Horn not working | FerrariChat

Horn not working

Discussion in '206/246' started by solly, Oct 20, 2013.

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  1. solly

    solly Formula 3

    Jun 2, 2001
    1,148
    Westchester NY
    Full Name:
    Dr. Steven S.
    1974 246 GTS. Haven't used the horn in years. Yesterday I had an emergency situation and pressed the horn button-no sound. After a few more presses got a weak beep. Today no beep no matter where and how hard I push the button. Spring works fine and returns the button to position after being pressed.

    I am not familiar with the horn circuit. Where should I start? I'll check the fuse first, but after that?

    Any pointers much appreciated.
     
  2. Pantdino

    Pantdino Formula 3

    Jan 13, 2004
    2,069
    Full Name:
    Jim
    When this happened to me a few years ago the problem was on the horn button itself--I don't recall the details, but lift off the button and look at the wire connection there.
     
  3. Nuvolari

    Nuvolari F1 Veteran
    Owner Silver Subscribed

    Sep 3, 2002
    6,603
    Toronto / SoCal
    Full Name:
    Rob C.
    First and foremost I would suggest checking to see if the horn itself is getting power when you press the horn button. The horn compressor is located next to the battery and is fed by a thick white wire. Especially if you do not oil the compressor they are known to go bad. I suspect that if you heard a little bit of noise that the compressor is on the way out and further pressings of the button maybe created a resistance to pop the fuse.

    The horn circuit itself is very simple and the horn is fed by a relay labeled 'Fiamm' that is made of black plastic and on the fuse panel. If the first test does not show power going to the motor assuming the fuse is good, then the relay might be bad. Between the horn button, the relay, and the compressor there is not much else to go bad.
     
  4. mar3kl

    mar3kl Formula Junior

    Nov 17, 2011
    467
    Silicon Valley
    Full Name:
    Mark
    When that happened to me it turned out to be a poorly lubed compressor. Bit of oil and it started working fine.
     
  5. 4redno

    4redno Formula 3

    Mar 21, 2006
    1,067
    Seattle, WA
    Full Name:
    Keith Mitchell Wintraub
    I did a bit of research and it appears that one needs only a few drops of light machine oil to lubricate their Fiamm air horn compressor motor.

    A bit more research suggests that Marvel Mystery Oil will do the trick. They make an air tool oil that looks particularly well suited for this application.

    Check out ::Marvel Mystery Oil:: for details.

    I'm going to give this a try and see if it boosts my air horns a tad.

    Cheers,

    Keith
     
  6. mechaniker

    mechaniker Formula Junior
    Owner

    May 30, 2004
    607
    Germany
    As Nuvolari said:

    Had the problem, that we forgotten to lubricate the compressor.

    The current was that hight, that the fuse burnt. After rebuilding and some Oil in the compressor, everything was fine!
     
  7. Nuvolari

    Nuvolari F1 Veteran
    Owner Silver Subscribed

    Sep 3, 2002
    6,603
    Toronto / SoCal
    Full Name:
    Rob C.
    Here are some photos of the inside of the horn compressor:

    Dino 246 Restoration Blog: Giving Dino a voice. The horn restoration

    For the best result I would remove the compressor, take off the lid and check the main bore and vanes to ensure they have no corrosion and move freely. It is important to note that these compressors take only A FEW DROPS of oil. The oil soaks a sponge that deposits light amounts of oil to the moving parts.
     
  8. solly

    solly Formula 3

    Jun 2, 2001
    1,148
    Westchester NY
    Full Name:
    Dr. Steven S.
    Thanks to all.
    Do I access the compressor from underneath the car or from the front spare tire compartment?
     
  9. 2GT

    2GT Formula 3

    Aug 25, 2008
    1,842
    Western NY
    Full Name:
    Fred
    I think that if you remove the battery cover you will be able to access it. I had this done on one of my Dinos a number of years ago. Fred
     
  10. synchro

    synchro F1 Veteran

    Feb 14, 2005
    9,294
    CHNDLR
    Full Name:
    Scott
    The compressor is a likely suspect but two others should be considered.

    I have found the above and also and another which is much easier to check from the driver's seat.

    1) Horn ground - as above, pull the steering wheel Dino horn push and check those side rails which contact the inner diameter of the steering column to make a circuit ground. This is the end of the "electrical chain" and if they're not contacting well or dirty then the horn may not honk.

    2) Broken wire in steering column - the contact wire threads up through the center of the steering column to the horn push button. With each turn of the steering wheel that wire is twisted and then untwisted - the same repetitive motion which typically breaks wires over time. As Rob said, check the voltage at the wire but I'd like to add that you should twist it back and forth to see if it maintains 12-13V.

    Hope this helps, I love my Dino air horns, so much character!
     
  11. Nuvolari

    Nuvolari F1 Veteran
    Owner Silver Subscribed

    Sep 3, 2002
    6,603
    Toronto / SoCal
    Full Name:
    Rob C.
    This is not actually correct. The wire in the steering column runs through the column, pops out at the base and is fixed via a ring terminal. When the column is turned the wire turns with the column and is not being twisted inside of it.

    What makes the contact between the column and the rest of the circuit is a carbon tipped spring loaded brush that touches a machined brass cylinder that is at the base of the column. This allows for the assembly to turn without stressing the wire. A quick look under the column without any dis-assembly will reveal this brush assembly.

    Perhaps the easiest test is to remove the horn button and touch the wire to the edge of the steering wheel hub. If there is no voltage at the horn motor, work your way to the brush, then the relay (always checking the fuse first).
     
  12. Condor Man

    Condor Man F1 Rookie
    Rossa Subscribed

    Sep 8, 2006
    4,938
    Los Angeles
    All very handy....

    Hopefully, I too can get my horn working!
     
  13. synchro

    synchro F1 Veteran

    Feb 14, 2005
    9,294
    CHNDLR
    Full Name:
    Scott
    Thanks, you're right of course ... unless you count a prior owner's dubious attempt at repair!
    :)

    Imagine, the 40 yr old Dino has slip rings
     
  14. solly

    solly Formula 3

    Jun 2, 2001
    1,148
    Westchester NY
    Full Name:
    Dr. Steven S.
    Finally found the time to get to it. I'm getting power at the compressor terminal when I push the horn button and I hear a distinctive click, and sometimes a wheezy attempt at a breath thru the air horns. So I'm going to pull the compressor, clean and lube it and see what happens.

    Lots of cheap FIAMM repro kits with plastic air horns for under $30, but the real metal ones are about $1,000 on ebay. Lots of posts about the repros not sounding very good. Worst comes to worst I'll swap out the compressor for a repro and keep the metal horns.

    Who knew horns would be $1,000???
     
  15. synchro

    synchro F1 Veteran

    Feb 14, 2005
    9,294
    CHNDLR
    Full Name:
    Scott
    Don't forget Rob/Paul have that original set for sale at far cheaper.

    I'd still do the easy test first and pull the horn button, test that your're getting 12V there and inspect the ground for resistance. A minute or two well spent
     
  16. Wheels1

    Wheels1 F1 Rookie

    Oct 23, 2007
    3,575
    UK
    Full Name:
    Grant
    #16 Wheels1, Nov 10, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  17. solly

    solly Formula 3

    Jun 2, 2001
    1,148
    Westchester NY
    Full Name:
    Dr. Steven S.
    LOL! but thanks for the info. I have never lubricated my horn. Maybe that's the problem.
     

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