Yes, agreed. I will video it! I may either then have to edit out the cussing if things don't go to plan though! If I am able to find the time today, I hope to get the engine to the point of having it on the engine lift and ready to place back in. So, with any luck, engine back in the car on Monday or Tuesday. I will likely leave all the cooling and air induction system off the engine for now and put it back on once the engine is in the car. This approach to removing the engine allowed me some freedom to leave the coil packs and other bits in the car (knock sensors, etc) and not fuss with removing them all. Also gives me more room to get my hands in and around the motor for reassembling exhaust and accessories. So last push with be the induction, etc. Getting the clutch, clutch housing and TO bearing, torque tube and tranny in will be a little work too. Probably still a couple weeks away from first start attempt. I bought a brand new clutch for the car but in comparing the the existing clutch, the existing clutch measures just about the same so I think I will put the existing clutch back in and use that until it fries. That way the kiss point should be fine and it should run without having to tow it to Chicago for adjustment. Time will tell...
Just for curiosity's sake, what's the firing order? Are all V-12s the same in that respect? (BTW, am loving watching this. Many thanks. Great work so far.)
More progress. New tensioner idlers being installed, new belts, setting timing, etc.. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Certainly looks like you know what you are doing. Nice set-up. What tensiometer will you use? Someone actually found an application that lets him use the mike in his smart phone as a frequency tensiometer.
I don't know what I'm looking at - but enjoying it nonetheless. Thanks for documenting this project - it's rare to see a car like this stripped down and rebuilt. Cheers!
Great progress! I'm sure it will be very satisfying to get the engine back in the car. And even better when you start her up first time... Keep going!
Well, the tensiometer question is a good one but may actually be overkill. I did try to locate one to purchase but could find one available. I am open to doing the tensiometer test but since the tensioners have springs and the springs to set the tension, the tensioners are then locked in place (and not allowed to continue tenioning the belts further after initially tightened in place, it seems that the set-up is rather static. I've tensioned the belts and upon doing the old Porsche belt twist test, they seem consistent. Also I've done about 100 timing belts and I "think" I know when things look right. That being said, if I could get a microphone and a program that could do some sort of fourier transform to provide me with the prominent frequency, I would do it! Perhaps I will look into this before putting the covers on! Thanks.
OK, I found a good app for my Android device and will try it on the belts and report back. Great suggestion! Thanks.
I went over to my shop and tried the app. It works well. You have to add the frequencies of the two longest legs of each belt. Mine showed about 240Hz which means I should tighten them up a little bit. I will do so on Monday. Thanks for the prodding!
Glad you found the app. The springs you see on the tensioner bracket are locked out so do not really affect belt tension after locking. Yup, that is a bit loose.
Delays, delays... Few comments. The app I downloaded for the tensiometer (frequency) measurements on the timing belt is called spectrum analyzer (android). So, bad news is that the tensioners were already at their max setting so when I tried to tighten one, it snapped the tiny little roll-pin that attaches a part inside the tensioner assembly. So that is now ordered (along with new springs and other bits for the tensioners). I will have these parts hopefully in hand by Monday. So, if the new tensioner springs and rebuilds don't get the frequency up to the 335-360 Hz specs, I will have to push further on the pulley manually to set the tension to spec. It was quite tight and close at about 280 Hz combined for the two spots you check and combine on each belt. Good news is I can do other work (manifolds and engine mounts now on, etc.) and I am out of town towards the end of the week so will not lose a lot of productivity waiting for the parts. Next key decision is whether to put the new clutch and throw-out bearing I ordered in the car (which will then require a kiss-point reprogram) or the existing clutch which appears to be almost new after measuring it relative to the new one. I am leaning towards using the old parts, cleaning them all up, and having the new ones ready to go for the next time around. Pulling the tranny and clutch is now child's play after all this other work!
Dude, it wasn't me that hydrolocked the motor. And if you look back at the thread, you'll see the rod that ended up looking like an "S". So a simple "turn-over and clear" on the motor wasn't going to happen. or... you're right! and I just wasted 200 hours and $5K...
We should have known, I suppose, given your normally well considered commentary. Even if you figure out how to use what emoticons are possible here though, it still wouldn't have been cute. Show a little respect. What the OP is sharing with us is extraordinary.
NYC Fred was asking about the firing order, I curious to that as well. This might be an odd question, but when viewed from the flywheel, how does Ferrari number their cylinders on the V12's? Is Bank L 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and then bank R 12, 11, 10, 9, 8, 7 so the numbering makes a "horseshoe" pattern? Thank you Very nice project.
Here is a graphical of the firing orders on Ferrari V12's. Mine is considered the "old", so the one on the right. Image Unavailable, Please Login