Good rear jacking point (floor jack)

Is there a particularly good place to lift the entire rear of the car with a floor jack? I'm talking about somewhere in the center of the rear that would let me lift both rear wheels at the same time. Thanks!

 

see my thread on a Harbor Freight jacking beam

but to summarize - you shouldn't use the cross-members for jacking the whole rear up at once.

 

+1 the rear end is heavy and the crossmembers aren't intended to be used as jack points. Your 3 main options are: 1. use a lift, 2. use a pair of floor jacks on both sides, 3. get a bar adapter as shown in the linked thread above

 

Is the frame rail the jacking point from the side? Mine didn't come with a manual!

 

The manual wouldn't help, the factory jack points are actually only meant for one side at a time, such as changing a flat. Yes, anywhere along the main inner frame rails is fine for the jacks and jack stands.

This thread has some helpful info:

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/308-328/199069-308-jacking-points.html

While the diagram is useful for seeing what the shape of the frame is, I don't agree with the red spots being the only safe ones. I just go for anywhere along the 2 inner rails, front or rear. They're quite sturdy.

 

I found this to be particulary interesting feat last week.

I used the rear sway bar bushing, then fit wooden blocks under frame. After that, I switched the floor jack to the frame (which then had enough clearance to place underneath the frame and raise higher to put more blocks underneath.. It was a process but seemed to work.

 

+1 The sway bar (the centre of it, obviously) can easily take the strain until you put axle stands or blocks at the proper points. Local shop does that, too, when a brief inspection is needed and no lift is available. No detrimental effect. Just don't do any extended work with it like that.

 

I always jack mine in the middle of the cross member which is to the rear of the transmission. This is easily strong enough. Then when high enough place axle stands under the rear ends of the longitudinal frame members.

There is no way I would even think about jacking it on the swaybar!

Jacking the rear is easy, the problem comes on a RHD car at the front. When using the "2 jack method" On the right hand side the only point to place a jack is where the cover panel for the pedal mechanism is located so its virtually impossible to avoid damaging this panel with the jack.

 

+1 on both

 

Not sure if this is correct or not, but I do the same: floor jack to the cross member, and jack stands on each frame rail.
It's not on the cross member for more than 1 minute before I can slide the jack stands under the car.

I hope someone would chime in and say if this is ok or not.
I can't imaging lifting each side of the car, one by one, pinching your tires, etc is a better plan.
The 'strain' is significantly longer in the latter situation.

What do I know...


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(which means I am probably sitting by the car, confused.)

 

Doesn't sound like anyone is murdering their frame.. I think we're good here!

Hopefully, no one has to do this on a regular basis to where they become experts. That is my prayer for each of us!

 

Thanks for the replies, I really appreciate it. Once upon a time I jacked a 280Z from the wrong place and the quarter panel buckled in, which was an experience that I didn't want to repeat just to change a tire!!!!

 

Actually, I believe there was a forum member who had their crossmember buckle. I believe the post was this year, though I'm not 100%. A search might bring it up.

 

What about something like a 2X4 to spread the load?
The jacking beam is awesome but, with a 2X4, you can still slide the jack stands under the wood and just remove the floor jack...?


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I would agree.

 

I thought this, too, Andy. It flexes, which seems scary, but it will easily deal with the tension applied. I hesitate to trust my very misty structural engineering knowledge, but if it's ok for a reputable specialist to do, it's ok for me too.

 

Google the flexibility and breaking point of the wood first.
It depends on cut, type, and grade.
I've seen number like 300-400lbs.

If that's true, I wouldn't trust it.

Just use the metal bars in the links above for jacking up the whole back end. IMHO - your safer.

 

a 2x4 is fine to spread the load across the rear motor subframe. I agree with others that you could probably get away with a floor jack in the center of the bar but adding 1-2 foot long 2x4 even laid flat cuts the point load on the metal box beam by 2-4 times. The back of the car weighs around 1500 pounds. Not really that much all in all. A 2x4 in compression is good for many times that. I wouldn't try to span to the side frames with a 2x4 and expect good things to happen but just using one to spread the forces out along the cross beam. more than reasonable.

 

Speaking of jacks, the all-aluminium Arcan jacks from Costco are perfect for these cars. When I bought one I immediately went back and bought another one! Great purchase. They even go under the 355 jacking points which are lower than 3x8.

 

I use a 4x4 that spans the 2 frame members . Put the jack in the middle and the whole car lifts pretty easily.

 

I've seen a couple people post 4x4 is fine.
But I wouldn't trust a 2x4.

 

I don't see how a floor jack + 4" of wood would fit under the car.

I could be totally wrong.

Obviously, the thicker wood would be better... if it fits.


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(Which means I am probably sitting by the car, confused.)