:)
Thanks for the update on the fitment. Glad it worked for you, and also thanks for the fitment information. If you've still got the original 61496700 ones that came off your early TR, is there a Sach/Stabilus part number shown on them and/or a marking showing "XXXN" (the force)? Since they seem/are so physically similar to the later TR ones, I guess the force is the only thing different (the later stock 61571600 TR front bonnet gas springs are 330N force).
It looks as though the originals are not the originals as 07/2008 looks suspiciously like a date and they are only 290N. The wrong Mondial ones are 295 so no wonder they faired little better! At your suggestion I’ll be keeping the OEM bonnet prop as per picture! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Fwiw I replaced the struts just now on my ‘87 with the ricambi number listed earlier. Easy install (don’t all TR’s have the driver’s (left) side access panel for the condenser?) without removing the fog light. 30min job. new struts are way firmer and more positive than old worn out ones. The old ones were same oem as the new Ricambi ones but differwnt part number. Not likely to have been original for sure.
" (don’t all TR’s have the driver’s (left) side access panel for the condenser?)" For sure my 1985 RHD UK Spec Mono/Mono's doesn't.
So what is the right part for 1990 Testarossa? Just got new from Ferparts and they don’t hold up the front lid.
Do a search using the stock Ferrari PN "61571600" for prior threads like this: https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/tr-hood-struts.517911 The short answer is that Rifledriver recommends using 60563300 from the Mondial luggage compartment which fits without modification and has a nominal higher force (460 N vs 330 N) so, if it's lost a little force by the time you receive it, it still works well (unlike the stock part which has very little margin to lose any force). My notes have 60563300 = Sachs SG437005-W and may be available from LiftSupportsDepot.com if you want to try to source it more directly.
I have had those in our Testarossa for over 10 years and they still hold the trunk lid up. I just remembered I installed them 12 years ago.
And you may never have to replace them again now that you're in TX . When I was in CO, I'd have to replace the stock ones, or even the uprated Balkamp ones, about every 2 years. Here in TX, the Balkamp ones that were on my TR when we moved here 14 years ago are still working fine. I can only think that the warmer/wetter air here in TX keeps the seals in better working order than the cold/dry air of CO.
Where I lived in California the weather was not terribly different. Hotter peak temperatures but lower average temps. A little lower humidity. The first 5 years of those struts was in California. In your case I wonder if atmospheric pressure was a factor.
Good day Steve, Just as a data point... I installed a set of front and rear clam struts (from LS technologies) on my Boxer in 2006 (16 years ago) and they still work perfectly. I live in an area with temps that range from -40F (or colder) to over 100F (a week or two at most) with humidity levels as low as 17% (as it is now) to around 60%. At times my Boxer is exposed to the temps directly (but sheltered without heat or AC), but most times the car is in an area with temps as low as 40F, but still with low humidity. There is no doubt that temps affect the expansion and contraction of the various strut components and seals, but I think the real issue is seal composition and how well it is lubricated. My strut replacements were made/customized for my application and so they used the latest and greatest seals they had + made some internal changes (valving, etc) to accommodate improved functionality (my struts have two "speeds"... max force upon opening and then mid opening force/speed is reduced to limit max extension "snap") and obviously reliability. As to cost... I think they were around $80 per strut and so were not dramatically more expensive that some after market struts. Cheers, Sam
Mondial has been working great on mine. Only issue is the ends were a teensy bit thicker so I couldn’t get the lower cotter pins back through.
I have to replace the front and the rear hood studs every 2-3 years stabilo can not found other in germany
Thanks to this incredible thread I was able to do all four struts on my 86 Euro. From Lift Supports Depot Stabilus SG402012 for the fronts (110lbs force), $19.97 Stabilus SG337001 for the rears (72lbs force), $59.95 I do have an access panel on the left side. And I used hair-pin clips instead of cotter pins. A bit of a fiddly job, but definitely doable and well worth it. Thank you F-Chatters!
This is a great thread. I purchased the stronger Mondial struts for the front and Stabilus for the rear engine cover. I followed the directions above to access both sides. I had to overcome one challenge that was addressed above but did not work for me. I could not get the front struts on the pin by pushing the hood more open and was afraid something might bend if i tried any harder. In the pic below, it looks like the strut hole is .250 inches away from pin but it is really about 3/16 inch away out of alignment. It was the same with the struts I took out as well. Rather than keep pushing on the hood, I cut a piece of wood (white) Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login and set it between strut and car frame. Then using a large screw driver I gently levered it onto the pin..very easy. Wood block was different length for each side. I don’t know if this is specific to my car but there was no way for me to compress the Image Unavailable, Please Login strut without removing the lights and I did not want to do that.
And for what it is worth the very first edition TR parts book shows an access panel on the left side above the AC condenser. I was working in a dealer when the TR was introduced and have never seen a TR without this removable panel. The carpet needs to be moved back clear to the edges of this panel to see the fastening bolts.
