Yup. I’m gonna do it. Here’s the quick background. I’m taking a stock frame and body, and modifying it to more “speed racer” like specs. What I want out of this build is more drive ability in modern traffic so I am planning the following: Engine: looking at Miata block w smaller turbo and manual 6 speed gearbox Ecotec block with small turbo and 6 speed manual gearbox Discs all around Rear end? Plumbing. Electrical. All upgraded. Anyone done this ?
Have you ever done a build before? I have been involved in quite a few. Some turn out great some, well they never quite get to where they should be. First thing, whatever you have for a budget, toss it, it will cost more (always does). I learned to work on cars because of cars like the Spitfire, and the MGB. I still like the way those cars look, and would not change a thing looks wise, though the electrical systems are trash and you (at least my old eyes would) would need to fit them with better headlights. If my memory is correct you should have enough room to fit a small engine and a turbo. Though you will need to be careful about the weight of everything since balance is critical. Okay I will stop now, but I could go on for hours, but I wish you luck, I am past all that stuff now, it was a lot of fun.
These sites will help. http://www.mgaguru.com/mg01.htm http://www.britishv8.org/index.htm http://www.britishv8.org/MG/SteveBowen.htm
I would go with as many S-2000 components as possible except the rear-end, which is the weakest link.
Why the Mazda engine? Are you looking at a specific turbo conversion (in the UK the mx5 only had aftermarket turbo options). What is the weight/ performance benefit over say a rover V8 from the B series? (I was into Triumph GT6 conversions, my bro was a BGTV8 fan, I was sure the A took the V8 and the s6, sorry is wrong). Certainly takes B series (and therefore 5 speed box); Oselli are just down the road from me - given your distance, still worth an email. You could probably get a supercharged older jag straight6 in. Slightly more period and more than enough poke. I’d have also thought there’s a Toyota unit and gearbox you could run, with broader options for super charging or turbo depending on your needs. You haven’t mentioned your brake specification yet. What are you planning to do for that? I love modding cars. But I think there are other ways to soup an MGA or other ways to reboot a Miata to look like a 60s sports car. For the latter, given the value, I am assuming you have a good budget / don’t mind devaluing the car. Look forward to the build. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
For cost and simplicity, I would be very tempted to keep and rebuild a lot of the MGA, at least the front suspension and steering. Get bigger brakes. Get a solid Ford 9” rear end with a four-bar and Panhard rod for the rear, along with rear discs. That’s similar to what I did with my ‘61 Corvette. I got new tubular A-arms in front, a Flaming river steering rack, and the above mentioned rear end from http://www.jimmeyerracing.com/ with Wilwoods all around. Chevy 350, which necesssitated moving motor mounts, and a Tremec 5-speed. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Matt
That 61 is beautiful! You are starting to get me back in that old feeling. There are some good ideas being thrown around here, I think they call them restomodes but if I were going to do it, that would be the way I'd go. I don't really remember the transmission in those cars, or how much power it can take. Just remember this OP, everything you do effects something else. You put too much weight in the front the car will plow, so you will need to rework (or replace) the suspension. If you plan to use miata guts, try looking on that forum, there are likely vendors that can offer ways other than traditional turbo chargers to add power.
Sorry for not chiming back in earlier, I was moving house to house. Ok, thank you so far for all the great input and replies. Here are some of my thoughts and responses. Overall goal: a steerable daily driver type MGA I can get in and go at a moments notice and just drive -175-200HP is a goal -Improved disc brakes on all corners -Improved cooling (larger radiator etc.) -NO heating plumbed in (no need) -No plan on having a soft or hardtop. Strictly roadster at all times. -Subtle but classy interior in leather. I'll likely use diamond stitch on the trans tunnel, door cards, and other surrounding leather. -Classic "Sportback" bucket style seats, and a VERY simple interior. No radio, or speakers, interior lights or etc. -Color: Right now, this exterior color is winning, with a peanut butter brown interior. Image Unavailable, Please Login -Ok, now the reasons I don't want to go V8 or older rover/other Brit style. -other engine considerations: Nissan SR20DET Twin Cam or Toyota ZZ engine? like mentioned, maybe with a supercharger. I want it to be unique and my "own". It doesn't have to be a Miata block. I'm just considering options at this point. Here's what I'll be working with (obviously after removing the 1500). It's just mocked up currently, nothing set in stone. -The body has some dents and etc, but is rust free, and essentially primer ready. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I'm not super tech savvy, and will have a friend or shop be doing the majority of the work. When it comes to engine balance, to me, the weight of each engine, not internal balance, if a MGA block weighs within 100lbs of the chosen swap block, whens the threshold for likelihood it'll work? Or can it be configured with some firewall "movement" to gain back the balance?
Congrats on the house move, PITA job, trust it went well. So I’m assuming it’s a twincam or deluxe set up as it’s with discs. I really don’t think you brake system is sufficient to 100%+ your power to weight and not change other aspects than bigger discs. I get it that it’s a driver rather than a track car, but with that power and possible changes in balance/weight changes and handling you’d be better off with a double check of your system. If nothing else, I would suggest that a change in shocks and springs, discs, Calipers will change your handling and ability to use that power far better, especially in the wet. The Toyota doesn’t need supercharging to make the power - 190 stock for the 7 gen celica (just make sure it’s been sorted for the bolts), but they do need hi revving. Only if you get the Mr2 (UK spec) will you need to mod. +1 to the post red change of balance/CoG etc. Shame to lose 25hp to the bag of cement you have to catty in the boot to get the CoG back LOL. Sounds like a brilliant project and, as you say, opportunity to create something unique. Love the grey. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks Stu. The move sucked....but it's over Yes to your brakes specs, I understand upgrading the suspension, all braking components and strengthening all driveline components will be key. I want everything underneath to be as robust as possible, but without taking away from the charm of an old Brit Roadster. My budget is probably way to weak to accomplish ALL of this, but I'm going to try.
Do the handling first - the car won’t kill you (literally) and the lack of power will drive you mad until you have to start saving again; otherwise. Plus if you get a cheap celiac, you’ll have a fun run about for the rest of the project. If you do the power mods first, Sod’s law you’ll run out of cash and just end with ‘fast road pads’ as your upgrade and wrap the car around a tree and GK what else! What are you doing with wheels and tyres - another factor for offsets, caliper spacing and hubs etc to give you the space to fit components and the width to take decent rubber for a 200hp fwd car on a ladder chassis. - I’m assuming the move was to downsize to pay for the build Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Ken, Good luck with your build. I have owned 3 MGA's and they are a blast to drive. I know you are going to ditch this running gear, so this is maybe a moot point. If you rotate the cover plate on your trans 180 degrees, ( I know, that's the way it is depicted in all the repair manuals, but it is incorrect) you will be able to shift it into reverse without that 1/4" gasket you have on there. Here is the correct orientation as seen on my Elva Courier (MGA running gear) : Image Unavailable, Please Login
If it were me, I'd try not to move the engine from the factory position. I don't think you could move it enough to change things that much. When I say balance I mean that when you start changing things they can effect other aspects of the car, like the guy who thinks his 22' wheels make his 911 handle better. I have driven cars that someone dropped a big V8 in and did not do a lot of other things, when you hit the brakes the front end plowed badly and the handling was shot. I agree with Stu, when it come to suspension and braking. Try and stay relatively small (and light ) on the wheels and tires, I cannot imagine big rubber doing much for these cars. I had so lightweight 17" wheels (less that 16lbs each) on my last Miata RF, they made a big difference. A shame you don't live near me, I'd probably want to lend a hand (when they work well enough).
In an MGA chassis?? Seriously doubt it - the Jag engine is enormous, and very, very heavy. If originality is not your thing, a Miata engine will make as much power in a lot less weight and space. But wait... By "older", are you talking about, say, an XJR engine? All AL? Weight might be better (and smooooooooooooooooooooooth!!), but betting it's still far to large for the MGA chassis.
I think the Jag block would make the car plow. MGAs are so light already, I'm looking to replace it's 400LB engine with a 350-375LB one (the S13 weighs around that). I would love a Jag engine, but I think you're right, just too much weight.
The S2000 engine is said to weigh 326 pounds, somewhat lighter, but still relatively heavy. It is rated at 240 HP and revs to 9,000+ rpm. The S2000 engine can easily be modded to around 300 HP. Thus, you could double or even triple available HP. However, the S2000 6-speed transmission is about 125 pounds which is probably about double of that of the MGA transmission, but obviously engineered for the Honda engine, but would sit further back in the car. So, replacing both engine and transmission is probably about a wash overall, but you would be shifting some weight to the rear. I agree that you want to keep the MGA as light or lighter than it is now.
Just remember you can put a T5 transmission behind almost any engine, and have options for gearshift position. Matt
I wish you could help me too! lol, this project is going to take me forever. My wife just rolls her eyes because its a roadster and the kids cant partake. But I dont want to spend money on anything right now the kids could partake in!
It will. https://www.jegs.com/p/Quick-Time-Bellhousing/Quick-Time-Nissan-Engine-Adapter-Bellhousing/2834608/10002/-1 Matt
WRT the S2000 engine - I believe they are great engines, but am also led to believe that they make their power very high up the rpm curve. If that's your thing, then great. Not sure it's something I'd want, however.... Or maybe.... I dunno... Just a thought....
