The coils have two terminals = terminal 1 and terminal 15. There usually are little molded "1" and "15" numbers on the coil body near the connections, but it's easy to identify terminal 15 becauase that's the one with the yellow wires connected to it per your 328 schematic.
I had a similar problem would start fine then shut it off then no start So it turned out to be two connectors that had a burned out connection one down in the pass foot well one was up behind the fuse panel I think you have to check these from time to time I found the problem when the car was running by jiggling the harnesses and connectors Best of luck I know it's frustrating
Thanks Steve spirot and Robbie. The only problem is, when the car is starting normally, as it did today, I'm unable to test for problems. It's a total crapshoot. Who knows, maybe tomorrow it won't start again and I can try to measure coil voltage like Steve recommended. Harrumph!! Greg
Well. I guess I've beat this horse dead through several pages on this thread. I'm back to where I started. The car is now starting as normal. I had to tow it home a couple days ago, and now it starts... What could possibly be causing something like this, on an intermittent basis? I know some of you would have me rip my alarm out, but frankly, the more I think about it, I'm going to wait. It appears to be a very clean install. I could cause more harm than good by tearing the dash and doors apart at this point. I think one good possibility could be a bad ignition switch, but seems weird that it works sometimes, and not others. I saw the suggestion to check under the dash for good connections on the connectors, did that, all looks well. The ignition switch is on BACK of the ignition key barrel, right? Pretty tough access to that area, but I'll get back there and have a look. I probably need to take the lower dash panel off, below the steering wheel to see that area better. I'm open to suggestions, guys! The alarm stays for now, however. Greg
Can you see under your dash where a wire has been cut and there is a relay between the two wires? If so, that added relay is more than likely related to your alarm and disengages your starter. You may be able to bypass the alarm by reconnecting the wires without the relay. If you do find it and can take a few pictures it would be helpful. In regards to your starting issue. I am wondering if you have a relay that is occasionally sticking or is on its way out.
Thanks Dan, I'll explore that. i also just noticed a little metal button mounted under the steering wheel, into the lower cowl panel. looks aftermarket. I'll bet its part of the alarm system; anybody know what it may be? maybe a siren kill? I'll test it asap, gone alot these days (professional musican, tis the season!) Greg Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2
I found something about how to reset your alarm if you are having trouble starting the car, that's assuming it's an alarm problem. It might be good for some future information. "There should be a RED Reset Button loated somewhere under your dash near where your knee sits when you drive. Push the RED button in and hold it while you start the vehicle."
Hmmm. there's a flashing red led light sticking out at the bottom of the driver's side windshield pillar. it seems to only flash after the alarm has been tripped. never tried to push it, didn't think it was a button. there is for sure a little metal button, i assume it's aftermarket, mounted into the lower steering wheel cowl, mentioned in my last post. I'll try your procedure next time this happens. GREAT information, thank you! Can you send a link to any possible info concerning my alarm system? Greg Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2
I know you said you want to keep it but get rid of that alarm and put it back to stock. I can't tell you how many cars I have worked on where the alarm was causing problems such as you describe. It is just adding parts/additional connections to the system that can fail and immobilize the car, regardless of how well it was installed initially - and typically it wasn't installed all that well though externally it may look as though it was. In addition to possible failure of alarm components, the standard connecters for most aftermarket alarms (and other equipment) that are supplied to splice into existing wiring is very poor - designed to be fast, not to be effective and trouble free. They often end up cutting some of the strands in the existing wire which effectively may reduce an oem 16 gauge wire to an 18 gauge wire...
I hear ya Mike . i have all next week off, time to deal with it.. Greg Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2
Well, for the past two days the car has started on the first crank, runs great. i pulled the kick and dash panels to have a look at the Mirage 9000 install, and it looks great. all the connections are high quality. to remove this thing would take a lot of effort and time. and, i may screw things up worse by digging deep into the car. At this point i highly doubt my alarm system is causing my woes. i believe it's something else. the times in the past I've had to wring its neck to start it, it felt like a fuel issue. i put a brand new Bosch fuel accumulator in 6 months ago, so i doubt it's that. again, once running it's strong and smooth. Late last week my inline spark tester showed no spark but that problem certainly does not exist this week!! the mystery continues... Greg Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2
Weird (intermittent) electrical stuff is usually connectors/wires. Wiggle wires and connectors to see if something is tickled. If the alarm system looks fine and you want to keep it, then keep it (wigglie its wires too). Keep tryin' and I know it's a *****.
after a week or so dealing with and thinking about this issue, I think I've figured it out (but I could be proven wrong!) The safety button mounted below the steering wheel as part of the alarm system, I think, is the key. When I enter the car after disarming, the alarm siren always goes off. Why, I have no idea. It takes 2 fob clicks to raise the door locks, then when I open the door, the siren goes off. With one more fob click, the siren stops, BUT a little red LED light mounted at the base of the left windshield pillar flashes wildly. I think what's going on at this moment, is the alarm is still activated, but the siren has been deactivated. It's been during this period (mostly?) that I had been trying to crank the engine over with no success. If I push the little hidden button below the steering wheel, the flashing light ceases, and the siren emits 2 tiny beeps. At this point, the car seems to be able to start. Even though, when cold for days, needs a few crank attempts, seemingly starved of fuel. Can anybody provide info regarding the purpose of the two buttons on the Mirage 9000 key fob? They are numbered 1 and 2. Seems like 1 is the one that does everything, not sure what 2 does, would like some advice on that. Also, can anybody confirm the hidden button is to disarm the alarm starter kill? Again, the starter has always cranked strong, but the engine would never start. I tested for spark recently during a no-start episode, and found none, so I suspect the Mirage cuts spark (not fuel) when triggered. I have searched far and wide for a Mirage 9000 manual, can't find one. I suspect it's from the late 80s-early 90s era. It's a fine install, very clean with high quality connectors, so I hope to not remove it. Thanks for all the advice given on this thread, and thanks in advance for any additional info forthcoming! Greg in Houston 87 328
OK, today the car will not start again. I pressed the hidden alarm bypass button (As discussed above) and the flashing alarm light stopped flashing. Cranks and cranks, won't start. Had my wife look at the inline spark tester during cranking, no spark whatsoever. This is not a fuel issue, it's a spark issue. This problem is random. I can start it on some days, not others. I do hear and feel the associated relays clicking during cranking, it's just not catching. Knowing it's most likely a spark issue, and also knowing that sometimes the car will start, and when it does, it runs like a champ, where should I look besides the alarm system? I don't believe that is the cause. Are there certain sensors that control cold start, that may be faulty? Greg 87 328
I know most of you think it's the alarm system, but I really don't believe it is, after living with the car for a year. This problem recently developed, like a sensor or module slowly failing. The mystery is, sometimes I can coax the car to start, other times I cannot. Ripping the alarm out will be very complex and possibly cause other problems. Besides, the hidden bypass button should "bypass" the alarm system anyway, all other things being equal. Pressing it DOES cause the flashing alarm trigger indicator light to go out along with 2 little beeps. I suppose if I knew the magic wire or fuse to pull to bypass the entire alarm system, I could isolate that as a possible cause, without having to pull the system out. I need to dig a bit deeper I suppose. I did pull a fuse panel tap wire thought to be the power source, but it didn't kill alarm power.. ?? Greg
Greg, There have been frequent posts regarding what you should test/check and it appears you have tested at least some of the suggested items based on your responses. I think it would be easier for the members if you post all of the systems you have checked and the results. That way "we" can disregard those systems and provide you with further direction.
OK here are the items I've checked: 1) all associated fuel system relays are clicking when key is cranking the starter. 2) the alarm system connections all look great, and high quality. 3) the inline spark tester shows no spark, when the car is not starting. 4) When I'm cranking the starter, and it's not starting, I smell fuel. This has got to be a spark problem, not fuel. (I have occasionally depressed the gas pedal a bit during cranking, so I know I've flooded it a bit at times, but I stopped doing that. A FI car shouldn't need the gas pedal depressed to "prime" the system.) 5) I've NOT checked the flywheel sensors. Seems like those wouldn't be bad, because when the car starts, it runs great! 6) When I press the hidden alarm button (again, not exactly sure what it is), the flashing alarm trigger light goes out, with a couple soft beeps. That's all I've done. I'm open to other suggestions. Maybe I need to look at the ignition module in the left rear trunk compartment. Thanks, Greg 87 328
We will get this resolved...eventually. Starting with the basics..is the battery ground lead solidly connected and clean? Did you test both banks with the inline spark tester?
I am having the same problem with my 85 308 QV. It starts when cold, but after running and driving for a while if I turn it off and try and start it cranks but won't fire. I have spark and fuel but no ignition. Have had it checked and it appears there is a draw on the system. I have added power door locks and think that is the problem. Have you added anything to your car recently? I also added an alarm system and will have that disconnected as well as the power door locks.
Pat, the first thing I would look at is the accumulator. Pull the small hose off the accumulator and if fuel comes out the accumulator should be replaced. This is common for non-starts when hot.
I had that checked also and was told that it was good. I remember that after the alarm, new speakers and power doorlocks were installed I have had a problem. I have 1000 miles on the new engine. All sensors have been replaced, relays checked, modules checked, new wires and plugs. So the alarm and door locks are going to be removed.
