Got 1211, Lambda regulation additive valve for self adaptation. Could someone translate this in to ENGLISH? And code 1121, RPM Sensor, ok so what about it? Is this something to be concerned about? I got the codes with the car NOT running, but key in the first position to give me power to run computer. Took car for a 12 mile ride, after 2 miles Check Engine light 1/4 came on for about 200 feet of travel, then it went off, then came back on for another 300 feet of travel, then went off and stayed off for the remaining 9 miles. So what is your opinion of these codes and the severity of them?
That would have been my guess!!! I pulled the same ones when I got my car...RPM sensor is normal, it means the car isn't on...which you already know...Lambda Sensor is the O2 sensor in english...These are notorious for having bad grounds....What I did was wire my own ground around the O2 sensor...I did a thread on this...I will see if I can find it. This could be from bad contacts in the ECU or bad contacts where the o2 sensors plug in, a bad o2 sensor, or a bad ground on the o2...Try the ground first..since it will cost you about $6 in parts and do the contact cleaning also...
Here is the thread that I started basically asking the same thing... http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38394&highlight=lambda+regulation Another thread.... http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40135&highlight=lambda+regulation
In this pic...the O2 sensor is labeled as 35....It screws into your catalitic converters which connector to your muffler. The O2 sensors screw in from the top of the catalytic converter Image Unavailable, Please Login
Ok the only thing I've grasped so far is you said muffler, those are those hot things sticking out of the back of the car, that part I can handle. Now moving from the muffler tips that I can locate, and heading towards the nose of the car, where would I find these other parts? Basically how deep in from the rear most part of the vehicle are we talking? I was a finance major, cars either go put put or they don't in my world so I am trying to learn.
Accounting major here...so I understand...going back from the muffler tips (if your under the car) is the muffler can....in front of that (going towar the nose) is the catalytic converters...they are bolted into the muffler by two long screws and nuts...they kinda resemble a small football (in my opinion) in size and shape...Those then bolt into your manifolds which spread real wide (almost look like wings on an airplane). The catalytic converter is what the O2 sensor screws into...you wont be able to see it from underneath though you will see the only other thing screwed into the cats, the thermocoupler sensors which look like coat hanger thin metal. The o2 sensors can be seen if you are looking down through your decklid. o2 sensors are the same basic shape and size as a shotgun shell. I'm sure Milt will come to the rescue soon with his pool cue! Otherwise ernie or daniel or one of these guys will put a pic up
"Lambda" is an obscure technical reference to the very small voltage curve given off by either the O2 sensor or by your MAFs. It probably just means that one of your O2 sensors has a bad ground connection or that your O2 sensor needs to be replaced (generic part is available at Pep Boys, AutoZone, Napa, etc.). Some people just clean the O2 ground connections or add an extra ground connection via a new cable. You can swap the O2 sensors from the right side of your engine to the left side and vice versa. If your computer code then switches from one check engine light to the other, then it's your O2 sensor. If the computer code stays on the same check engine light, then it's your ground conection.
Open the engine cover. Now look at the air box (the thing that says Ferrari on it jk). Look down in front of the tube going to the air box, and between the shock tower. Look down between those two and you'll see the cat.
Ok I found them. It is a wire going into a shotgun shell looking piece that screws into the cat. I can not get the shotgun shell looking thing to budge, it looks to be 12 years rusted into place. I suspect my adjustible wrench is not helping and I will go to Sears tomorrow AM to pick up a set of metric box wrenches. Still I have doubs it is going to jump loose, so maybe I need to hit it with a softening agent first, Liquid Wrench?
Hahahahaaa. You found the O2 sensor, good job. Shot gun shell, oh that was a good laugh. It is a good idea to soak it with the Liquid Wrench or WD40.
terminology courtesy of the ol' tmobilizer... yeah, soak it with some liquid wrench...the nut you need to turn is at the bottom of the sensor.
Joe - Get something called "PB Blaster" and spray it on the nut. Let it sit for a few hours, and it should penetrate just fine. The O2 Sensors can then be removed. While you're at it, check out this thread and where I applied Stabilant in my car: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=58847&highlight=junkies P.S. In all your detail/cleaning stuff, did you wash the engine?
No the engine was spotless, I think someone else hit it with Gunk and the pressure washer, like the dealership.
If my memory serves me correctly, I don't think you'll be able to get a box end wrench over the sensor because of the elec. connector plug..
No disrespect but let's say you break the Os sensor or strip the threads on the cat you are screwed , The car is under warranty let the pro's handle it . and O2 sensor code will not leave you stranded .
I have the green light to do it myself, it saves them having to send a flatbed twice 50 miles each way, it is cheaper for them and easier for me if I can do it myself instead of dedicating a day of my life and 100 miles to go to them, not to mention the $15.00 in gas. The part is so cheap it is a no brainer for everyone if I can do it, if it is stuck and I can not, then I can not. I will be using the OPEN end of the wrench of course.
I had a code for a Lambda Sensor. As it turned out, I had a leak in one of the hoses through which air runs to the engine. I don't rememeber exactly what they said and my ability to explain it is poor, but I remember the tech saying he pressurized the air flow and found an air leak. I don't know if that helps... maybe our experts can elaborate on what I'm trying to say.
