Got no oil pressure, tacho,water temp, fuel level, water temp!!!

Hi everyone,
Did the C11 amendment due to warm start, bypassed (as well as jumped)the white wire to bypass the ci rcuit board, 6mm spade connector on the white wire to the solenoid. Started her up and all good but noticed the readings on tacho, water temp, oil pressure, fuel guage (tank shows full but on refill before mods) showing nil! The water temp came up to where the overflow was a spittin' but no thermo's kicked in. Checked all the C11 conns, went deeper into the wiring diagrams; seems the green/ white stripe cable may be a player in the scenario at the dash cluster?
I changed all the connectors in C11, male/female matched and checked color codes on wires per socket line up.
She starts, she idles into 900 after 30 secs, is a tad rich but, cannot risk a drive without sussing this issue out before.She starts when warm without issue so I have a partial win!
It's buggin me not to drive her!
Suggestions?

 

Thanks for responding Steve,
will get onto that straight away and report back.

 

Hi Steve!
We have lift-off; it was the fuse #22, recurrent blowing and the culprit was a short to earth through the radio. Before the diagnostics began, after the lack of total gauge response; I checked every fuse across the pins and all good..... should have repeated AFTER the gauge problem!
Thanks for yr assistance in making the seemingly complex a lot simpler
Much appreciated
Pete

 

[QUOTE="S However, still a little worried about your report of "overflow was a spittin' but no thermo's kicked in.". You might want to confirm/deny if both water radiator fans are running when they should (although this will have nothing to do with fuse #22).[/QUOTE]
Well!
the fuse was a short lived victory, blew another 2 before I checked the S relay(good) Upon comparing the filament of the 7.5 fuses I had as standby, to the 7.5 spares in the car, it looked less robust so I opted for my last original 7.5, switched off the isolator switch, no key in ignition and the fuel pumps arced up on their own!
This is a new one to me as they have been txt book since day !1 I have yet to have it running long enough to check the kick in for the fans. gonna be a long night by the look!!
Cheers
Pete

 

apologies for the 'Australianism' description; especially so in ref. to power/fuse boards!!!
I came across a comment you made in another thread/topic regarding the "physical force in removing relays can awaken gremlins" I can embrace that; considering how reluctant they are to leave the sockets.
The fuse board has had the thermo fan and the fuel pump cables re-routed from the pin contacts as per Rob Haydens modification and they have performed without fault up until now.... may have to look a little deeper there.

 

Hi Steve
Following up on the ongoing puzzle..(cannot believe it was back in MAY!)

Just to recap the foregoing incidents in May.
Initially, I had a recurring blowing of fuse #22, caused by a loose stereo power wire. The dash instruments did not function due to that. Replaced the fuse and the instruments were functioning. However upon switching the battery isolator off (connecting the earth); the fuel pumps started operating with no key in the ignition!
Up until this point, the pumps had operated as per normal no sound until the key went to start position and shut down after key switched to off. No pumps on Acc.

I have swapped the 101 relays from other positions: nil change. I have attempted to trace the latent power source triggering both relays to operate(R&T) assuming that could be the possible cause..I could not make a definite conclusion based on outcomes though.
I have removed the tachometric relay(26) from its plug and noted the status of the terminals in same at battery connected, ACC and start with readings noted on terminal socket #'s 87, 30,50,15 and 31.
I have traced all occurrences on the wiring diagrams of item 49(electronic speed indicator) which triggers the correct sequence of events...just to locate and check it. I have not been successful in locating it thus far though, I got as far as C7 connector in the pass footwell -pos.11 Black w.Brown stripe where it leads from there to item 49 I am at a loss.
Another item sourced in the 26 connector plug on terminal 15 is the power for the passive belts if I am not mistaken....these are currently not functioning and ceased doing so at about the same time as the Fpump issue (from memory) They also displayed no dysfunction at all.

The upside of all of this of course is a more intimate acquaintance with the WD's and the connections thereon. I am challenged though with some of the abbreviations and the meaning of same.

Any ideas or tests you could suggest would be most humbly honored by my part fried synapses.
Your worshipful minion
Pete K

 

Hi Steve,
The pumps do not operate with the Taco relay removed.

 

Hi Steve,
ok, took the measurements and here are the results-
Tacho relay unplugged male terminal 30 - male terminal 87 - open circuit (1-)

relay socket "key off"
1/ red (30) - black(31) - 0 VDC
2/ blue/blck (15) - black (31) 12.5VDC
3/ wht/blue (50) -black(31) 12.5VDC

relay socket "key on"
1/ red(30) - black (31) 0VDC
2/ blue/blck (15) - black (31) 0VDC
3/ wht/blue (50) -black(31) 12.5VDC

I took images of the test, just waiting for upgrade to be approved to upload them.

cheers Steve
Pete K.

 

Attached are the images of test

 

7. With key "off", measure the voltage between the black (31) wire in the tachometric relay socket and the negative battery terminal = should be 0 VDC > 12 VDC
8. With key "off", measure the voltage between the red (30) wire in the relay socket and the negative battery terminal = should be +12 VDC > 12 VDC

Did you do anything with the ground connections in the passenger footwell when resolving "the culprit was a short to earth through the radio" issue? > No, all in the area of the upper dash radio cavity... looking deeper though; as I had the footwell plate off to access the c4-c8 connectors, the daisy chain connector had seven of 8 lugs connected, all black and dangling free!
Assuming this could be the poss/prob cause; I tested all assuming one was a 'master earth' arrangement.. nup! unattached; they all had current of varying levels in them. Looking closer at the pressing, I saw evidence of something broken off; exposing the brass under the zinc plate. It must have had a tab on it...(confirmed by Rob Hayden) so i did the next best thing.. pop rivetted it to the C4-C8 mounting brace( which is bolted to the frame)
Moving back to the fuse panel, with all of the earth connectors secure in the footwell, I reconnected the tacho relay, connected power and No Pumps operating, key off, nil with key on as well.
The mouse belts came to life, the drivers side was cycling forward, buzzer sound, then back- repeat.. I am not bothered with that right now; just pretty happy I am on the right track. Totally wasted from testing every connection on the fuse board from F1- P77 and all inbetween. Nothing unto wards happening there...2.5 days of concentrated effort to achieve a zero result was what I wanted as opposed to a sheet full of highlited terminals that should not be on the radar.
Tomorrow is another day, and one with a tad more sunshine about it thanks to yr input Steve. It has also made me look deeper and more focussed at what is before my failing eyes and along the way becoming more confident (not too much) in Fcar electronics. I am not closing this episode; merely throwing the shutters wide to shed light on the still unsolved small issues.

 

I have a feeling that the missing 1of 7 earth wires is the culprit for the whack-a-mouse cycling..top of the list for tomorrow.

 

No Steve; the
car is totally intact and unmolested. I am currently scrolling through the images of the footwell area; taken when I changed all the water hoses through the tunnel 2.5 yrs back. That was the last time the footwell area was accessed. This issue has only surfaced in May after the #22 fuse issue was resolved(post#8)
Will be looking closer in the footwell today for remnants of the attaching lug off the spade multi connector as well as any other loose wires without a home.

 

Tim,
thanks for the pics! I had a few nagging thoughts about the few wires that have insulators on them... but as I see, no problem!
Do you have all 8 spades connected? I only have seven that are obvious(black).
"I also can't understand how you didn't have a multitude of issues with that bracket not being grounded." agreed! All I can assume is that it was in such close proximity with the connector mount bracket, that it had physical contact. That assumption has been discarded permanently!
Cheers
Pete K.