perfect. thanks
Finally got all the major stuff done and I could put on some decals I'd been saving up. Windshield sticker Paint code sticker High voltage warning Coolant sticker Emissions sticker The weather is beautiful in Vegas, low 70s and a great time to drive. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Great job Jason. Where did you get the paint sticker? My car (49719) ahouls have had one like yours on it (Blue Sera paint) but it is not there. I haven't been able to locate these anywhere. Enjoy the drive.
http://www.eurospares.co.uk/partTable.asp?M=1&Mo=725&A=1&B=43417&S= They didn't have the proper paint code for my car so I got a blank and had my graphic designer add it.
Intake tube decal, new window sticker (with correct printer holes and sticky tape), and new emissions windshield decal more correct for US cars. I have a couple other intake decals to try as well. My graphic designer wasn't totally sure what could withstand engine temps. This one was on a clear background, I have another on a white background that makes the colors darker. Hmm... Anyway, here are the pics. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
This graphic designer made one for me from nothing but old pics... [email protected] He's made quite a few decals and such for my car. Great stuff.
My gas pedal was messed up and I couldn't figure out quite why. It didn't line up with the other pedals and required me to push with my toe in order to get full throttle. It also wouldn't return to idle properly all the time and the carpet being in the way wasn't the problem. It was obvious when removed, the metal was just too thin and things had gotten all bent over time. The pedal looks as if it were made to work for about 5K miles. I really can't believe they hadn't made it more substantial by this point of the 308 production run. So, I welded a support plate to the back of the actual pedal and also a couple steel supports onto the base to keep everything solid. I also didn't have quite enough adjustment in my cable ends to make everything work properly. So, I drilled another hole in the clevis at the end of the pedal side to take up the additional slack in the cable. What a difference!! It's great now. anyone else had troulbe with theirs?? Image Unavailable, Please Login
So my front brakes have locked up 3 times in the last few weeks. It seems completely random as to what causes it, but all I have to do is loosen the brake line fitting at the MC that goes to the front brakes, let some brake fluid run out, and all is well. Somehow I think the MC is sticking, but it's brand new! and expensive! It's only happened since I installed the new MC, the first time being the very next time I drove it. I'm going to remove it tonight and try to return it to be replaced. Sure like to avoid the feeling of driving down the road unable to stop braking. It's made for a couple interesting experiences, and it's awfully hard to enjoy the drive when I'm constantly wondering how much further I can go til the brakes lock up again. The supplier was Overstock Auto Parts selling on Ebay so I'll let you guys know how they stand up for their parts.
If returning it proves problematic, dis-assembly could prove productive. Also...could the proportioning valve cause this symptom? Who was the actual manufacturer of the master cylinder? I don't think I'd trust anyone but a well known manufacturer for brake products I'd put in my daily driver, much less a Ferrari. Rick
My belts started squeaking so I ordered a new set..searched on Fchat and found my car needs: Gates 11M925 for AC Gates 7M9000 for alternator/ water pump Obvious what the issues were. The old AC belt was all stretched out and even the adjustment couldn't take up the slack. The old alt belt wasn't the right size and wouldn't even sit down in the pulleys properly. I'm surprised it even worked as well as it did. Pretty easy to remove and install the alt belt, but the AC belt...what a pain. Requires removing the compressor mount to get the belt around it with not a lot of space to work. oh well, it's all good now. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
6 months or so ago I had the rear calipers rebuilt and sorted out the parking brake as well. At the time I couldn't bring myself to spend hundreds of dollars for pieces of steel cable so I bought a few odds and ends from Home Depot and built my own cables for about $10. The more I read stuff on here the more I realize if any of you saw that you'd be appalled. Over the past couple months I found all the parts here and there for good prices and finally got enough to put it all back together the way Ferrari so brilliantly designed it (kidding). First pic shows my Home Depot system, second is a comparison, and third is the proper Ferrari $200 cable. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Just got the master cylinder back today. It's marked BENDIX OE 133576. I ran a quick google search hoping I'd come up with a cross reference for some other car that had the same for $60 so I could pass it on you to all, but no luck. All I found were a few Ferrari parts houses at the regular F prices.
Pretty sure the master cylinder is the same as an Alfa Romeo 33 model...1984 onwards. I have a 1984 Alfa 33 and a 1984 QV gts.....the fluid reservoirs are exactly the same! I know the 33 was never sold in the USA but very common in Europe/UK and Australia and parts are cheap! Will help if I can! P
If you mean by locking up, that the pressure in the line to the front brake calipers is building over time, you may have a free play problem. If the MC cannot fully return, the piston inside will cover the return hole to the reservoir, preventing fluid from migrating back and over time, pressure in the line will build when the pedal is released. I would check pedal free play when you reinstall.
New master cylinder is no good either....I think. This time I can't build any brake pressure. Even after pumping the pedal repeatedly I can still push it all the way to the floor. The brakes just barely work at all. Sure feels like fluid is just squeezing right past the seals. I know you're all thinking I just don't know what I'm doing, you could be right. I've messed with hydraulics a bunch before on other cars and never had any trouble. You just connect the lines and bleed. There's really not much else to it that I know of. Today I'm going to try and reinstall my original master cylinder that was slowly going to the floor at stoplights and see if it works right compared to these new ones. If so, I'm going to have that OE one rebuilt with new seals. I'm so ready for this brake saga to be over.
So long as your previous cylinder is ok with no pitting you should have zero problem only replacing the seals. The seal kits are cheap too
Put my original master cylinder in again today. Success, at least it works like it did before and helps me be sure that: THE NEW MASTER CYLINDERS WERE BOTH DEFECTIVE. Here's the history: OEM master cylinder- slowly pushed down to floor when the brakes are held 15" first 'New' master cylinder- would lock the front brakes ocassionally = stuck car second 'New' master cylinder- mushy pedal no matter what OEM reinstalled- same as 3 months ago when this started My plan now- Send the OEM master cylinder to GoldLine brakes to have it rebuilt. I realize I could do it myself with seals assuming the metal is good, I don't even care. I want a trusted agent to do it right so this can be over! If he finds other problems, he can even put a new liner or piston in.
I rebuilt the master cylinder tonight with a seal kit from Ferrparts. I installed it as well, just need to bleed the system and try it out. I sure am nervous, this could be the end of this mess or..... You can see in the first picture how that rubber seal has a pretty nice chunk taken out of it. Maybe a little fluid leaking past that one, huh? Anyway, the rebuilding was pretty easy. A little tricky to figure out how to get the piston out of the master cylinder. The trick is to remove the screw underneath the rubber piece that goes between the reservoir and the master cylinder. you can see it in the 4th picture at the bottom. Hopefully tomorrow I can tell you how great it all works. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
