Help - Lost clutch pressure!

Have you checked the fluid level ?
It’s under the front lid . The small odd shaped cover by the steering wheel side ( assuming RHD ? )

Should look this full ?

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This reservoir is both brake + clutch fluid . There’s only this one btw .

 

Check the throwout bearing - is there any fluid on or under the pumpkin?

 

Classic signs of the throw out bearing. If you have an OEM version, guaranteed it has failed. They don't really let you know until they're done. The good news is that this is a fairly uncomplicated DIY in your driveway project. Get the Hill Engineering replacement. Check the tech section here for basic instructions. Get a buddy to help if you are not fairly competent or confident in your mech skills. Get a set of replacement triple seals (O-rings) while you are there. Also some good DOT4 brake fluid. You don't really need Ata synthetic but its pretty good stuff.

Usually this failure is accompanied by fluid dripping out of the little screen at the base of the pumpkin. It is possible that it leaked out elsewhere. Mine failed catastrophically on a casual drive through my neighborhood and needed a tow home. GL and let us know how it came out.

Alternatively I was thinking that the clutch cable might have snapped or is binding. It is sheathed. Maybe removing it and adding some lubrication would solve that unless it is broken.

 

Clutch cable? There is no clutch cable.

 

Interesting to see if there’s any fluid at the pumpkin area - OP claims no leaks on the floor ??

 

Master cylinder seal?

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There is a difference between driving car yesterday and the clutch fails today vs. worked fine last drive 3 months ago and clutch is failed today. If you have a failed system you either have lost seals at T/O bearing or the master, Have air is system from a leak or running fluid down below the pick-up point in the reservoir which is high in the reservoir because the clutch and brake use a common reservoir so you could have plenty of fluid but not enough for clutch system, split the T/O bearing then you would see fluid at the pumpkin.

Look at the reservoir and the entry point of fluid into the clutch line. If that level is anywhere close to the clutch line you need more fluid. Add and bleed and see if you get lucky. If that looks good then look in pumpkin for leak. Leak = need new T/O bearing. No leak means you still got a problem and you have to figure it out. These cars are old! I would not want to fix a bad T/O bearing only to have the master seals go next. I want everything well maintained. That means I would be rebuilding the master and the T/O bearing and maybe adding a new clutch disc/pressure plate if near the wear limit and packing the flywheel with new grease and take a good look at the Flywheel for replacement too. When we deal with the cars more systematically they work better and don't fail us on the road. If you just fix what broke what's next in the chain?

 

The entry point into the clutch line on the brake fluid reservoir is positioned high looking at the outside but, inside, it extends down to near the bottom of the reservoir so there should be no problem if the fluid level is below the external clutch line entry point.

 

Never seen that on 348s I have had or worked on. And a tube would add more cost and complexity to the design both unlikely due to ferrari sourcing the low bidder.

 

If it was the clutch release bearing, you would have a puddle of brake fluid under the "pumpkin" and a level drop in the reservoir. Your problem is most likely failure of the seal in the clutch master cylinder (see post #7). You may wish to try bleeding the clutch system but, even if your clutch starts operating after bleeding, it may be a short lived solution.