Program wise maybe. Ive not seen a different set up loom wise .The very early 2.5 motronic 348 is different for sure but even the early 2.7 355 has a push button available. Later car diagram...Still showing parts.. 007-AIR-INJECTION-IGNITION
Is it possible that vapor develops and is trapped between the fuel pressure port and the injectors? Or is that port after the injectors? In the 90s we had (on totally different make and model, but with Rheinshagen/DELPHI wiring) water seeping into the loom which crept all the way into the sensor plups and sensors. In our case the TPS, but this can affect any sensor. Beware also of voltage drop when cranking hot based on reasonably old battery. The ECU can compensate, depending on make, down to 10 Volt. It also "adjusts" for too low cranking speed. For example your ECU requires a starter speed down to 450 rpm (example), but lower can and will be compensated for - to a certain extend. My next step would be adding jumper leads from another car to supply more power when cranking. And making sure the injectors are grounded properly.
What is voltage while cranking? If for whatever reason you went down the road of high torque starter and starter relay mod, possible there's a ground/voltage issue?
Do you have your original FPRs? If they are not leaking, Im interested in buying. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
I do and they are not leaking but I'm not interested in selling, I keep all my original parts in case I ever want to revert it back to all stock down the road
It cranks fast, voltage isn't an issue at all Ive also tried adding grounds to see if it helped and it didn't
Has a brand new battery and high torque starter, it isn't cranking speed that's the issue cranks very fast
Not voltage, not cranking issue, not crank sensors I'd check the cam position sensor on the back of the 1-4 bank since you say not fpr issue or coils/igniters. If it was timing , it would happen cold or hot, I imagine. Sent from my SM-G990U using FerrariChat.com mobile app
A video/audio clip, if you have one, of the car having a hard time starting would be good. BTW those crank sensors have a specified gap that is required and they both need to be close to each other. Could also be bad coolant temperature sensor.
I'm following this thread closely. I haven't had time to check my crankshaft position sensors but I did want to ask the original poster when he tries to start hot does it make that horrific sound like a metal cofferr can of marbles" or does it just not start?
Just doesn't start no metal can of marbles , I have car sitting on the lift right now so haven't messed with much, but I am about to go out there right now and pull flywheel and regrease will also check crank sensor tolerance while I'm at it I'll let you know if it fixes anything
I see. Mine is horrific.... it literally sounds like it has a thrown rod clunking around my wife came up with the metal can of marbles. I was so sure my problem was the flywheel Grease but what's startling is I repacked it and did an impeccable,, impeccable job and it is still making that clunky noise. I'm going to try to check my sensors tomorrow for oil intrusion, gap and wiring integrity but they're so cheap I think I'm just going to replace on principal to rule them out.
Check for a loose nut bouncing around inside your valve covers. What you describe does not sound good.
Can you narrow down the source of the noise with a stethoscope/rubber hose? Seems strange that the noise is only present with the car hot, especially after a regrease. My 355 had a distinct rattle (not quite a can of marbles) which I thought was a flywheel problem, but it turned out to be some bad spark plugs (I also changed a fuel injector and cleaned the rest). Oddly, the sound, to me, was louder than it felt (for an "imbalance").
I believe the sound is the flywheel and starter ratcheting as it's trying to start , albeit only when extremely hot, and again I thought it was the flywheel grease but it was not. The car starts flawlessly when cold or warm and then runs absolutely perfectly once started when cold, warm or hot. I don't want to hijack this thread but I'm beginning to wonder if maybe my starter is the problem here I'm considering pulling it apart regreasing it inspecting the brushes Etc maybe even replacing or rebuilding. Maybe the Bendix is going bad although the teeth appear perfect and not worn. I'll take it out this weekend and get it really really hot and try to duplicate and record the sound on my phone
Just an update. I removed the sensors today and cleaned them and checked the tolerances and by the way there are very. very thin aluminum shims used to set the tolerance. Mine had two shims per sensor they are very, very thin. My sensors were quite clean and free of oil and the harnesses were perfect as well as the plug connections. However I I did notice comparing the two sensors the "magnetic pull" was twice as strong as the other one which I thought was significant and strange? I went ahead and ordered a new pair just on principal to see what happens. Will report back.
Makes sense. The tolerance is just over half a millimeter (0.35~0.90mm). Sounds like one is on the way out. Heat does affect magnetism. Do you recall which one had the lowest magnetism?
I did a search of all the posts for two words, check and spark. Lots of "check", one "spark". Never both together, as in "check spark". ????????
If you use the "More..." button on the Search tab and type in "check spark", messages with both words are found (although a lot of hits are "check for spark" or "check the spark (plugs)") https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/search/237484750/?q=check+spark&o=relevance It even comes up with your message
I was referring to this thread. But it also occurs to me that these 2.7 cars are dual ignition, dual fuel pump so what do both banks have in common which would cause a no start? These engines will start and run (poorly) on one bank.
Exactly what I would check OP seems to rule everything out https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/posts/149055402/
