DennisBob, if you send me your email address I can send you a word doc description of doing this job with photos. The positive side is you'll feel really attached to the car after this..... good luck, Richard
Artvonne, I've done this job several times. I'd say doing it in the car is it's about 4-6 hours more work than just doing a 15K major as long as the studs cooperate. IMHO the JWise project was an anomoly as no one else has reported running into the stud removal problems we had, including a major F* shop in this area. The 1st time I did the job, once I had the belts off & sump cover dropped, it took me about 3 hours to pull the timing cover. At least 15-20 minuites of that was in grinding down a 10mm wrench & flex socket. See this thread for a blow-by blow of my 1st timing drive project: http://www.ferrarichat.com/discus/messages/256120/21198.html As with anything on a 308, experience makes a big difference. Believe we pulled the cover in about 1.5 hours the 2nd time we did the JWise job. IMHO doing it in the car is a LOT less work than pulling the engine & separating the trans/sump case. If you can pull the engine, separate the trans/sump case in 6-7 hours or less, you work a lot faster than I do. Altho, there's a tad less stuff to disconnect on a carb'd car than on the QV's I've mostly been working on. Don't worry if you didn't put the engine on PM1-4 before pulling the timing cover, just make sure you put it on PM1-4 & align the notches on the back of the belt drive pulleys with those in the cover BEFORE you tighten the nuts. Since you've now got the ring nut tool, I'd stay with the ring nuts, but it's your car.
Hats off to anyone who has been able to remove the oil pickup tube not to mention the studs! I can barely get a hand in there much less tools and be able to turn them.
To get them off, you need an array of 1/4" drive extensions, universals, shaved down wrenches, etc. We used a little heat to loosen things up. The pich-up tube itself is not too bad, but it scraped the case as it came out. Just a little gentle back and fourth after the nuts were removed got it out. Removing the three studs was quite a bit tougher. We even tried using red loc-tite overnight on the locking nut (one nut on top of another) but that did not hold. We just kept at it with various wrenches and sockets and they came out. The second time we needed to remove them, the anti-seize we applied during the first re-install made the job a snap. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The trick to the pickup studs is a short 10mm flex socket and a couple of 12" or 14" extensions, along with using a ground thin 10mm box ebd wrench to hold the top nut while you jamed a 2nd nut onto the stud. The 10mm wrench with the ground thin box is needed to get one of the nuts on the pickup tube clamp off. A judiciously placed small ding from the ball end of a hammer makes reinstall easy. Just use a Sharpie marker to identify the tight spot during disassembly & apply the hammer before your degrease the pickup tube & remove the sharpie mark(don't ask). I don't know what is with JWise's engine. Every stud in it was seized in place & seriously didn't want to break loose. It wasn't just the timing cover studs, but also the oil pickup studs, & the studs between the sump & block. We broke off several of the timing cover studs, even after heating them well above the breakdown temp of loctite. I've wondered if the factory put it together with locking studs as an experiment. I've worked on quite a few 308s as well as many other Al engines & have never encountered studs seized in place like those were.
As a rule except for head studs, studs come out of Ferrari motors easily unless you come across what I call "an act of human intervention".
Well I finally got the cover off! (and I am officially a contortionist) All I have left for disassembly is to remove the inner bearings. They don't look bad, but since its all apart, they are getting replaced. Thanks to all the posters, your wisdom is invaluable! Don't go away however, I still have to put this thing back together! As a treat, here are a few of the okie tools I used to get this thing apart.. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Just so I have this straight, you have to remove the studs on the oil pick up, and case cover to get to the inner bearings? Correct?
Verell, I wonder if perhaps that car was exposed to salt spray? Winter driving? I have seen many cars up here that simply had every bolt or stud so frozen they just twist off. Yet cars from out of state come apart easily. On the subject of studs, and not to hijack the thread, are there any good suggestions other than obvious ones, to removing head studs? And really, is there any good reason to remove them?
Nope- she was in Texas her entire life until I brought it up to Maine 3+ years ago. I think the factory must have been playing around with some super loc-tite or something that day! There is no indication in the repair records that any of these studs had ever been removed in the past- and these records look complete.
Finally got it back together enough to start it up and it sounds great! I'm going to let it sit overnite and make sure nothing is leaking before putting it all back together. Thanks all, I could not have done this without each of your inputs. I think now, I'm ready to tackle the supercharger mod !
I have always just used a pilot bearing puller like you would use on the back of a crankshaft when doing a clutch.
