Help. Testarossa stuck in gear

when the lever is going in reverse what happened in the gearbox? you tried already what I suggested with a second man inside and you look what happens in the gearbox?

so with engine running you can shift in all gears? strange, because once you have written that you can shift only in 2nd, neutral and reverse when you have been driving. and when you drive the engine is running. now you write that you can shift in all gears but only when the engine is running. so very confusing. you in the open gearbox when someone inside the car shift?
so you put in 2nd and 3rd gear when engine was running?
and when engine is not running you can not shift except 2nd, reverse and neutral? and still always 2nd gear is inside?
all very confusing this ! ! !

so how you put in then when you took the photos 2nd and 3rd gear? started the engine?

 

the lever is in neutral and what is in the gearbox?
stil waiting for answer how you get the 2nd and 3rd gear in when you took the photos?
second and fourth gear together? absolutely impossible, otherwise the complete gearbox would block.
I think best would be to call wade williams and talk to him. this what you write here sometimes makes no sense and is confusing to me. also I gave you many things to do and get no respond what happened. without this I can not help you to go on. sorry.

 

I apologize if you have tried this but thought I would post a few pictures. I've added some text to your picture and added a picture of my homemade tool used in securing the shift shaft as outlined in the WSM, (do you have a copy of the WSM?) If you disconnect the shift shaft that runs from the cabin to the transmission at the input shaft into the transmission (A) you can then just put the transmission in second gear by hand,manipulation the shaft (B) Once second gear is selected you should be able to insert the 6mm tool into the blind hole in the shaft (C) that lines up with the hole in the case. Once you secure the shaft in the case you can then go through the process of manipulation the turnbuckle (D) to set the gear selector in the gate. This is a simplistic explanation of this process and I would suggest reading the WSM and following the instructions, I am by no means an expert but did have to figure this out through trial and error. Hope it helps.
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Disconnect the shift rod and push it towards the front of the car. Manually Put the gear box in neutral. Try to spin both rear wheels forward (you will need 2 people). If you can't, then there is something locking up the gear box. If you can, then you have found true neutral position.

Now set the shift rod on the shifter shaft and put the through bolt in place without the nut. Note the position of the shifter in the gate. If everything has been set correctly, the shifter should be close to dead center in the neutral position. If not, adjust as needed while keeping and eye on the fork position in the gear box.

Have a helper run through the gears as you look at the gear selection of the forks in the gear box..do it a few times. With each gear selected try to turn the rear wheels by hand with each selection. If you can't turn the wheels forward on any gear except neutral..you have solved your problem.

 

thank you for clarifying a little billy. but there are still some things not clear to me:

so you see at the open gearbox that 2nd gear is connected?

so again: you see then at the open gearbox that 2nd gear is connected?

the picture from jeff shows exactly all what is important.
so even if your gearbox is in such neutral position ( no matter where the shifter inside the car is ), then there is also inside 2nd gear? so when the rear wheels are in the air and nobody push the clutch pedal then you not can turn the wheels?

 

From looking at the photos of your transmission, I would say that the 2/3 shift fork has moved on the selector shaft. When the transmission is in neutral all the selector forks line up as they should, and the position of the detents on the shafts are also all lined up. But it looks like the 2nd/3rd operating sleeve ( the part moved by the shift fork) is not centered between the two gears and synchros. When the transmission is in 3rd gear with the sleeve forward, it looks like the sleeve is right up against the gear, but when it is in 2nd gear with the sleeve backward, it looks like there is a gap between the sleeve and the gear, and it is not fully engaged on the teeth of 2nd gear.
Are you sure that the trans is in 2nd gear when you are in neutral? It looks like the operating sleeve might be engaging the teeth of 3rd gear when the transmission is in neutral. I would check and make sure that when the trans is in neutral with all the selector forks lined up, that the selector sleeve are centered beween the two gears that they operate. Perhaps one of the shift forks slipped on its selector shaft? If the transmission was working fine before the service, it does't make sense that a gear would seize on a shaft. It seems more likely that there is an issue with the gear selection mechanism.
Regards, Brian.

 

so as I see it now:
the 2nd gear is blocked on the layshaft or the needle bearing inside the gear is blocked. if so then no other way to disassemble the complete gearbox

so when you see that you have for example 3rd gear in and someone will push the clutch and you can not turn the rear wheels ( both the same direction ! ! ! ) then it is for 100% sure that two gears are in or the second gear is blocked as I have written. but this I never had until now with about 40 years experience with ferrari.

but if you can turn the wheels then remove the chrome plate inside where the shifter is and try to shift with out this plate and see what will happen. I think it is all only an adjustment.

if 1 rear wheel turns back and the other forward and it is easy to turn one wheel then you may have a broken diff. normaly because of the limited slip diff it need some power to turn the wheels that the diff will do its work

 

when it is hard to turn a rear wheel then all ok

you may try with a small srewdriver to get between the synchroring and the gear when the sleeve is in neutral. then the synchro ring has a very little play. try this not only on the 2nd. may be you feel a difference?

 

I suspect that the hard second gear shift you had just prior to failure was second gear having some drag on the shaft and not being easily synchronized when shifting. I was hoping to tell you something different when we spoke. Like Turbo Joe, in my 25+ years I have not had a gear seize on a shaft, but in my 25+ years I also see many first that I never see again.
Glad I could help, Feel free to call again as I will do what I can to help you get the best outcome.

 

I would be very surprised if 2nd gear was seized on the shaft. The gears have a polished inside bore that rides on a needle roller bearing that rides on a polished inner race that slides onto the splined layshaft with the pinion gear on the end. All of these gears/bearings are pressure lubricated from the transmission oil pump that supplies oil to the inside of this shaft.
The only time that I have seen a gear seize up in a transmission was on a transmission that was recently rebuilt with not enough end float between the gears, so when it got hot, the clearance went to zero and the gears seized to the spacer washers between the gears, but not the bearings that they ride on.

The needle roller bearings don't need much oil to work. You would have to drain all the oil out of the transmission and drive it for some time before they would seize, and all the gears and shaft would be blue from the heat that was generated from the lack of lubrication.
If the transmission worked fine before and then suddenly now stopped working fine, then there is an adjustment issue regarding the gear selection mechanism.

As turbo-joe said, there should be some play between the synchro ring and the gear that it operates when the transmission is in neutral. It should float on the gear, and you should be able to move it with a pocket screwdriver. If the operating sleeve is loading the synchro ring against the gear, and it has no play, then that operating sleeve is not centered between the two gears and synchro rings as it should be in neutral. That is where you should start looking.

 

I agree 100 % brian.
so when the synchroring ( 2nd gear ) has play a little then it is impossible that when all is in neutral that still the 2nd gear is working. I think it is only an adjustment.also when engine has been out nothing was done at the gearbox. the only needle roller bearing once I had seen stuck has been from the single 3rd gear of the reverse at a TR family.

but nevertheless I wonder: the gearbox is in neutral and billy write there is in still 2nd gear. so may be the synchroring is stuck on the gear?. but if so and for example the 3rd gear is in then the gearbox will not turn anymore because of 2 gears in at the same time. I always put in 2 gears at the same time to pull tight the 2 ring nuts at the main and layshaft.

but brian: you write about not enough end float between the gears. how can you adjust this endfloat? it is given because of the thickness from the single gears and the bushings where the gears rotate on the needle roller bearings. the layshaft has 2 taper roller bearings and the first bearing is an axial floatingroller bearing. on the mainshaft there is the first bearing a "fix" bearing ( doubble row ball bearing what hold the shaft in axial position and the other 2 are also axial floating roller bearings. so I wonder how the shafts/gears could not move when getting warm?

and wade: everything sometimes you / I see something new what never happened before or never have seen before. so nothing is impossible

 

My guess is the shift shaft was out of adjustment and you may have messed up the synchro trying to shift.

 

so back again Billy and don´t get confused please:

one of the pictures shows the gearbox is in neutral. so why you ask then if you could switch into neutral from the side cover?

and you have written that there is still a gear inside. you are sure?

you tested with a small screwdiver if the sychroring have play a little? not only 2nd gear, all gears that you see what could be different at the 2nd?