"High Performance Air Intake" on eBay

$100 for a piece of bent pipe seems like a lot to me.

 

Under the existing circumstances, IE: TB actual Opening and plate size (65mm) it can and does make a differance. If one looks at the opening on the TB, one can see it is noticably smaller than the hose. With this particular part beng the "bottleneck" a larger TB will make a differance,
As to the need to inncrease the runner size, IO you willsee some power gains without any changes there. One could go to the other end of the spectrum, and port it all the way through, then it would have more yet. Add biggercams and the list goes on a far as the wallet can run.It is a matter of personal choice. having done extensive flowbenckh testing on the TB isue I did find a 10% flow increae with the larger TB. Some food for thought...
On the 2 valve the most restrictive part is the air filter housing. Not the element, the inherent dsign. Side by side tests showed the 4 valve complete unit flowed 98% of the range it was runng, and the 2 valve managed a sad 74% of the same test range. This test was done with an adaptor in place simulating the Bosch fuel distributor, and the Flow Bench was not even shut off for the swap. and of course the test was switched back to verify several times
Kermit
BTW, on the carb unit, the right size innertube, turned unside out and glued to obtain a double thickness works quite well too.smooth but easy onthe pocket book. You can also use a single layer under the stock unit to retain the OEM look!

 

Would this bigger tube work for me since you bored out my TB? I can't remember how big you made it. 72mm?

 

the seller claims at the 2 ends of tube ther is a ruber hose to take the vibrasions from the motor . question is it enough ??

 

Thanks Gary, this is very helpful!
Take care
Vittorio

 

No possible way but ask them if they will buy you a new Fuel Dist. when it cracks.

The two couplers on each end will not absorb the rocking motion on the engine. Look at the bellows Ferrari used and see how it will fold up and expands as the engine moves back and forth, it is just like a CV Boot. They also will not asorb vibration and to make such a claim is BS.

Every once in a while Ferrari comes up with engeering that serves a reason...this is one of them

 

I personally think it's too risky for a 0.00062 HP gain

 

I want to see your Dyno sheet to support those #'s

Paul

just kidding....................

 

it looks good and that is all.

 

When I had my Subie WRX, I replace a good amount of the stock hoses with silicone SAMCO brand hoses. In some areas around the turbo for example, the hose increased horspower due to better flow characteristics. They have all kinds of colors and sizes.
-Nate

 

I have long felt that the designed appearance of the OEM black intake "accordion hose" left much to be desired in the engine room. And, after I discovered a small wear spot in mine due to slight rubbing over the past 25 years against the underside of one of the deck lid heat shields (circled in the "before" picture), I started to look for a replacement.

In spite of the several negative comments posted previously concerning this specific aftermarket steel replacement item, I felt that this overall design concept had considerable merit. So I purchased one thru the eBay auction referenced earlier and installed it last evening.

It's a perfect fit, and it took me all of 5 minutes to install. When installed and aligned correctly, there's about a 3/4" wide gap between each of the ends of the new steel tube and the corresponding plenum / fuel distributor flanges. These gaps are well covered by the high quality black silicone rubber connectors which were provided. Point being that these intentional gaps permit plenty of tube alignment flexibility and 'wiggle room' should the engine ever decide it needs to move about slightly. I genuinely don't see how vibration transmission between the plenum and the fuel distributor through this new tube could ever become an issue.

These tubes are available from the vendor in either plain finish or polished, and I ordered mine plain as I felt that this finish would better match the look of the rest of the bare aluminum castings in the engine room (which it does quite nicely, thank you). Finally, the new tube fits just a bit closer to the engine than the large outer pleats of the old accordion, so the slight deck lid rubbing problem that I had previously experienced is no longer an issue.

I have not yet had a chance to drive the car with this new tube in place. I frankly do not anticipate any notable performance gains ... and, since I did not buy it with this goal in mind, I will not be disappointed.

You are, of course, free to form your own opinions, and several of you already have previously expressed yours. But as for me, it's all good - I like it a lot and will be keeping it.

Enjoy - DM
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Dave,

I commend you for ignoring some of the comments. Please, please let us know your experience(s) once you have some miles under it. Thank you very much. It certainly is an attractive piece. Dane

 

I hope it works well without incident -- it should, as there appears to be plenty of rubber for flex at the ends.

I do like the way it looks... very clean. And it goes exceptionally well with that prancing horse oil filler cap!

 

Speaking of those....have you seen what they sell for on Ebay?! I should get into that business!

 

????????

 

While commend those who are concerned about the movement creating problems I am not sure it is as great of a problem as one thinks. I would temper that statement with the conditions of the mounts and reaction rod being servicable, and not broken. IMO the motor does not move as much as is thought, as I believe it would wreck havoc wiith the shifting etc. I just took these two pics of a 4 valve, and I note that the distributor to cam belt cover clearance is a shy 3/8" from the factory on this '85. Dave, I personaly like the one you have, and I am sure it will not cause problems My only thoughts on the use of tube is Aluminum is quite thermally conductive, thus adding more heat to the intake charge
HTH
Kermit
BTW: Tommy, that was a 70mm TB
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Not to hijack the thread, but did you ever get before-and-after dyno numbers on your throttle body bore mod?

 

Was wondering just how much the reaction rod would let the engine move myself. Doubt that engine can move more than +/- 3/16", if so, then flex in the rubber sections + fuel dist. mounting may be sufficient as Kermit surmises.

Would be easy to do a rough test, just use a ruler against the luggage compartment wall to measure movement while quickly revving the engine. Maybe not as much motion as having the engine rev'd & popping the clutch, or a sudden downshift w/o rev matching, but would give an idea.

 

Removed by self.

 

Several folks have previously expressed a concern with this new steel tube intake design from the perspective of engine movement and flexibility. Since this topic has been brought up, here's my take on it.

No doubt whatsoever that, in theory, any such intake tube should allow for the potential for engine movement and vibration relative to the car body without placing undue stress on either the intake plenum or the fuel distributor flanges. No arguments there.

But I observe a keen distinction between this broad philosophical theory and what is actually happening on the car. To prove the point, go out to your car, remove the existing intake tube, grab a hold of the intake plenum, and try to rock the engine back and forth. If you do this, as I have just done, you will likely discover that, like me, you will perhaps be able to move the top of the engine 1 to 2 mm at best. If you should be able to move it more than this, then your various motor mounts need immediate attention. Also, observe that the top engine dogbone mount is located very close to this intake system, and this mount automatically limits any potential relative body / chassis motion to a very small amount (again, assuming that the bushings at each end of the dogbone are in good condition).

Next, assuming that you are still using your old 20 to 25 year old OEM rubber accordion tube as I was, take a hard look at it. This is now hardly the "flexible" item that it once was, and which it still might be assumed to be based upon its outward pleated appearance. When you remove it, does it immediately spring back to its original straight configuration? Of course not. Age and heat exposure from the engine and rear header have almost certainly stiffened the rubber compound into a semi-permanent set, and if one were to try to stretch it very much today, cracking and splitting of the tube would certainly be the result. Looking critically at yours, do you see any damage done as a result of large amounts of relative movement of one end of the tube vs. the other? I very much tend to doubt it, which thus tells us that the tube is not actually flexing during use as much as it might first be thought to be doing.

Back on the assembly line years ago, the then-flexible new accordion tube would have been a natural product selection for this application. Car to car variations due to manufacturing tolerances would make it a bit difficult to precisely design an exact fit for this application using a rigid tube, so the original design of the accordion tube allows for a custom air tight fit for each and every car going down the assembly line. Then, time and heat serve to harden the tube into the unique contours which it has since assumed. This stiffening with age and use hardly matters for the intended purpose - in other words, splitting and failure of these old OEM accordion tubes due to motion and vibration caused by normal driving use is not known to be a typical owner maintenance concern for us.

Finally, re-read the post which I made earlier. I explained how the new steel tube has an intentional gap of about 3/4" on each end which is bridged by the flexible rubber sleeve connectors which come with the tube system. These joints, being spanned with new silicone based rubber sleeves (which is a far superior compound in terms of flexibility and heat resistance as compared to the older and cheaper neoprene compounds used with the OEM accordion), now allows for MORE overall flexure than does the 25 year old neoprene accordion! I can now grab the new steel tube and pull on it, wiggling it around back and forth quite easily. The pair of 3/4" gaps offers the potential for about 38 mm worth of total travel - wouldn't you think this is more than enough for this application?

I have thus concluded that the use of this new tube design offers an IMPROVEMENT in potential movement ability between the plenum and the fuel distributor as compared to the old OEM hardened accordion tubing - ironically the exact opposite conclusion reached by folks who merely looked at the picture and (in my opinion) unfairly prejudged the item!

( .... however, questions about horsepower improvement claims due to the hypothetically smoother internal air flow might be a different matter entirely!)

Cheers - DM

P.S. - Mike, since you've mentioned it, I've received several compliments concerning your yellow oil cap insert - most folks who see it think it is OEM since it looks "right".

 

Well, on the 70mm, No Mike. The last trip to the dyno, with a mondy, and a whole bunch of things, including CF intake (justifies post) I filled up at the local Shell station. Hey Schummi runs it! I didn't know they had a special on premium water with fillup. What a horror show, trying to set the fuel curve on the distributor. Pulling shims from the system pressure should fatten, it stayed the same, until it shut itself off as it wouln't make the 70 lbs to open the injectors with the new filters so plugged. In hindsight, we were just keeping up with the plugging, as the A/F didn't vary .1! Have it videod though, Cringe!
I would be fascinated to know if the smooth tube will produce more power. For so long, I have looked at it in disgust, muttering "tractor Radiator Hose". but as I seee textured bottoms on racing sail boats, somewhat like golf balls I wonder......

 

Yeah, I've been at Ferrari Club events when I've got the engine bonnet open and some other 308 or 328 owner will come up to me and see that and say, "My car is missing that" and want to know if replacements are still available!! I get quite a kick out of it.

 

From what I gather the ribbed hose causes more turbulance & better surface area for better combustion over a smooth hose

 

Thanks for all the contributions and comments on this product. Helps people to decide on things prior to opening the wallet.

I like the looks of this a lot, but I looked at the auction (ended), looked at his other auctions (none), and his website (no contact channels, and payment link does not work), so the well may be dry.

 

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