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Help - electrical control panel failure

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by smithbb, Feb 21, 2005.

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  1. smithbb

    smithbb Karting

    Jan 27, 2003
    69
    Lancaster, PA
    Full Name:
    Brad Smith
    #1 smithbb, Feb 21, 2005
    I have finally diagnosed an internal failure in my relay/fuse box circuit boards and am looking to see if anyone has had any experience in fixing or replacing a portion of this unit rather than buy an new one? The application is for a 86 Testarossa. I'm researching trying to replace the flex circuit boards but it is a bit over my head. Any assistance is greatly appreciated.
     
  2. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    27,022
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    #2 Steve Magnusson, Feb 21, 2005
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I've had to "bypass" the usual "relay-to-PWA-to-white connector-to-wire" path to a more direct "relay-to-wire" path on the high-current AC, water fan, and fuel pump lines. Do a search on "TR fusepanel" here, and search the old FChat site with "TR white connectors" (and mode, whole words only) -- you are not alone ;)
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  3. smithbb

    smithbb Karting

    Jan 27, 2003
    69
    Lancaster, PA
    Full Name:
    Brad Smith
    #3 smithbb, Feb 21, 2005
    Now isn't that a sight for sore eyes! I've practically been dreaming about this thing in my sleepless nights. I did have a shot at the bypass method you described but I did it from the back. Whether it was a bad solder job on my part or not, it went down the hopper from that point on. Seems if the circuit was marginal before, something bridged in the lower boards because I now have one bad short, practically melted a fuse in place. Bottom line is I've separated the boards which are really not usable in current state. I have to admit though after tracing these things that I'm seriously considering a direct wire job and pitching the idea of reproducing a board(s). Steve, I appreciate your post and will do some more work. Frankly, when I ran into this several weeks ago, the chat site was having its own problems which left me cut off from other wisdom such as yours. Thanks for the input! I've been beaten a few times on this escapade but I'm not defeated! Heck I first diagnosed this as a fuel pump problem having "assumed" the relay jump test proved the 20yr pump was bad. Well $270 bucks and 5 weeks later I'm still at it. Oh well. Tis the joy of ownership.
     
  4. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    27,022
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    #4 Steve Magnusson, Feb 21, 2005
    Well, glad to commiserate with you smithbb, but if your PWB is seriously delaminated/damaged you're virtually stuck with getting a new one (even though, in theory, it's no better than your last PWB). Doing a complete rewire ala 308 ,where you've got "male & female spade connectors on wires" (rather than the PWB traces) between the "in wires-to-fuses-to-relays-to-out wires" doesn't thrill me unless done with extreme quality (meaning big expense for nice relay sockets and fuse sockets plus some way to mount them well + too much time;)) -- but JMO.
     
  5. smithbb

    smithbb Karting

    Jan 27, 2003
    69
    Lancaster, PA
    Full Name:
    Brad Smith
    #5 smithbb, Feb 21, 2005
    Steve, your concern is warranted. I was still figuring using the existing relay and fuse lugs but considering the ability to mechanically connect and solder, running leads between. Could be a brain fart. I've got more options to sort through so time will tell. I'll try and keep everyone posted depending on how this is turning out. Thanks again.
    Brad
     

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