Groth Ghibli Electrical manual from MIE.. Should allow me to get this solved! I realize there might be some differences in the older Ghibli's, as per the Groth manual, and the 4.9 Ghibli SS... Since I hope to be installing the rear wire loom shortly, now is the time to install the rear taillight housings! The inside of these housings are a bit dull. Has anyone painted these so they would be a bit brighter? If so what paint was used? Additionally, I will be ordering new taillight lenses for the housings. I doubt these come with the gaskets to prevent water intrusion. Does anyone know where to get them or what material you used to make them? Thanks... Miek
Hi Mike, Ivan beat me to it, but on the basis that too much information is better than too little, here are a couple of photos of the rear of 806 when I had it. I think I've got some of the light and fuel pump connections if they would be any help. Just PM me. The early style rear lights are from the Alfa Giulia Super, and the seals are not hard to find. I suspect however that you may have the late ones on 1928.....I bet they were borrowed from another Fiat or Alfa too and shouldn't be a big problem. Glad you are making good progress. All the best. Mark. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hello Mark... Excellent pictures!! Thank you so much... Your pictures confirmed what I thought I saw in the ones from Ivan, in that the front loom comes in underneath the connection bracket from the back! If you have any other pictures of any wiring, please post them here! It will be a big help to me, and probably others! Mike
Attached are two pictures of the fuse block to my Ghibli. I am thinking all the wires should be disconnected and the block as well as the connections cleaned up. So, questions are as follows: 1. Best way to separate the wires from the block? They have probably been on there since it was built! I don't want to break any of the tabs! 2. Best products/methods to clean up the block, copper connections and plastic block? 3. Any other tips? Thanks in advance! I am sure other people will find this useful! Mike Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Mike I think Acetone works as good as anything to clean up the fuse block. DO not use it on the connector as it will melt the plastic on them. For the wires and connectors I use regular paint thinner which is much less aggressive. For the contacts I have been using a industrial product called KOPR- Shield. made by Thomas &Betts. I have just purchased a product called DeoxIT. It is a two part kit that de oxidizes the surface and then there is a coating to prevent oxidation and enhance conductance. This product was discussed in the Ferrari section. I really bought this to rebuild the switches in my Mistral. When removing the connectors be careful of the connectors. THey are very difficult to find the original parts. THe tabs on the fuse block are quite robust and should not break unless they have been overheated.
New question for the group... Hope someone can help!!! Received a bunch of parts for my '72 Ghibli SS.. Among them was a new Bonaldi Brake Booster, probably rebuilt but can't be sure. When comparing the one that came out of the car with the one I got, I noticed something that I am not sure about, and the parts manual is not much help! Looking down into the new booster from the cockpit (interior) side, I see a bunch of wound coils, like a spring, distorted from being compressed too much. When looking down the same hole of the booster that came out of the car I do not see this. It appears these coils are wound towards the outside of the booster. Not the best pictures, but the first is from what came out of the car, while the second is the new one. Any thoughts on this? I don't want to install a new one with issues, just to have to go back and take it out! Thanks for any help! Mike Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The spring location definitely does not look right and I would not install it yet. See what you can feel for the proper location for the spring inside the hole of the original booster… ...From other brake boosters I've dealt with, that spring or even just the base of the spring needs to get pushed sideways into it's proper alignment around the center of the hole. If you do that, the spring will "seat" around the hole more properly. Do you know what I mean? That might resolve the problem completely, and with your own mechanical knowledge of the system see if that makes sense. The master cylinder's actuator shaft goes right in the middle of that hole, correct? I can't explain the operation other than - The spring pushes back inside the booster's housing, maintaining residual pressure on the brake pedal.? So the spring needs to be there, it's just not aligned correctly. Best of luck, - Art PS - do a Google Images search for "brake booster exploded view" to get better diagrams. Here is a cross section from a classic Corvette booster. You see where the coiled spring is "seated" around the hole.… http://www.corvette-restoration.com/photos/power_brake_booster_removal/power_brake_booster_schematic_2_large.jpg
Hi Mike, I got my car from painter, and empty shell waits in garage, my back problems have delayed starting rebuild, much better now, maybe soon... My original booster is quite rusty, so I bought other one from eBay, had it plated, then tried to put it together, which is difficult, finally stopped when noticed that bolt pattern to fix it to aluminium carrier is wrong, because it is for Ferrari! Spring inside is long, but it is also quite soft, it can be pressed to floor by hand, I suggest that to try carefully to turn spring's inner end to correct position by suitable bar, as there isn't much structure in plastic part that can stop spying end to move. If this is not possible, then the booster must be opened. Regards, Juha Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hello Gene , Art , Juha.... Thank you is in order for all your responses, help, and assistance! Gene: For the advice on restoring the wiring and fuse box, and for the e-mails on parts! You have a wealth of knowledge! We need to hear more from you! Art: I follow your Bora thread, and always enjoy reading it! Thank you for confirming what what I suspected! And yes, the cylinder actuator shaft does go down the middle of that hole. I will have to investigate the seal for that hole! Juha: They say a picture is worth a thousand words! In this case that is so true, so thank you so much for the pictures. With Art's schematic link and your pictures, it doubly confirmed something isn't quite right here. Please, please keep us informed on your Ghibli progress! What color is the car? Based on Art's and Juha's help, I contacted the vendor of the booster, and they confirm something doesn't look quite right. They are contacting the rebuilder who built this unit, and will get back to me. They have been extremely helpful! I will keep you all posted! Mike
Update on the Brake Booster + New Questions! The issue with the Brake Booster appears to have been resolved. I heard back from the vendor and the rebuilder of this booster recommended sticking a finger and pushing the spring coils back in place! I did and this apparently worked! Thanks again to Art and Juha! I will now have to check on the seal for the actuator shaft which goes into the hole of the booster. Mine came out but doesn't look to good. Now a word of advice: When buying a new Brake Booster and returning the old one as for core exchange, remember to remove the vacuum hose fitting from the old booster. The new ones may not come with one. Don't ask me how I know!
I am now turning some attention to the cooling fans and shroud. You can see by the attached picture one of the round sections of the shroud does not look to good. In fact, it looks terrible, and whoever did the repair, did a very poor job. Even the weld is terrible. I will be taking this to by body guy to get it straightened out! The next two pictures are of one of the two fan units for the car. These are Bosch fans. A while ago (translated - a few years ago), I used one of the Ghibli's fans for my Khamsin when one of its fans gave out. So this left me with one fan for the Ghibli. As you also see, it doesn't look to good either. The blades look a little chewed up around the edges, and this probably has something to do with why the one section of the shroud is messed up (previous paragraph)... I will be looking for replacements for the two fans. I would think these should be readily available. I have checked e-bay, and have seen some come through, but they seemed a little underwhelming. So, does anybody have a source for these fans? Thanks.. Mike Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Update on the fans..... No hints or leads so far.. I did find one on e-bay that is indicated as being for a Bora, but I think the price of $184 is a little too high.. I did note that the cooling fans from a BMW 2002 look awfully similar, but not 100% sure... I have decided to let my local alternator and starter shop have a shot at the ruined one.. If they can fix it, I will have them refurb- ish the other one. But I will still need a plastic fan blade housing! Anybody have a broken old fan motor, but a good plastic fan blade housing? Mike
Have you Googled the Bosch part number on the fan(s)? I can almost make them out in the photo. Otherwise, I have a hunch you are on the right track with the alternator shop: The fan motors should be refurbishable by someone with a bit of gumption. (My '82 Alfa GTV6 fan motors were running poorly, getting hot & squealing. They came apart with some care, I cleaned them up, relubricated the scintillated steel bushings, got new brushes from I-don't-know-where and they run well). Best, - Art
Mike I believe most of the fans were made by Spal. They are still in business and have many distrubuters as well as listings on ebay. There should be a name and maybe a number on the motor if you clean it up a little
Hello Art / Gene... Thank you for your help... The back of both fan motors indicate they are Bosch units. I did search by the number, if I recall correctly, but didn't find anything very useful.. Right now, I have one of the motors at my local alternator shop and they indicate they should be able to repair it. I will keep you all informed of this. I tried to find a picture of what color the fan motors should be. The plastic fan blade housing is black.. But I couldn't determine what color the motors themselves should be. Does anyone have a picture of these installed on their car? It could be very helpful to me! Thanks... Mike
Mike the Bosch fans were also used on some of the Q Port III. I do not know if they are the same but it may be another sourse for you
Mike If they are late ones they are SAAB fan units the same as used on the Khamsin Image Unavailable, Please Login
Gene / Graeme.... Thank you for the responses! I believe you are both correct! I did some research this past weekend, while suffering with a head cold. The Bosch fans were/are used on the QP III model as Gene indicates. Funny though, I looked at my 1982 QPIII and see Spal fans. My guess is that the original Bosch fans were replaced by these Spal fans at some time. The Saab fans are interesting. It looks like Saab Part # 8594806 could be a direct replacement for these fans. Graeme: Can you confirm the Saab part number that was used on you Khamsin? These also appear to be available, via re-manufacturing. The original Bosch motor number on these fans is 0 180 701 005. If the Saab fans were to fit, how bad would that be in terms of originality? Any thoughts? Mike
Still working on a fan resolution for my Ghibli, but that isn't critical right now. Plus still need to take the fan housing/shroud to my body guy to straighten it out. But now for fun. As I am stilling going through and cleaning hardware, parts, etc.. And since I have new exhaust manifolds for the car, I though I should clean up the exhaust manifold nuts. I let the parts shown below soak in parts cleaner, and then cleaned them up with a wire wheel. In some cases the entire stud came out with the nut when I was removing them from the engine and rust has fused the nut to the stud. But one of the nuts was not even correct. Can you find it? Not to hard is it! I will need to find some replacement nuts, and may just replace them all.. Question is, these appear to be brass nuts, so why did they use brass? Is steel and/or stainless steel an acceptable replacement? Mike Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hi Mike. If you want original brass, McGrath Maserati in the UK have a set on eBay with this item number 190779007797 Very reputable seller indeed. £34 plus shipping , so about $50. I suppose the brass was not supposed to seize onto the stud as readily. Regards. Mark.
Mike, The reference came from a good friend who at 87 has had more cars than most of us have had breakfasts, he told me that they are the same as the SAAB units.
Hi Mike, These are my fans, motors are silver zinc plated. You asked colour of my car, it is Blu Sera from Spies Hecker, in phone photo I sent it looks too green, I am quite happy with colour, but will see it in sunshine later... Do you know how Bosch ignition box is installed at front of the car, I think there should be some kind of bracket that I am missing? Also, do you use some sound proof materials, inside and in engine bay? Most modern materials do look quite bad. Regards, Juha Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
