How I made used door locks work with my ignition key (348)

So my car didn't have a door lock cylinder on the passenger side when I purchased it nor did the drivers side have any of the clips and springs which allow it to lock or unlock the door. To further the issues with the doors the actuators were completely gone. So, I decided I would throw no more than $200 towards this issue at the moment and only proceed if I thought this was possible. I purchased two Ferrari actuators from superformance in the UK for about $40 each and two matching 348 door handles from a 94 ts ($250 for the pair). I should be able to recoup $100-150 for the door handles without locks so I figured I was under budget which was nice and cheap to have working locks! When the door handles arrived with the lock cylinders intact they not only had all the springs and bits I was hoping for it also had a metal version of the plastic piece that always seams to break on these cars. It looks factory and not the HE part so this plastic piece must have been changed on the last year or so run after they figured out plastic was a not so smart material in that situation.

Now I decided to open my only door lock cylinder that came with the car to figure out how the lock worked. After seeing what the lock wafers looked like I tried several lock specialists to see if any had a re-key kit that I could use for the 2 used door locks I now had that didn't match my ignition key. No luck...

After looking at many 348 and other models that used the same key I figured out that there are about 5 different possible cut depths and that mine had 2 pairs of identical depths out of the 6 possible pins. This means that only 3 different depths were used on my particular factory key so what did the used door locks have I wondered that I bought from ebay? Well, it turns out after inserting my key I saw that only three were not correct and even if I switched them around it probably wouldn't be able to match up. So instead of taking the locks apart I simply used a dremel and shaved the three incorrect wafers down so that the lock would be free once my original key was inserted. Basically, only 3 wafers are keeping the lock from turning without the correct key in it instead of the normal 6. I don't see how this is any less secure because a thief who knows what they are doing will have no trouble beating our easily defeated locks anyways so now my ignition key not only starts the car but also unlocks and locks the doors! Plus the power locks will work once I finish installing the actuators which is a nice option.

In the pictures you can see where the three wafers still jut out of the cylinder with my key inserted but after grinding them to fit correctly there are no wafers sticking out which would keep the lock from turning as intended.

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Here is a couple pics of the cylinder as I disassembled it. There is a small metal bar/clip that holds the wafers and super small springs in place which needs to be removed if anybody decided to dismantle rather than grind down 2 or 3 wafers which aren't the correct depth.
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NOTE: Just wanted to make sure that if anybody does this to make sure you put your key in the lock BEFORE filing/grinding down the wafers that don't match.