Here's a pic of me pulling the engine out of my 612 yesterday! | Page 43 | FerrariChat
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Here's a pic of me pulling the engine out of my 612 yesterday!

Discussion in '612/599' started by trygve11, Jul 4, 2014.

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  1. steelej

    steelej Formula Junior

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    #1051 steelej, Aug 26, 2015
    Just been through all 53 pages of this thread today, BRAVO :)

    John.
     
  2. trygve11

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    #1052 trygve11, Aug 27, 2015
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  3. m5shiv

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    #1053 m5shiv, Aug 27, 2015
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2015
    Jason,

    Just FYI, I replaced both my pumps because one of the plastic fittings cracked and started spewing fuel. We observed that the rigid line was stressing the fitting so we re-routed it a bit on the re-install. When this happened to me, I searched the forums and I saw evidence of this kind of failure in a few other threads.

    Cheers,
    Shiv
     
  4. m5shiv

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    #1054 m5shiv, Aug 27, 2015
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  5. m5shiv

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    #1055 m5shiv, Aug 27, 2015
    Pump = # 181204
    Pump seal = #181681
     
  6. trygve11

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    #1056 trygve11, Aug 27, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Thanks Shiv. That's great input. I will look out for it!

    Here is my tank all ready to swap the pumps. I have both new pumps and o-rings in hand and ready to go! I just need to get my hands on the tool now!

    - Jason
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  7. 2dinos

    2dinos F1 Rookie

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    #1057 2dinos, Aug 28, 2015
    Wow!
    Just got caught up reading this. Unbelievable! Great job! Beautiful car. Drive it in good health.
     
  8. trygve11

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    #1058 trygve11, Sep 1, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    OK... a few updates.

    First SRI does not yet have full prime time ready hose ready yet for the car-- that means for any of the hoses! They are still tweaking the fit and fitment. As such, I have decided to go OEM for my water pump to distribution manifold hose. I may engineer an internal metal sleeve to go half way up the length of the hose and attach it with two hose clamps. This would greatly reduced the flex strain on the hose at the center portion which causes the fatigue and eventual rip through the side.

    On the fuel pump front, my local Maserati dealer was kind enough to lend me the ring removal tool today. So, I removed and replaced the old pumps. The new ones have an updated (yellow) plastic which is likely to address the issue of fracturing noted just a few responses earlier (or at least I hope so!).

    Here are some pics. Tomorrow I will reinstall the tank (which I never took out of the trunk- just leave it there while you move it around to replace the pumps as it is a very tight fit just to get in and out of the trunk itself).
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  9. BigTex

    BigTex Seven Time F1 World Champ
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    #1059 BigTex, Sep 1, 2015
    In some applications I have seen both inner, or outer metal springs wound around coolant hoses.

    Not a perfect world, usually means it's a bad/radical routing!
     
  10. jvecchi

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    #1060 jvecchi, Sep 2, 2015
    Any chance you can replace the rubber hoses with Aeroquip, Earls, or the like?
     
  11. trygve11

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    #1061 trygve11, Sep 4, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    More progress on round 2!

    New charcoal filter installed in rear left wheel well. New coolant hoses arrived and are installed. BTW, the hose looks a little different and the clamps for use have been updated to a new designed (no longer worm drive).

    New ($5) seat "easy out" switch soldered in and installed. Seat in car and working perfectly (lumbars and easy out functions!).

    Plenum is on and I've got to do intake and injectors on Tuesday.

    Have a great Labor Day weekend for those in the USA!

    - Jason
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  12. Nospinzone

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    #1062 Nospinzone, Sep 4, 2015
    Jason, did you get the special tool or did you find a work around?
     
  13. BigTex

    BigTex Seven Time F1 World Champ
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    #1063 BigTex, Sep 4, 2015
    A few posts back, he stated a Maserati shop loaned him one of the tools.
     
  14. Nospinzone

    Nospinzone F1 Veteran

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    #1064 Nospinzone, Sep 5, 2015
    Ah geeze, I read that post and missed that. I guess I was more absorbed by the photos!
     
  15. trygve11

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    #1065 trygve11, Sep 6, 2015
    I do have my own tool on its way in case anyone needs a loaner down the road...
     
  16. cam612

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    #1066 cam612, Sep 7, 2015
    Jason - my car has the same issue. Both seats won't move forward when tipped (although bizarrely after a battery disconnect they do, once).
    Where are the switches located? I want to see if my competency will stretch to having a fiddle with them.
    Thanks.
     
  17. trygve11

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    #1067 trygve11, Sep 7, 2015
    They are outbound hip location on each seat. You can get to them with the seat on but best to do with the seat out.

    You take off the rear seat cover, then the side panel with the switches, then the corner cover on the outside (outbound) location of each seat. Right in that area.

    You will need to order the exact part I ordered and then transfer the lever arm to you new switch.

    To test you existing switch, it is a simple continuity check with a multimeter once you have access to the switch/wires.
     
  18. quiquecars

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    #1068 quiquecars, Sep 8, 2015
    Hello trygve11 about the 612, i have an isue and maybe you can help me, the car has been without use for alsmost 3 years and now i need to use it but the clutch is stuck and the only way to get gears is with the car lift on jacks, before pull the trans a part do you have any idea of what to spray in to the clutch to make it work againb.
    thanks.
     
  19. cam612

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    #1069 cam612, Sep 8, 2015
    Thanks. This might be a little too challenging for moi, but I will take a look nonetheless.
     
  20. trygve11

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    #1070 trygve11, Sep 8, 2015
    Wow, that's a tough one. Sounds like the clutch disc got rusted to the pressure plate and flywheel. Sort of like what happens to my Quattroporte brakes after every time I wash the car. Then I just get in and move and they break (or brake!) free. I would try the same with your clutch. Put the car in neutral and start it and try to break it free. Make sure nothing is in front of you while trying to free it all up.

    Nothing you car really spray that would work. I guess you could try brake cleaner into the bell housing and then what I specified above.

    Good luck!
     
  21. m5shiv

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    #1071 m5shiv, Sep 8, 2015
    I would not try to mess around with it. I would replace the clutch.
     
  22. trygve11

    trygve11 Formula Junior
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    #1072 trygve11, Sep 9, 2015
    I disagree. It should break loose and clean up fine. Now I wouldn't go crazy trying to get it to break loose but an attempt or two is justified at $5K for clutch replacement. If you can drop the clutch on a car like a Ferrari like it is going out of style, then getting the clutch plate to release in the same manner is fine. The flywheel and pressure plate are fast rusting, high iron metals so they just need to break free and then will clean themselves up. My 612 was basically in the same situation when I bought it salvage. It had sat for a year and the clutch assembly was all rusted together per se. It had 80% life on it thought and cleaned up brilliantly and the unit is working perfectly. So much so that I have just shelved the brand new clutch I bought for it!
     
  23. Steen Jensen

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    #1073 Steen Jensen, Sep 9, 2015
    The clutch disc sticking to the flywheel is a common problem on Triumph TR-6 's.

    It has happened to me a few times and the conventional wisdom is to disable the ignition and put the car in reverse and hit the starter. It has worked for me every time.

    I don't know if it is possible in a modern 612 , but if so , worth a try.
     
  24. trygve11

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    #1074 trygve11, Sep 9, 2015
    Hopefully he has one of the rare manual trans cars! Otherwise just start and drive it with nothing in front of you! When you hit the brakes and force the car to stop, hopefully it all releases!
     
  25. m5shiv

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    #1075 m5shiv, Sep 9, 2015
    Are we sure it's sticking and not a clutch slave issue ?
     
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