Headlight Motor Coloured Wire? 89 Testarossa

Hi Paul, can't help you on that sorry but there are more than enough electricians here ...

Would you be so kind to send us some pics of your new fuseboard... we are very anxious to see something new ...

Flashing beam mode .... do we have that in the F car ... ? I only know that I have to turn the switch ....for permanent high-beam ...

 

Paul, my reference has P19 as the RH fuel pump position. From the wiring dias looks like there is an earth to both lifting motors that is black. The left hand motor has red striped black and the right hand is just red. Good luck.

 

I've never done such a figure showing the function of every wire in the white connectors, but will help if I can. First some questions:

1. What engine family F113A, F113A040, F113B?

2. If a RH drive GB version, do you have the DIM-DIP stuff?

3. What is your reference for "P19"? Robert Hayden posted some information on the internal layers, and P19 is the 4th position down in the c connector -- shown as for the AC condensor fan in this jpeg:
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Please clarify which connector (by letter label) and which position in that connector that you are interested in.

 

The engine family marking is on the top of the engine block at cylinder #6 (but since yours is a late UK RHD, and you have the jumper in the relay c position, I'm pretty sure that you'll find it is a GB version F113B, but please advise/confirm whatever it really is marked):
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You can get the F113B wiring diagram here:

www.ferraridatabase.com

(under Downloads, Other Manuals, EU F113B) However, I've just noticed that I mangled some of the scans (not full width) so I'm going to try to get those rescanned/resorted and resend them to Ben Deetman, but that might take a week, or two, to appear on his site. In the meantime, I'll have a quick look myself at the wiring diagram and see how we might investigate your symptoms.

 

Yes, not uncommon to find this sort of repair (with the relays extended out on wires) for both the fuel pumps and/or the water fan motors, but you might need some improvement here that wouldn't be difficult so let me ask some questions:

1. What type of Bosch relays are being used for the fuel pumps -- ...113 or ..101?

2. It looks like the +12V power is supplied (directly?) by the orange wires going to terminal 30 of each relay -- are those orange wires directly connected to the red wires in the top position of the w connector? If not, where are those orange wires connected? Is there a 20 amp fuse in series with each of those orange wires (there should be to be safe)?

 

I've had a fairly close look at the 459/86 F113B wiring diagram Fig 5 (GB version exterior lights), and I can find no single point of failure that would cause all the front parking lights to not work, but still let all the rear parking lights work. However, I want to be clear on the terminology -- what are called parking lights (or running lights) in the US are all the exterior lights (that are not the headlights) that come "on" when the light stalk knob is rotated "on". There are 2 parking light bulbs in each the front light assemblies and the rear light assemblies. Are you saying that both parking lights in each rear light assembly come "on" (and not just 1 in each) when the light stalk knob is rotated "on", but none of the parking lights in either of the front light assemblies come "on"?

With regard to the the "flashing" problem, that's maybe an easy fix. You have the wrong type of relay in the relay P position:
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Also, you seem to be completely missing relay U:
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This relay U controls the cold start injectors (during cold-starting and cold-running throttle blips). During warm-running, it is not used, so might not be causing you much grief, but don't see why you shouldn't have one (unless, like the fuel pump relays, it has been extended out on wires somewhere) -- and would think that cold-starting would be difficult without it.

The RH headlight pod not working can be more difficult to troubleshoot. The one easy thing that you can do is swap relay E and relay F -- if the trouble moves to the LH headlight pod (and the RH pod then works), one of those relays is bad; if the trouble stays on the RH pod...I don't want to go there

 

It's not the amperage rating that is different between the relay you presently have and the relay that you should have for relay P -- it's the configuration of the internal contacts. The Bosch 0332204101 is nothing special and you should be able to source an equivalent from another generic manufacturer easily at any auto parts store. Another equivalent for Bosch 0332204101 is Tyco V23234-A0001-X037. What you want for relay P is a relay with a 30 tab, an 85 tab, an 86 tab, an 87a tab, and an 87 tab (see the little internal schematic stamped into the outer case of one of your other Bosch 0332204101 relays -- they are the ones with the orange diagonal slash on the outer case). What you have in the relay P position is an equivalent ...113 relay with a 30 tab, an 85 tab, an 86 tab, and two 87 tabs (that are always connected together).

Sometimes a ...113 can be successfully substituted for a ...101 IF terminal 87a is not used, but that's not the case for relay P -- terminal 87a is used.

Fortunately, there's no damage from using that wrong ...113 relay in the relay P position, but the (odd) symptom it will give you is:

Headlight pods down = no flashing
Headlight pods up = main/high beam headlights and flashing lights all flash together

when what should be happening (with the correct ...101 relay P) is:

Headlight pods down = flashing lights flash
Headlight pods up = main/high beam headlights flash

No, there's no functional relationship between having that wrong relay in relay P (or not) and the headlight pod motion, but just removing/installing a relay is a fairly violent act that gives everything a good shake. One of the difficulties with electrical Gremlins is that just making a measurement can wiggle/change things.

That all sounds good, and is how your GB system with DIM-DIP should work (dipped/low beam headlights "glow" when only the parking lights are "on").

Will do. It will be a fairly big email (~7MB) so let me know if you have any trouble with the reception on your end, and I'll try breaking it into smaller chunks.

GOOD HUNTING!