I have a 99 355 F-1 with major smog issues, please chime in, since Im starting to get a bit frustrated: I know these are very generalized questions but any guidance can hopefully steer me in the right direction 1. The air injector has blown the Reg 15 amp and also the 20 amp fuse. What could be causing this issue? 2. I understand that the Pre/Post O2 sensors are different, if I purchase the OEM from Bosh, are they plug and play, meaning that I dont have to make any modifications? 3. Im running Fabspeed Headers/Hyperflow Cats/Cappy-3 setup thats only 3 years old, the car previously passed smog last year in Texas, I live in CA. 4. Dave at Fabspeed stated that if they remap the ECU, that all the CEL codes dealing with smog could be permanently turned off. Does this really work and what would be the side effects? 5. What are the Minor parts dealing with smog, am I missing anything??? (O2 SENSORS-MAF-AIR INJECTOR etc ) Im a newbie who loves these cars, just need major guidance, thanks....
What kind of numbers did the car 'blow'? Or is this a question of how many original factory parts do you have to revert to in order to pass eye inspection?
didnt even get that far, as soon as they hooked up to the OBD2 their system locked up. this has happened at 3 different smog stations. Its now at a shop and the shop manager has never seen this problem. He suspects that the ECU is in some sort of "Lock Down Mode" is there such thing as this? WTF this is way beyond me...
well, several possibilities. The 355 OBD2 port needs to have pin 5 (I think it is pin 5) retrofitted to be connected to ground. If that does not happen, then some OBD2 readers will not communicate with it, and it looks like a lock up condition. Secondly, the power to the OBD2 connector goes through a fuse and if that fuse burns out, you will not be able to talk to it and the scanner will lock up. You need to figure that out, before you do anything else.
Pin Out Recall was done, I can hook up a generic reader and get codes, Its just the smog station devices are the ones that lock up. Can this be an ECU issue? would the Air Injector thats blowing fuses cause this problem?
The 2ndary air injection pump is a centrifugal type blower and I have heard these can get locked up for a few reasons; if debris gets past the filter element and gets caught in the impeller, sometimes corrosion can cause increased friction on the electric motor ....... and I have even heard the impeller can rub against the housing and get seized up. All of these scenarios will create a current draw increase which will blow the fuse. Put power to the little blower motor and listen, make sure it runs freely and blows plenty of air. If it does not take it out and take it apart to see what the problem is.
Just ordered all new Pre/Post O2 Sensors also new ECT sensor, the MAF seems fine. Is it true that if the Exhaust Valve is closed permanently, it can cause engine damage? If so, can I wire this ***** permanently open??? I was under the assupmtion that this was just for increased sound above a certain Rpm range, and that the majority of gases were passed thru the main pipes. Goth whats your slant on this
When the exhaust valve is closed above 1/2 RPMs and above 1/2 throttle, a) all the gasses go through the main cats, b) the main cats can overheat While I would not say a damaged (or worn out) cat is "engine damage" others might--i.e. its a friggen expensive part in the engine bay == its part of the engine.
When my car failed smog a couple of years ago, two things were bad. I had a hollowed out oem cat (tin can empty) and a hole in one manifold. Very expensive parts to replace but once repaired, passed smog test with flying colors.. I recommend taking the car to an independent mechanic. Cheaper to find out what the real problem is than to just order a bunch of parts you don't need. Air injection pump + o2 sensors are already setting you back a bit, but you may have a bigger problem like I did. Good luck friend.
Fabspeed Headers/Hyperflow Cats/Cappy-3 setup thats only 3 years old The car has only been driven about 900 miles in the last 3 years I highly doubt that these parts have failed in that short of time i guess I will wire it open for now until I can finally rectify this ****
Make SURE you use these in the right place. Numerous locations have these called out backwards. The installation should be: Bosch 13819 = Pre cat Bosch 13820 = Post cat
My '95 F355 passed smog yesterday with flying colors. The guy running the test said it was cleaner than a Honda Civic. OBDI rules! Sorry I won't be any help on your issues. Good luck.
This is the kicker here The PIN recall was performed and any generic OBD2 works When hooking up to the state smog machine it actually locks it up and their device stops working The Ferrari Mech said he has never encountered this before and stated that the ECU is in some sort of Lock Out Mode WTF!!!!!!!
1. Ben took the air injection pump out yesterday and found the plastic fan was jammed. Once he freed that up we bench tested the pump and it worked. We reinstalled it and completed an air injection cycle in the car. This morning we started the car up and completed another air injection cycle. The air injection system only runs for about 90 seconds on a cold start up so you have to wait a while between cycles. We will drive the car today to see if any codes come back or if we are able to complete enough drive cycles to get a smog test. 2. Which brings us to our problem with the CA emissions test. Obviously we also have to complete drive cycles, and not have codes come back, so this isn't the only obstacle but it is the one we don't have answer for at this point. The state computer isn't really "locked out". The problem is that it is getting inaccurate information. When the car is hooked up to the state machine it is reading the RPM's as erratic. The RPM's have to stabilize for the test to start, which the computer doesn't see happening. However, during this time the engine speed is consistent; the state computer is just getting an inaccurate RPM reading from the ECU. All of the other live data is correct. If you want to check Ferrari Chat to see if anyone else has experienced a similar problem, and hopefully found a solution, that could definitely save us some time. If any body can provide valuable insight please PM me, thanks....
lol ....... sometimes I make it out of the abyss ........ wiring the bypass open on the 5.2 will bring on o2 sensor codes. If it is stuck closed ... it would be my opinion .... that if the car is driven hard it would not be good for the motor. The bypass valve is primarily for increased flow capacity (bypassing the stock restrictive cats and the quieter portion of the muffler, which does not flow as well). All those parts should be in good shape with only 900 miles, however if the cats were seeing excessive hydrocarbons they could be quickly damaged in even less miles. If the valve is not working it needs to be repaired. I would not recommend wiring it open. This is because the stock o2 sensor locations will not see a constant timely exhaust sample at lower load/RPMs. The exhaust will take the path of least resistance, which is the bypass route ...... at higher load/RPM this is not a problem, because there is plenty of flow for both paths. If you are troubleshooting I would keep the valve closed and not drive the car hard, until the valve is repaired or replaced. +1 ... !!!
Im noting everything in a Word Doc for future reference, but again here is the major issue... The state computer isn't really "locked out". The problem is that it is getting inaccurate information. When the car is hooked up to the state machine it is reading the RPM's as erratic. The RPM's have to stabilize for the test to start, which the computer doesn't see happening. However, during this time the engine speed is consistent; the state computer is just getting an inaccurate RPM reading from the ECU. All of the other live data is correct. If you want to check Ferrari Chat to see if anyone else has experienced a similar problem, and hopefully found a solution, that could definitely save us some time. What could be the Major issue thats causing this ERRATIC RPM signal from the ECU!!!
I have no experience with that particular ECU RPM issue. However one should check and clean all engine connectors you can reach. That usually helps general engine operation. I am assuming the station is taping the ECU and not a sparkplug lead for RPM correct? How is your idle? Is it steady? Codes? I just bought OBDLink WiFi OBDII code reader with realtime data display and logging. They are not too expensive these days and it shows some useful info from o2 sensor to RPM to coolant temp plots. It is worth considering, it gives one more info and more info is almost always good.
For some guidance.... The Pin Recall has not been done on my car. I crawled under the dash and looked and there is no connector in Pin #4 (not surprising given its history). I can, however, read the codes just fine with my reader. Why? I have NO IDEA. But I can....and I have seen them all this summer You might want to take a look under the dash with a good light and see if there is indeed a pin in slot #4. The recall details were posted here by Hugh many years ago: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showpost.php?p=138007414&postcount=5 Gosh.... I hope you get it sorted. Maddening stuff I know.
I can tell you why. Your OBD2 code reader already has pin 4 and 5 tied together and to ground via the OBD2 reader so no need for the update. However, this is not the case with all code readers.
Hummmm Never thought of that. That makes perfect sense. I wonder if that is the case with the CA smog connector?
Can any of these be causing this issue... (Idle Control Motor, Water Temp Sensor, Throttle Position Sensor) these are key to signalling the Motronic the car is "cold", at idle.
