Full disclosure, I never use the heat. Decided to try it… turned dial to red… turned on fan… (which acts more like an on/off switch rather than proportional) blows cold… anything else I need to do to use it? any trouble shooting diagrams on this? figured perhaps the switch isn’t working, or a relay… or I’m pressing the wrong buttons.
done at 195, I have no heat… what are the 2 controls on the center console with the led bars by the temp control…?
Those are for opening the air vents supplying the footwells (IIRC, more bars lit = footwell vents more open). See pages H29 and H30 in the TR WSM for the "Sensor efficiency checks" made at the unplugged HVAC ECU harness connector.
Thanks, will work on next weekend… Stealing my own thread: what temp do the hashmarks on the temp gauge represent? 195 is labeled, 250 is labeled… what’s the mark between the two, closer to the 250? 220? 230?
I think you've got the right idea there -- the unlabeled hash marks roughly correspond to the recommended coolant temperature limits given in the TR OMs: "Don't exceed 4000 RPM until the temperature has reached 150~160 deg F" (Section 2) and "...max permitted temperature is 230~240 deg F (Section 3)
Thanks Steve, appreciate. Car runs at 195 in motion. Swings past that when I stop at lights, then fans kick in. Thermostat opens a hair just past 195… Next time I get a chance, would love to place thermostats that open 10 degrees sooner…
Follow up, is there some easy way to make sure the heater core is actually getting fluid/hot? I ask as I know I had heat before I did my major service. I don’t see mention of a bleed screw on the heater core…
How much does the water temp gauge increase when you turn on the headlights -- 1/2 a needle width or more like 2 needle widths? If the latter, improving the gauge grounding might reduce what it displays (the grounding for the TR gauges is a long tortuous path with too many connections). Doesn't change the actual coolant temp, but there is a psychological benefit for the Driver .
No, no bleeding needed at the heater core, and the much more commonly reported problem is "always heat" rather than "no heat". One relatively easy thing you can try is unplugging the hot water valve behind the passenger footwell (which should open the hot water valve) and then see if the coolant lines going to the hot water valve get warm to the touch when the engine is running and warm.
