hey guys, me and my father (also on the boards here) have been going through an extensive repair-a-thon on our vehicle. we've been having quite a show out of fixing one thing, and then finding another age related coincidental failure along the way. at this moment, our issue is largely a hot-starting problem. we found a failed thermo-time switch recently, and replaced this sucker down in the valley as we were getting a terrible starting delay, and no signs the cold valve had been working. as it is, cold-start is working great. we can take the car around the block, have a blast, get her really heated up, and pull her back on the drive and kill the engine (or stall... ) and then we're SOL, you can turn the motor over until you're as blue in the face as the car's paint color. as per "use the search function" policies, we have repaired or verified the following: -new dizzy caps/rotors/wires/plugs and gapped from the box correctly. plugs are OEM PN, no variance here with this. -spark plug extenders? yea, those are new too. -new injectors. i posted a bit ago here about rockauto having the matching PN for dirt cheap compared to other places yes, they're bosch. -the fuel accumulator - no leaks, verified holds pressure. is OK. we would have more cold-start symptoms as well. no fuel comes from the drain pipe. -fuel dizzy, works great when running, appears adjusted correctly, haven't screwed with the adjustment on the airbox EVER. -cold start system -thank-god, doesn't exist on this car. there is no cold start air valve like birdman has details about. -replaced any/all gaskets around the intake plenum and the hoses to the aux-air valve -we smoke-tested the intake system. pulled off the driver side, farthest forwards vacuum hose, and plugged our smoke injector right to the nipple. only place we had smoke come out of is the line coming from the oil separator. if the smoke is passing through the manifold, and through the engine, it should be normal i imagine to see this after a little bit. when we hot-start the vehicle, when it refuses to start, we have examined the engine compartment and the cis unit's metering plate. it does slightly pull down the metering plate enough, but the system does not buzz like the car does when cold-starting. -even when we disconnect the safety-switch on the metering module, we get the buzz, but the vehicle still refuses to start. -we are getting fuel. with a line disconnected, we have a strong-steady flow rate, even after the accumulator has spent it's load with the open line. we aren't talking just cracking a line, i'm talking with line off. we are getting a consistent flow and rate. this is further backed up by the vehicle being super responsive before the ignition is cut. it has a great power and tone as it did prior to these issues occuring. we have spark (verified all cylinders via inductive tool) we have air, with no detectable leaks via evap smoke system testing we have fuel operating as should. i would imagine any flywheel sensors wouldn't be the case here as the vehicle runs great prior to shutdown. faulty crank sensors would result in intermittent road operation i would imagine, by cutting the spark. anyone got an idea? maybe a batman spotlight with a bird image instead? any insight would help at this point.