How does this sound? Put the whole assembly in the oven at 200 degrees for 15 minutes and then apply some cold to the injector to shrink it a little. Remember to have the hot pot holder gloves ready for removal from the oven. Also this wil most likely upset the person who uses the oven because the caustic smells from the process will linger in the oven so you may need to clean it afterwards. Use caution to not freeze the cast aluminum part, only the steel? injectors. If this is non-sense someone please speak up because thats how I would approach this problem, after the continued soaking of penetrants failed. Admittedly I am not familiar with the assembly so my suggestion may not make sense for reasons unknown to me. http://www.loctitefreezeandrelease.com/
Yes, a flare wrench. That's what is actually opening enough to go around the 14mm line. Crazy, but I'm putting a lot of pressure on it. Maybe a snap on version wouldn't do that.
Check out the old one, I don't think it was going to last much longer. Luckily I found this before it broke, would have been kind of a problem if it happened while driving around. It's easy to reinstall, there are two hard lines that contain the cable. One curves around behind the motor, then there's open space under the car, then another hard line about even with the middle of the seat that carries it up to the pedal. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Why have I never seen this thread? Anyway I like what you did with the bumpers. Did you have any holes in the front from people installing various license plates? What did you use as a filler?
nope, no bumper holes luckily. Last project for the winter is the shifter. I finally figured out that the play and clunk in my shifter was the shift box itself, not the transmission. If I held pressure up or down on the shift rod with my hand while shifting, it was perfectly smooth. Today I removed the whole assembly. Here's a pic of the problem, you can see the oblong hole in the last pic. The case bottom has been worn about .065" over time. When the lever is moved fore or aft, the shaft hits against the top and bottom of the case halves. Not totally sure how I'm going to fix this, I'll be making some sort of sleeve I think to get it tight again. I suppose I could just weld some more metal on it and start over again. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I finally got it, managed to only ruin one of them. Based on how rusted the threads were, I'm happy with that. In order to get them loose, I pushed the injectors out of the manifold with the lines still attached. Then I filled a glass full of PB Blaster and dunked the ends of the lines and injectors into the glass. I let that sit for a couple days soaking in the Blaster. Then I put the injectors in a vise, sprayed the injector with some kind of freeze rust spray junk, and put the longest lever I could on a closed end 14mm wrench. Two of them broke loose easy and were fine. One was pretty bad and got the threads messed up, but I managed to fix it with my homemade tap. The last one was the worst and the fuel line nut actually broke in half as I was trying to turn it. My camera isn't the best, but here's a pic. Now I just need to figure out how to get this one line replaced and I can get it back together with fresh injectors. Thanks for the help guys. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Slow going trying to fix the fuel line.... I think Verrel is coming through with an 'unobtanium' part. This week I'm planning to repair the shifter case, fix the mangled fuel line, and sandblast the manifolds. No amount of chemicals can get them clean. I got some new graphics for Christmas. New paint sticker modified to have my correct paint code. Windshield sticker. it's hard to see from the pic since it's still on the backing, I'll take another shot when it's on the glass. Finally, my son's new Tonka, the best Christmas present ever. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Repaired the shifter today. I milled .058 inches from the top of the bottom half of one end of the case to take up the slop at the rear hole. I figure I can do this about 3 more times before I have to think of a new fix....should be good for a hundred years or so. Moves perfectly smooth now. If anyone is looking for a way to spend an afternoon with some preventative 308 maintenance, get access to your shifter through the console and put some grease on the back end of the case. Mine was working metal on metal for quite a while and some grease every few years would have stopped it. Also pictured is my sandblased injector manifold. It's the only way I could get the grime off. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Wow, I've been reading this thread on and off as I could all day today. You do great work! By, my gosh, how do you find the time?! I'm jealous... Rick
Thanks Rick, I work for the government so I guess that's where the free time comes from. Nobody working for the government is working too hard. I kid, I kid.
I know what you mean; I work for a subcontractor to the government. But my stuff can't be brought in to the place Rick
My custom fuel part showed up today from Verrel. I had it installed about 10 minutes later. I think I can finally get the car back together now and back on the road. Heated the old end up with acetylene, removed the tip, installed the new (uncracked) nut. Then, some silver solder and the new tip is on ready to go. Really simple actually...assuming it doesn't leak or break off. Thanks Verrel! Image Unavailable, Please Login
started putting everything back together today. so far so good. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Wow Jason, amazing thread. I'm impressed with your skills and "go for it" attitude. You would do well running a restoration shop. Love your car!
It runs! Started it again for the first time in couple months. After all the stuff I've messed with I was half expecting it wouldn't start. Took a while cranking to get fuel back into all the lines, but it works again. Can't wait to get the coolant flushed and start driving again.
I have a question for you. What size rivet did you use on the 2 louvered plates that mount underneath the rear bumper/1/4 panel? Mine need a refinishing as well. Thanks
I re-finished mine recently and I believe the rivet size for the rear louvers behind the wheels was 1/8".
Thanks! It's one more item on my winter projects list. All new injectors fuel line clips new wires distributor seals refinished intake and TB new fuel, air and coolant hoses fuel filter Brakes in the spring
1/8th inch is right. I bought a couple different lengths, all from this ebay seller. They were great and already black. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Aluminum-pop-rivets-1-8x1-8-ABA42-100-each-BLACK-/390212446435?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item5ada7968e3#ht_500wt_722
