Help needed with "Taking it Off", the polish I mean.

Most, if not all polishes I know of are meant to be removed by hand. You can use the Rupes I guess to remove the polish but by hand will be the best bet. They have great pads used to polish or correct the paint but you'll have to remove with a microfiber towel by hand.

 

Use an auto detail spray to catalyst the removal...Makes life easy this way!
Pics please!

 

honestly, it shouldn't be that difficult to remove.

if it is, the issue is either too much product being used, or not enough working time on the machine to break the product down. Work one section at a time and then immediately wipe off.

i just did a 2 step on my 430 last month. Sonax perfect finish with lake country orange pad and nano polish with white pad.

 

Most of the cars I have polished are very contour bound.
I have a 3 inch variable speed polisher which I prefer to do 2 ft X 2 ft sections at a time.
Hard foam pads are usually not final pads..micro fibre is better.
There are many griots videos on line that takes you step by step through the process

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=griots+how+to+polish

 

Just be carefull you dont inflict " buffer trails or holograms " into the paint, when taking wax, sealants or glazes off via machine, it can easily happen.
Check the first panel straightaway, in direct sunlight if you can.
As others have said, you can apply via DA but taking off by hand is nearly always best.

 

I once remember reading an article on machine polishing many years ago that has stood me in good stead.
" How do i get the perfect reflection from my cars paint?", it basically explained that surfaces that gave good reflection, were perfectly flat and free form defects, thus when the light hits the surface it was reflected straight back (mirror or specular reflection), if the surface is poor, then when light hits, the light is reflected in many directions (diffuse reflection).
So going back to your question of "more brilliance", the reflection will only be as good as the surface finish. Therefore, we have to go back to the initial stages of machine polishing.
Did we fully decontaminate the paint prior to polishing, ie use of clay bar etc.?
What is the paint finish like, smooth or full of orange peel?
If poor do we have enough paint thickness to wet sand?, wet sanding will also level off the paint making it flatter?
Did we carry out a full 3 stage polishing process to fully remove all defects?
When the above criteria has been met, then we have a better chance of getting that concours finish we all want.
Most show or concours cars have been re-sprayed to high standard, with multiple layers of topcoat, thus the paint can be wet flatted until perfectly flat, then the polishing process can begin to bring back the gloss and luster.
Will you achieve more brilliance from your paint using a soft finishing pad and glaze or achieve a similar result by hand applying a good wax and buffing off by hand.
You could try 2 panels side by side for a test comparison Woody?

 

THIS.....is everything!

Did we carry out a full 3 stage polishing process to fully remove all defects?

 

When you take your pride n joy to a detailer for paint correction, he or she will normally carry out a 3 Stage Polishing Process, this will, in most instances remove all defects and achieve a perfect paint finish.
Step 1 - The compounding stage, aggressive pad and polish to remove deep scratches etc. By taking paint depth readings the paint can also be levelled.
Step 2 - The start of the Refining Stage - medium cut pads and polish to bring the gloss and reflection back into the paint.
Step 3 - The Finishing or Jeweling stage - very fine cut pads and final finish polishes are used to achieve a deep gloss, lustre and reflection.