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Head light manual pop up?

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by vlamgat, Mar 5, 2004.

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  1. vlamgat

    vlamgat Formula Junior

    Jan 9, 2004
    776
    #1 vlamgat, Mar 5, 2004
    I am trying to figure out how to keep my headlights up so that i can replace them. Its a 512 tr and the manual says that one has to disconnect the motor actuation rod and then rotate the manual drive shaft on the passenger side front wheel well. OK, where is the shaft to disconnect it? My peek inside the 2 inch diameter hole where the manual drive knob resides does not evidence such an beast. I have rotated the knob with the key and lights switched off, and after a number of turns, the lights cyle up and down without pausing. Is there another trick out there?

    anybody replaced their glow lamps masquerading as headlights under the surly supervision of DOT - yet? Ihave to believe that no one drives these cars at night given how few the comments are on lighting on this and other forums. but just maybe there is someone out there ... please.
     
  2. Chiaro_Slag

    Chiaro_Slag F1 Veteran

    Oct 31, 2003
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    Jerry
    #2 Chiaro_Slag, Mar 5, 2004
    Be careful - I have heard it is VERY easy to lose a finger if caught up in the headlights.

    For the 328, I had to disconnect the wiring to the lifting motors, then rotate the knob (many times) for the headlights to pop up.

    An easier trick I have used was to turn the headlights on and then disconnect the battery. :)
     
  3. WaltP

    WaltP Formula 3

    Nov 1, 2003
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    Walt P
    #3 WaltP, Mar 5, 2004
    I don't know if this will work for you but on my 308 I just turn the lights on, they pop up and change the bulbs then turn the lights off.
     
  4. Chiaro_Slag

    Chiaro_Slag F1 Veteran

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    Jerry
    #4 Chiaro_Slag, Mar 5, 2004
    I would disconnect the battery though for 2 reasons :

    1) Staring into a headlight isn't the funnest thing to do. :)

    2) You never know if the headlights might cycle and I like having 10 fingers - I would never play the guitar again (I don't play it now, but you get the idea).
     
  5. WaltP

    WaltP Formula 3

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    #5 WaltP, Mar 5, 2004
    Do the headlights have a history of cycling without a reason?? If so I was unaware and won't do that again!
     
  6. ChrisfromRI

    ChrisfromRI Karting

    Jan 28, 2003
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    Foster, RI
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    Chris F
    #6 ChrisfromRI, Mar 5, 2004
    I can just twist the stalk on my 308 QV and they pop up unlit with just the parking lights on, and they stay up fine (stalk in the top position, next one down turns on the lights, bottom position turns on the brights).

    BTW, 308s have a pigtail connector that is about 1 foot from the headlight connector itself, and under a rubber boot, so that the same wiring harness could be used with different headlight pigtails. My headlight brightness improved after cleaning and tightening these connections. You might check your 512 for this pigtail connection as well.

    I find that with sealed Wagner Xenon DOT replacements that my low beams are actually quite good, it's just the high beams that are not very good (a little dimmer up close than the lows are, and not really much better than the lows out in the distance). They are typical of sealed beam headlights from this era. I have a set of Hella reflectors with replaceable halogen bulbs to try next in my 308, but they're still on the shelf.

    The first car I owned with truly good OEM headlights was an '88 Saab 900, and back in 1988 everyone used to flash their brights at me and other Saab owners (even though our headlights were properly aimed by the factory/dealers) as they were noticeably brighter than other cars of the late 80's. By 1990 people stopped flashing their brights because many other cars now had better headlights too. I still own the car and its headlights seem a step behind my other more modern sedan.

    My modern S2000 Roadster has amazing projector beam HID headlights.

    Kind Regards, Chris
     

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  7. Chiaro_Slag

    Chiaro_Slag F1 Veteran

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    #7 Chiaro_Slag, Mar 5, 2004
    hehe, probably not - It's just so many people have told me about it (I think 4 now) it has me scared to death! Even my mechanic shuttered a bit when I was talking about it - I'm guessing with all the warnings, it has happenned before - Beter to be safe than sorry!
     
  8. WaltP

    WaltP Formula 3

    Nov 1, 2003
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    #8 WaltP, Mar 5, 2004
    Safer than sorry....you're right about that! Thanks
     
  9. vlamgat

    vlamgat Formula Junior

    Jan 9, 2004
    776
    #9 vlamgat, Mar 5, 2004
    Unfortunately I know more about lighting design and fabrication than anyone would want to know having owned (in part) the company that invented the halide lighting system and the first vehicle applications for BMW in the 80s.

    This car has 35/50W sealed beams. The technology is circa 1950s! So that's why I need to get them up so that I can replace them with the OEM Cibie units. They do not pop up as on the 3XX series by turning on the parking lights. Yo do need the second twirl of the stalk to get them to pop. I tried switching off the key as advised by the dealer who thought they would stay up but NOT.

    One possibility that no one has suggested is that I leave the lights switched on when I switch the key off - the go twirl the manual lift drive. My theory is that when the lamps pop up, the limit switch will be set to recognize that they are supposed to be on and that wills top them from promptly cycling back to the stowed position. So does anyone think that might work? Do the TR light motors work using limit switching devices and can they remain energized without ignition power?

    Is there a motor fuse that can get pulled when they are up? Is this another possibility akin to disconnecting the battery with the ignition and lights on? Probably not a good idea for the Motronic?

    Thanks for the input all but bulb chaning with the lights and ingnition on is not my idea of fun!
     
  10. Chiaro_Slag

    Chiaro_Slag F1 Veteran

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    #10 Chiaro_Slag, Mar 5, 2004
    My 328 manual says to specifically disconnect the wiring to the motors and then rotate the knob. It's the same on the F40. Maybe the same for yours?
     
  11. vlamgat

    vlamgat Formula Junior

    Jan 9, 2004
    776
    #11 vlamgat, Mar 5, 2004
    Actually mine says that I must disconnect the headlamp drive shaft. Only problem is I cant find it! I suspect its part of the manual drive knob that you turn to lift the lights but you need a very small Guiseppe hand to to get into that orofice!
     
  12. Chiaro_Slag

    Chiaro_Slag F1 Veteran

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    #12 Chiaro_Slag, Mar 5, 2004
    Funny - 2 weeks ago when trying to figure out mine, I was pissed at the owners manual. It simply said disconnect the wiring to the lifting motors. Ummm, how is an accountant like me suppossed to figure that out?? lol It took me a week. :(

    Dear Ferrari : A picture of the part in question is helpful. :)
     
  13. vlamgat

    vlamgat Formula Junior

    Jan 9, 2004
    776
    #13 vlamgat, Mar 6, 2004

    I solved the problem. Disconnect the battery using the switch provided and then crank each headlight up. Remembering to crank them down before switching on the ignition.

    Now to replace the glow worms!
     
  14. 512Professore

    512Professore Karting

    Feb 3, 2004
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    Brian Strasburg
    #14 512Professore, Mar 7, 2004
    vlamgt:

    Just that I would try to help out. Yes, the most effecient method of raising the headlights manually, is as you have discovered. Remove power via the battery cutt-off switch, then use the manual knobs as described, perform your work, then lower the light assembly manually, then restore power.

    As for the "glow worms" as you call them, I have replaced the low/hi beams(the outer most headlights) on my 512TR with excellent results. I used the standard 5.75 in. H4(55w/60w) units from Hella. Since the outer headlights act as both low and hi beams, in combination with the stock(factory) hi-beams, the result is much better. Yes, at times, I do drive mine at night. There is also a Hella hi-beam replacement as well, so you could replace both the inner and outer, and get rid of the crappy DOT sealed beams. There are also many choices for H4 and H1 bulbs, once the sealed beams are changed out.

    You can PM me, and I can supply part numbers, etc., or I can obtain the Hellas for you and ship to you.

    Keep the Rubber side down.....
    512Professore
     

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