Help! 328 Won't Start!!

Car batteries typically last for 4 to 6 years in normal use; weekly use would be much less. You got your monies worth, time for new. Get a size "Group 34R" and report back.

Dave

 

I would replace a 6-1/2 year old battery and call it routine maintanence to start with. If there is a starter motor problem it won't fix that obviously, but we can only check the current draw of the starter with a good battery.

No, not necessarily. A battery can completly drop its load and measure 3-6V when cranking (will often give that rat-a-tat noise of the solenoid pulling in and releasing - hammering the contacts) or may hold 250 Amps at 8V which can crank the car but may not be fast enough or supply the coils enough Voltage to actually start it.

You may still be a battery cable/ground issue too, but Once again, with no measurements or readings it's impossible to tell.

 

I am posting this on Gus's behalf since he is now out driving his car!!!

It took a jump so a new battery seems to be all it needs.

DL

 

At this point you have two approaches:

1. Disconnect the ground interrupter (by the driver's headlight -- access through front hatch) and wait to see if the battery holds voltage (a voltmeter helps). If the battery with no load drops voltage over a few hours or a day, then you need a new battery. If it holds voltage, then try reconnecting the interrupter, and see if the battery drops in a few hours. If so, turn off the stereo. (e.g. look for excess load).

or 2. Just say the heck with it and buy a new battery.

For what it's worth, my Alfa is running a "60 month" Die Hard from 1993. Still works fine. The car can sit for months, and the battery still starts it.

Oddly enough, the Optima in my 328 just took a charge. Odd, because it was reading 6v two days ago. Putting the charger on it while I tested the current load brought it back a bit, and a couple hours on the charger let it fire the car right up. I'm now doing process (1).

 

The reason I asked the above question is with this much use I would be surprised if you have a permanent current drain flattening your battery that quick. You can check to see what sort of static draw you have with that mulitmeter I was talking about before ;-)
Anything above 25 milliamps will flatten an ordinary battery over a few days.

You could goto your local pep boys (?) and have the battery load tested, but I'd still be suspicious of it...

You can also use that handy little multimeter to check your charging system. With a new battery and all accessories off, you should be getting 13.9 to 14.3 Volts @ 2000rpm~ at the battery. With lights etc on, maybe down to 12.9 tp 13.2V

Anything less and I'd re-measure at the alternator itself. If there is a large potential difference (1V or more) look for a VD (voltage drop) problem at a connection or terminal.

 

Just replace the battery. If your problem happens again, then you know it is a charging system problem. At this point we have determined your battery is very old, and is not holding a charge well.

Even if it turns out to be the alternator, you need a new battery regardless.

If you need an answer, go to any major auto parts store, and they will load test the battery and check the alternator for free, all while in the car....they will bring a tester out to your car. Leave your spare tire at home, to make things easier.

Dave

 

When you are down at the store getting your new battery, pick up a 13mm socket and a couple of long extensions. That little hold-down clamp on the front of the battery won't know what hit it.

 

Gus, the battery may or may not be cactus (although given its age replacing it sounds like a good idea).

I have had exactly the ssme problems (now fixed) with my 3.2.

You get plenty of electrical power (lights, etc) & normally lots of fast cranking but sometimes just a click & buzz/humm. Usually when out with girlfriend/wife/etc!

The buzz/humm is the FI starter injection pumping away - if the engine doesn't crank then don't keep holding the key at "Start".

The problem sounds like the starter circuit. Mine actually ended up being the vehicle earthing & battery terminals. Lots of power for normal stuff like headlights, etc but sometimes insufficient to activate the starter solenoid. Occasionally it would "trip" out of cranking after a second or two.

Check the main electrical circuit from battery -> starter -> earth. Remove terminals & solenoid connections & earth-strap/cut-off switch connections & clean them all.

Other than that it will be battery itself, solenoid (easily refurbed by auto-electician) or maybe voltage drop in ignition-key unit (rare).

 

Nice to see the consistency. On another thread, I was advised that 80mA wasn't out of the ordinary.

I had a problem like that when I first bought the 328. When the car was cold, it would start fine. But when it got warm, the battery connector clamps expanded faster than the battery posts, and the connections got loose. After cleaning off the built-up corrosion they fit properly again. I added a bit of plug boot electrolytic gel to make sure the connection conducted.

 

cough...cough.. I called battery...cough cough

 

when describing your problem , you've got to be , really , clear.

so whether the engine is cranking or not , what sounds are
coming out when you turn the key , these need to be , clearly,
set out.

I , tried , to read through the posts above and couldn't get
clear on whether the engine was even cranking or not ....

If its not even cranking , the solution is real simple.

If its cranking fine but not starting , then its more serious.

The clearer that you are in describing your problem , the easier it
is for the rest of us to help you (or attempt to do so).

cheers.

 

This is very true.

Yeah, you're right, 25ma is fine. It was supposed to read 250ma will flatten a battery in a matter of a few days.

You've got a static draw of 80ma? That does seem a little high but not hugely excessive. We would always go by 50 milliamps being the upper limit for static draw. At that an ordinary battery should last at least 30 days (in winter) before becoming an issue and slow to crank. More demanding car alarms and stereo amps has risen this bar a little. Battery tenders are great if you plan on having a car sit for a while, especially in winter.

 

Good call, Chili Willie!

DL

 

yum.....chili.....

 

Gus,

My response is too late but...

My 328 had interstate battery before. It was dated 2002. Although not a daily driver, I drive my car every 2 weeks. The battery died last year even though I just drove the car a few days earlier. I just replaced the battery (got an Optima) and problem solved.

From the beginning of this thread, I suspect your battery was dead (esp. when you mentioned 1998). I've since used a battery tender to be doubly sure I can start the car anytime I want to use it. I suggest you get one.

Regards,
Ron

 

Hopefully you are up and running by now. It was quite a few years ago, but I had a 328 which I let sit for 4-6 months in florida. It developed similar problems. It turned out to be ground problems I think there is more than one ground than a single strap? If I remember correctly, there are several connections under the passenger floor board. I wire brushed all connections (with a dremel wire attachment) and spayed all grounds and connections with CAIG Deoxit. The car started but ran poorly which ended up being clogged injectors. I believe a car of this age should have all electrical connections cleaned and treated in any event, even if it is just preventative. Hope this helps.

 

Yes, I'm planning a trip to Sears for a battery tender.

I've been spoiled by my Alfa -- which has a static draw of zero ... not even a clock. (And that battery is mounted in the trunk -- it never gets heated by the engine or radiator. The chemical electrolyte charge remains very stable.)

I think the 328's vehicle recovery system is drawing more than it used to. Maybe because there's more background RF in the DC metro area for it's (superhet) radio to "hear" through than there was in suburban Boston. (My DSL provided asked if there was a radio transmitter in the region that might be interfering. Dude, this is the Capital: there are more emitters per square foot here than anywhere on the planet.) Or maybe because it's five years old.

 

I bought the battery tender for my Ferrari at Wal-Mart. It was about $20 and is a simple black box with wires coming out of it. I can select which kind of connection I want to use to provide power to the car, clips for the battery, o-rings for a permanent install, or a cigarette lighter adapter. I use the cigarette lighter adapter, just plug in the box, push the adapter into the cigarette lighter and leave it alone. It's controlled by a microprocessor so it doesn't allow the battery to overcharge. Cheap and easy.

 

Are the cig lighters permanently powered on the 328's? I haven't checked mine or looked at a wiring diagram lately but I thought they would have been controlled by the accessory position of the Ign switch?

 

Have you driven your 328 lately? There is no "accessory" position on the ign switch, remember? (My Alfas were all the same way.)

The cig lighters are permanently hot on most Italian cars ... and on the two Japanese cars I've owned, too. (I plug the CB into the lighter for long interstate trips -- and it doesn't go off with the engine.)

Checking the 328's wiring diagram: Permanently hot, via fuse #4, on the same circuit with the four-way flashers and the semi-auto antenna.

 

Still use a CB, how about that. I bet it's still better then a radar detector.