This is good news for the ignition switch itself as it indicates that you have a high resistance upstream from where you are measuring -- i.e., a high resistance in the path of (see Fig 1): +12V battery post +12V battery terminal smaller 6R red wire leaving the +12V battery terminal and going to the large spade terminal A on the fuse-relay panel traces on the fuse relay panel going to the red wires in the w connector Since your headlights work, that indicates the +12V battery post to +12V battery terminal is OK, but I'd check things like the connection of the smaller red wire at the +12V battery post -- don't know if it's separately bolted or just cast into the battery terminal along with the 35N black wire. Make the same voltage test with key "on" and key "off" at terminal A on the fuse-relay panel (and unplug/inspect/reseat terminal A too). You may need to get creative (like wrapping a wire around the base of the male tab of terminal A before plugging in the female spade) to be able to touch terminal A with your voltmeter while still being plugged in/connected. The bottom line is until you can get the voltage at those two red wires in the w connector to be +12V with both the key "off" and "on", you don't need to worry about anything else. If you pass the "test" at terminal A, but fail the "test" at the red wires in the w connector = bad sign for the fuse-relay panel itself. If you fail the "test" at both locations = has to be something in the 6R red wire from the +12V battery terminal to terminal A male tab. Good Hunting!
Thank you Steve. I will carry on along your lines, and really really hope it is not the fuse/relay panel. /Peter
There are two white plastic electrical connectors on the left side in the engine compartment. If some connections are dirty or corroded it could cause both conditions.
I think I have cleaned all in the engine compartment but I do not wan't to miss any. Behind the wheel well close to the digiplex? /Peter
Image Unavailable, Please Login I THINK it is solved! Following the tips from Steve I started with testing the red wires from battery to A and B on the fuse/relay board. Adding a new test wire directly from battery + to A and B things started working! So, something was wrong with the original red wire connection. Close to the board I saw that there was a black tape on one of the red wires. Someone had cut the wire and then made a really bad repair. Sometimes working, sometimes not. Worst kind of fault to find. Welded the wires, started the car several times, all seems well! Thank you all, excellent FC work! /Peter
Thank you Stefan. Agree, very stupid repair and person. What makes it more strange is that he cut the red wire just 5 cm from the spade connection on the relay board. Why not just unplug it? /Peter
Looks like a kill switch or disconnect might have been inserted there, thus the ring terminals and someone removed the switch, bolting the terminals together when it failed or was no longer desired.
If I may butt in for moment: If your ignition switch switch has the black plastic module on the back of it with two white machine screws holding it on, it can be removed in situ, if you have enough room to get at it. It is a common BMW (2002) part, and it costs<$100USD>. Only buy the German brand, as the Asian one is inferior. It is not IF, but WHEN this switch will fail. You can look up one of my threads on this in the 308,400, sections. This black plastic module either melts or breaks or both. Don't even think of driving with it in this condition, because it will break your heart. Ask me how I know..I hope that this is of some help. Thank you. Jq.
Thanks Jaques. I thought this was the problem from the beginning and I knew I had read about it, now I also know where. Wasn't there a discussing on what part nummer it should be. Vagualy remember that there were two different part numbers, one for Mondial and one for 308? Any idea? The BMW was a SWF part if I remember it correct. /Peter
Did you check the relay on the fuse board in the front? Simple swap it with another of the same Bosch number to see if it works. I had the exact same issue 5y ago.
Yes, I swapped relay but with no difference. All relay are new Hella of the sealed coloured typ. Really think it was the bad repair of the red wire that caused the problem. /Peter
