help, how does this come apart?

do you have a tig or mig?
since bearing is being replaced, the old race is junk-right?
Get some 1/4 or 3/8" bar stock, cut a diameter piece which will fir 1/2 way into race, grind a nice radius at each end so there is maximum surface purchase(contact with face of race), then tig/mig in in place, then run a bead around the circumference of race at this halfway up level, and the race will "lift" out if it doesn't fall out on the ground.
In rare instances, it might require a tap from the other side with a brass drift on this strap welded across the diameter
if this doesn't do it, then the directions were not followed correctly.
this has worked 100% of the time for the last 35 years...

 

If it is on top it is for oil to lube the bearing. If it is on the bottom it would be to drain oil from behind the seal.

 

it looks as though there is a threaded ring that pre-loads the bearing. It also looks as though it is staked to prevent it from unthreading. the 4 holes may be for a special tool as well. Per the parts dwg above there is also a 'C' clip behind that assy.

 

Please note that the differential is now being held up by this side. If you pull this side out the diff will be loose in the casing. It is likely that the weight load of the diff is preventing the bearing carrier from sliding out.

 

To clarify my earlier post, the removal slots for the bearing slots are ground in the housing to permit a drift punch to be used o knock the bearings-out. The bigger the punch and the harder the tap will reduce the damage to the bearing. The hammer blow needs to be enough to break the bearing free else the bearing will absorb the energy from the blow and could chip.
Attached is a link to a pictorial example of grinding the slots. (Picture #6 shows the slots)

https://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/frontbrg.htm

 

Oh and to answer your question, yes you can probably use those threaded holes to get the carrier out.
No offense, but considering that this seems to be your first attempt at bearing replacement/dismantling, you may want to look up a machine shop in the phone book and call them if it's ok to step by and ask for advice. They may have a press and right sized tools, or know someone who does. Pay close attention whether they know what they are talking about, ask what they would do and then go away to think about it if you have even the smallest doubt.

And a TIP: do NOT leave such small rare parts behind at any machine shop, not even when they say they will do it asap. You need to be there, have them take it apart and take the pieces away with you, and come back later with new seal etc if needed for re-assembly.
I learned this the hard way when some rare, seemingly scrap parts disappeared which took me a lot of effort and time to find replacements for.

 

So you can't see the hole on the backside for those two? If so I'd tend to think they might be alignment pins. Was there anything in those two extra holes on the other side. I couldn't tell from the pics but in the parts diagram it looks like both flanges have the same holes.

Also since the inner race stayed on the other shaft I would think this side would be just as tight. I'd try taking the ring off the front of this one but it looks like you'll have to undo the punch marks holding it to the case to get it to spin.

 

I don't think he has to go as far as grinding or cutting into the carrier to remove the bearing. The polymide cage should be easy enough to remove and then all the roller bearings will drop out leaving behind the outer race. There are blind collet style removal tools for such bearings as well. More then likely it needs a jig to remove this bearing. Also it's not always a good idea to hit or use pointed tools on bearing races, they usually are tool-steel and that stuff shatters like glass while ejecting small bits at high velocity that likes to cut into flesh.

In the link you provided I can see the problem of getting that race out, so either it was never meant to be replaced or heating the aluminum housing and having the race set up in expanding jaws while pulling the housing off might work. a real PITA I'm sure.

 

Yes, they appear to be "jack screw" holes.... to be used for pushing the assembly off the shaft.

Yes, this appears to be a threaded lock collar / bearing retainer (item #25 -- in the parts diagram). It is mechanically staked (punch swaged) into 4 notches, at 90 degrees apart, in the flange housing. If you bend back the swages, you should be able to unscrew this collar and remove the bearing assembly behind it --- you will have to improvise a tool to engage the 4 holes (circled in the photo) in order to do so.

Also, this part is then likely a consumable --- as it will have to be swaged again during reassembly, and unless the new set locations are far enough apart from the old ones, it cannot be re-used. So, you may want to locate and price a new one of those before committing.
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I don't think it will accomplish anything to remove the bearing retainer at this stage.

I believe the whole assembly should prise off with the jack screws --- but, without being able to see it first hand, I am reluctant to say do that. I am certain that the inner race of the bearing will require considerable force to push it off the shaft...... so, very carefully..... you may want to apply more torque on the jack screws you have placed. Put small pieces of steel under the tips of the screws to protect the casting (better yet, I like to use pennies --- copper is hard enough yet forgiving). Worst case scenario is you damage the bearing in this process, but if you intend to replace it anyway, nothing to lose --- and, it should accomplish disassembly.

 

Great --- glad it worked for you ! ..... and it only cost you $0.02 !

Smart not to pull it all the way off ---- if you line up and start all (5) of the flange screws, you should be able to pattern torque them down evenly a little at a time to press the assembly back on (but, I am sure you figured that out already)

 

That is likely a result of the inherent thrust play in the bearing and whatever gear / spline stack exists in the entire system.

You will have to find a suitable piece of tubing, large socket, etc. to line up on the face of the bearing's inner race and use it tap the race on a bit further until the groove (for the c-clip) protrudes enough to get the clip installed. Be careful not to "overdrive" it --- tap it down a tad bit at a time, and stop just as soon the clip is able to be fitted.

 

Geno ---

How is it going ? Did you get it all put back together ?