What’s the best technique for removing this in situ please ? Typical dissimilar alloy galvanic corrosion its crumbled . I was replacing heater hose …which was going well until this …..! Image Unavailable, Please Login It’s barb was to fit a 5/ 8 ( 16 mm ) ID heater hose .
https://www.amazon.com/EDGE-INDUSTRIAL-Straight-Brass-Fitting/dp/B07CPHDZH4/ref=asc_df_B07CPHDZH4/?tag=&linkCode=df0&hvadid=385357994095&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5350214815912722814&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9028304&hvtargid=pla-825066382053&mcid=c02ec5731ed938b48a883b813ca8f7e8&ref=&adgrpid=80005512393&gclid=Cj0KCQiA7OqrBhD9ARIsAK3UXh2eg9CApfAqG9ZBFiEeiLcgzqZiuOcZy6w4xwfLABPzl-Yq-AFWLsEaAsiBEALw_wcB&th=1 You can get them at Home Depot too. I keep a couple in stock. Get the breather hose out of the way, cut off whats left, drill and tap hole working through fender well. 3/8 pipe tap from Home Depot or Amazon as well.
106227 is the F part number. Try a search using that part number for prior threads -- might have information about what techniques/methods others have tried/used for removal (although you'll probably have to do what Brian suggested).
My reason behind not using the OE aluminum nipple or the stainless one offered by Hill Enginneering is they both use the original threads. Getting one out in the pictured condition and leaving the original threads intact can be a monumental and unnecessary task that requires a level of precision very difficult with the engine installed. And in the end you may just have material too compromised by corrosion to count on. Oversizing to 3/8 on the other hand allows you to drill and thread good metal, use cheap and easy to get parts and a tap available at any local hardware store. For those concerned about originality it is hidden by the distributor.
Thx Brian .Parts on order . @ Steve - I have ordered a new f part in the off chance it does come out .At the mo it’s getting plus gas every few hrs .I have air heated it in some vain attempt to crack any thread corrosion. I will shove the shank of a 10 m drill bit down , use hose jubilee clips to compress what’s left and try and turn it all anti-clockwise after 2/3 days of penetrating fluid .
Tried acid concoctions periodically dripped on and heat and ice but the spout remaining just crumbled. As per Brian went for the fresh tap slightly over size as recommended in his link . worked a treat .Good call Brian and thx . Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login I cleaned the swaff out before fitting and nipping up . Image Unavailable, Please Login used some loctite 5922 gasket sealer Image Unavailable, Please Login I will leave it overnight to set then connect up and full up and run the engine .
Image Unavailable, Please Login The kit that works + fits for future reference. Image Unavailable, Please Login Hope this helps others ……there will be some !
