How do I remove this bolt?

You need a tie rod tool.

Sears for $29.99

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00930308000

 

EWWWWW That's so DIIIIIIIIIRTY!!!!!!!

 

looks like your car but WITHOUT all the PS fluid.

 

You'll still need the big hammer , but you'll need a special tool -- either a tie rod end puller:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=36861

(and sometimes you have to tighten the puller to the max and then hit the screw head of the puller with a hammer while it's "tight"), or

a ball joint separator (aka "pickle fork"):

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=38649

(which gets whacked directly -- the pointed end goes between the tie rod end and the arm of the spindle).

I prefer the tie rod end puller since the force doesn't get transmitted to other suspension joints.

 

Do I hear $45.00???

 

$9.99. that's a hell of a price.

 

you hit it

 

A question, is the nut and spindle turning while you are trying to get the nut off ? or do you just want to get the spindle out ?
The trip, in my ecperience is to hit the end if the link with a hammer, I usually put pressure on the nut so it will spring out !

 

There is a less damaging and usually very quick way to get it to pop apart. Using two relatively equal hammers, you strike one side of the steering arm over the bolt, while holding the other hammer hard against the other side. Usually the shock pops it out the first hit, sometimes its takes a few hits. You dont need to beat on it, just a few light hits do the trick.
The reason its in there so tight is that the bolt is tapered, but the hole is not tapered the same angle. When it tightens, it draws the bolt in slightly and thats why its so hard to tap out. You would probably destroy the bolt threads before it would ever pop.
A pickle fork absolutely mutilates the rubber boot, and after seeing a few pullers fly apart over the years, I try to keep from using them unless absolutely necessary.

 

get a gas axe and burn it off

 

Krowbar is closest so far I reckon.

Use a 2lb COPPER hammer, then you won't dent the steering arm. Or use a copper/brass drift and a steel hammer.

The idea is to shock the taper free by hitting the steering arm, NOT the joint.

And yes, joint seperators destroy the rubber boot.

 

see if you can tighten the nut back up and check that the threads are clean and
not messed up on the tie rod ball joint.
if that's OK I'd back the nut off and split it after you loosen the ball joint and buy another nut.

 

Do it Krowbar and Ferrarifixers way. Unless you just like buying tools.

 

in the past i did the same on my 308 the 2 hammer and it works.

 

Ditto.
Having someone put some modest leverage on the tie-rod up away from the hub while you knock the side(s) of the steering arm can help it to pop-out cleanly & not just re-grab (but it can get a bit crowded in there - alternatively I've used a bottle-jack VERY VERY gently under the tie rod just to overcome gravity's unhelpfulness when no assitant is around & the bolt is tight).

Basically by striking a blow on the side of the arm besidfe the bolt you are elastically deforming the arm's tapered hole a little, allowing the bolt to break-free.