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Glidden Salchi Eurolac questions

Discussion in '308/328' started by Smiles, Apr 22, 2005.

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  1. Smiles

    Smiles F1 World Champ
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    #1 Smiles, Apr 22, 2005
    I remember reading in a book somewhere that in the fall (September?) of 1981 Ferraris were no longer using the Glidden Salchi laquers. Is that right?

    Was it called Erolac? Does anyone know what the primer material was, or what it was called? Did the color of the primer differ along with the color of the paint?

    Thanks in advance,

    --Matt
     
  2. Nuvolari

    Nuvolari F1 Veteran
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    #2 Nuvolari, Apr 23, 2005
    You are correct. It was in late 80 or 81 (knowing Ferrari it is when whatever paint on the shelf ran out) that they changed from Lacquer to Glasurit Polurethane Enamel. With regards to the nature of the primer and substrates I cannot comment. The only thing I can assume is that the entire finish system was provided by Glidden Salchi but that is only an educated guess. What I do know is that the colour of the primers dd vary. Pink being used for red and light yellow for all other colours. Good luck finding information on the topic.
     
  3. Smiles

    Smiles F1 World Champ
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    #3 Smiles, Apr 23, 2005
    Thanks for the reply, Robert, and for the wishes of good luck in finding more information.

    This question was posted for help with my father's 308. The paint, as usual on these original cars, is badly cracked, although the primer showing through looks to be in quite good condition. The paint color is a medium grey, although the primer looks nearly white. It's almost definitely original.

    Any further information on Glidden Salchi lacquer would be very much appreciated.

    Thanks again,

    Matt
     
  4. Dave

    Dave F1 Rookie

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    #4 Dave, Apr 23, 2005
    The primer used on early red cars was not pink.
    The cars were all shot with a high build yellow filler primer to fill in all the uneven areas of the body, which was still hand fitted back then.
    And then flashed with a white sealer.
    Most of the problems with the Eurolac finish cracking and crazing is because of an incompatibility between the primer and finish paint,
    which contracted and expanded at different rates.
     
  5. Smiles

    Smiles F1 World Champ
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    #5 Smiles, Apr 23, 2005
    Thank you very much, Dave, for your post.

    The white sealer must be what I'm seeing beneath the cracks and crazing.

    I would really like to knock the paint down to that sealer. There's no reason to re-do the factory's high-build primer and other body work, is there?

    Could you (or anyone else) recommend the best way to take the paint down to the sealer coat? Sanding would work; but it would be easier if I could use a lacquer thinner, or another chemical process, to remove the old paint and still preserve the sealer.

    Any helpful advice would be wonderful.
     
  6. Dave

    Dave F1 Rookie

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    #6 Dave, Apr 24, 2005
    Sanding is the best method.
    If leaving the original primer coats in place,
    then they must be sealed due to incompatibility with modern paints.
    If not sealed properly, you will have problems with bubbling a couple years down the road.
     
  7. Smiles

    Smiles F1 World Champ
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    #7 Smiles, Apr 24, 2005
    Thanks again, Dave. This is encouraging.

    I'm planning on using PPG products, and will seal with DP-90.

    What grit is agressive enough to remove the paint, but will leave a good tooth for the sealer? 220?

    Nulolari, where did you hear about the pink and yellow primers? Is that perhaps over fiberglass?
     
  8. Nuvolari

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    #8 Nuvolari, Apr 25, 2005
    The pink and yellow primers are used on the later cars with polyurethane enamel and base clear systems supplied by Glasurit. Upon re-reading my original post I realized that I mixed that information up. Sorry if this caused any confusion. Dave's information with regards to primers and surface prep is right on the money. I do however disagree in the prep required to re-finish a lacquer 308. Extensive research on this topic has led me to conclude that using the factory substrates is very risky for a new paint job. 30 year old paint technology is not what it is today and any paint finish has a life to it. I would only consider re-painting if I went down to bare metal and started from scratch. This way you are sure of the paint work and will have a durable finish to last many years to come.
     
  9. Dave

    Dave F1 Rookie

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    #9 Dave, Apr 25, 2005
    I agree with Robert,
    If it were my car I would go down to the metal.
    Having talked with PPG, they recommended a water born sealer over the original finish to inhibit incompatibility problems,
    but they would not guarantee the product.
    Also be aware that it can get on the expensive side of things to have a professional repaint done on a 308.
     

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