How to adjust exhaust 308/328

On a 308/328 how do you adjust the exhaust height?
On mine the stainless tips are hitting the lower part of the black grill and you can hear it, particularly at idle.
I'd like to adjust it, but the support doesn't want to move ...

(see item 23 here http://www.eurospares.co.uk/userImages/009/Large/009_017.gif )

Does it adjust by turning the bolt on the top or by turning the nut close to the fork that attaches to the exhaust?
I don't want to apply too much force where it is not needed ....

Thanks!

 

loosen up the bolts at the exhaust biscuit but you may find that its not the bolts but rather the biscuit itself has rusted out causing the muffler to drop.

-Nate

 

What do you mean by "exhaust biscuit" ? Is it the two bolts that attach the"L" piece to the exhaust itself?
Sorry for the poor understanding of English ...

 

I think Shark 49 is referring to the "donuts" that seal the connections between the header pipes and the muffler. They can deteriorate and let things shift. In order to really adjust the exhaust and get everything lined up and leak-free, you will need to at least loosen the flanges where the "donuts" are located and probably replace them with new ones as they compress and can be difficult to re-use.

The "donuts" are part #10 in the drawing. There are 4 of them and they can afford a fair amount of adjustment.
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Thanks Shark49 and 2NA !
I will check it later today

 

Easy! Those OEM exhaust donuts get brittle after years of heat cycling. Exhaust 'height' adjustment, for me, was found at part # 46. The clamp has slotted holes that will allow you to raise the exhaust a bit without having to do a great deal at the donut-gasket union between the exhaust and the catalytic converter/track-tube. If you break/damage the donut-gasket, any good tapered 3" ID diesel truck gasket will work well to seal the gasses around the exhaust/Cat pipes.

 

He's also correct that the yoke on the bottom of the spring hangers is on a threaded stud, not sure how much adjustment is actually there.......

 

That was my initial idea, but after a LOT of WD40 there is no sign of letting go, either for the nut at the bottom or the bolt at the top .... I have even damaged the nut a bit!
But M.James idea is great, I'll also try that

Thanks!

 

Interesting, to me the "Spring Loaded Bolt Kits" that many Ferrari V8s (F40 and later 308/328s) use at the tri flange/donut gasket juncture are not depicted in that diagram..

Show of hands, how many cars use this system???

I noticed it on later cars it seems help keep the bolts and nuts from working loose and falling out......

 

You are trying to RAISE it from hitting the shroud?

WD40 is a poor penetrant for something that sees so much heat and moisture....try a specific product PB Blaster or something like that......

 

That diagram is for the European version, no cats. Maybe that has something to do with it ....
I know that the GT4, 308 and 328 also use part #23, don't know about the "Spring Loaded Bolt Kits"

 

That is correct, I'm trying to raise it. Check this picture:
I will try another product.
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Ricambi has them..if you don't, just make sure the long bolts at the tri-flanges use some type of "locking" hex nut.......crimped oval, split hex, or maybe a tack weld on the darn thing! LOL!

The rocking motion of the engine works them loose if not....

 

That's SO much prettier that our rear valence.....sigh.

Yes, I agree you want the tips more or less centered in the oval cutout.....but not so close to the paint you damage it!


Nice garage floor you have there!!!

 

Thanks !
Not very clean at the moment, but the big advantage is that it's quite easy to clean !
I need to work the walls, paint a yellow stripe with cavallino's and add a few posters, but the 328 has priority

Just noticed you're from Houston. I'll be in Houston in August, 18th to 27th at a friend's (also FChatter) house. Small world ...

 

There is some vertical adjustment available in items 23, but the vertical position of the tailpipes can also be changed (even more so) by "rotating" the whole muffler body as described in this jpeg. Exhaust pieces aren't super-precision parts so sometimes takes some rough pounding , but give this a try -- the design strategy is:

1. the header outlets are in fixed positions that vary car to car;

2. the muffler outlets are positioned relative to the coachwork (which also puts the muffler inlets in fixed positions that vary car to car);

3. the donut gaskets and the pipes that go in-between give the freedom needed to absorb all of the tolerances yet make the connections.
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Steve as always is totally correct...

Well, check in when you get to town, we'll get together and I'll show you my favorite spots!

That's the absolute HOTTEST time of the year to visit! LOL!

 

Fantastic description and image!! Thanks Steve !!
I will try that tonight.

 

Thanks BigTex. I'll get in touch. Do you happen to know Rick Lindsay? (he has a silver 308)

Yes, I know that, I was in Houston in August a few years ago and it was HOT !

 

Yes, we are in the Early 308GTB Brotherhood!

I know we have traded some messages, and maybe met at one of the local events..he's in the Woodlands?

You'll just miss a great concert there (Woodlands) on the 17th, no matter there's always somethig going on!

 

I've managed to adjust the exhaust tonight using a bit of all the ideias. I only had to unscrew the tri-flanges directly on the exhaust and then play with #46 and #1.
Once I had it where I wanted I've screwed everything back et Voilá ! Perfect fit !

A big thank you, guys !!

 

I believe he's in Spring, but I don't know where Woodlands is, so I can't help. He lived in Tulsa before, maybe that helps
We'll have a chance to meet in August !