How to clone a black remote fob ....

I am taking a side step from this discussion.

I have a cloned fob. It is probably 1000 presses out of synch with the original fob that is working. I want to build a little circuit board to energizes a little solenoid with a plunger that repeatedly pushes on the out-of-synch fob until it get to synch up. It may take all day.

Can anybody recommend a 12V or even 5V solenoid?

 

Nothing new in any of their Q&A answers. The big deal is being able to read the PIN from the group of alpha-numerics in the EEPROM read-out. That is the trick Eric and I tried to understand and never could figure it out, even with a print-out on a red fob where we knew the PIN. The other thing they figured out, which we could not, is what in the alpha-numerics makes fobs part of a matched set. Each fob has an ID, which is all the Alarm ECU normally uses to arm and disarm the alarm, but we could never see the pattern for a matched set.

For that bit of sleuthing, they should be congratulated.

 

Were you aware that the red fob can only be used once? I hadn't heard that br fire

Also, what are they talking about re; matching engine ecu s to the immobilizer? What ecu s?

 

The reply to an email from the.

Hi Bob,

Thanks for your inquiry, we are offering a special price for pin retrieval
until the end of September, $739 US dollars.
That includes shipping the immobiliser back to you in the US, but does not
include any US customs charges or duties, which are at your cost. (I think
customs charges are unlikely because Australia has a free trade arrangement
with the US.)

With regard to a specific immobiliser being mated to the engine ECU:

Not an issue for the 355.
Not talking about CAT ecu's.
Talking about the engine management computer (- in a late 355 it's a
Motronic 5.2)


To clarify the mated immobiliser question:

On the 360 there are 2 engine ECU's ( Motronic 7.3) - left and right
side, one of them is mated to a specific immobiliser system and will only
"work" with that particular immobiliser ( in simple terms some data is sent
from the immobiliser when its disarmed that is flashed to the engine ECU the
first time they are powered up. During subsequent start up sequences the
same data is expected by the engine ECU in order to "go" .

If a new immobiliser system is fitted to a 360, then the engine ECU's need
to be swapped left to right as well, so that the unmated "virgin" ECU loads
the data from the immobiliser and then works as normal. There is no way of
telling if the ECU swap has been done previously, so there is a chance that
an immobiliser swap still won't let the engine run. Ferrari sell new anti
theft systems for 2k and new engine ECU's (have to buy in pairs) for 4K US.

Our pin retrieval avoids all this, because we can retrieve the pin from the
immobiliser that is fitted to the vehicle and is mated to the ecu. So there
is no need to buy a new anti theft system or new ecu's.

Owners who don't have the PIN code can apply to Ferrari (through their
dealer) to get the pin that was on the immobiliser when it left the factory.
Ferrari don't guarantee the code will work with the vehicle , and sometimes
it doesn't.
The pin code could be different because a new set of fobs have been mated to
it or because the immobiliser has been swapped over the past 15 years and X
number of owners.


Karl

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
This email, and any attachments, may be confidential and also privileged. If
you are not the intended recipient, please notify the sender and delete all
copies of this transmission along with any attachments immediately. You
should not copy or use it for any purpose, nor disclose its contents to any
other person.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Ferraris [mailto:[email protected]]
Sent: Friday, 12 September 2014 5:29 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: 355 Immobiliser

WHat do you charge to retrieve the pin from a 355 Immobiliser?

The q/a you have re: engine ecu matching the immobiliser. Is this not an
issue with any 355s? ARe you talking about the CAT ecu s?

 

so you have to ship the immobilizer and not a remote ? is that right ?

I would not risk it, I would prefer to risk the $500 with Ferrari getting me the code. I was hoping they could get the code from the key FOB and then I could just send them a cloned one that I got from Gobble...too bad by now its well over a 1,000 clicks from working (I didn't know at the time I should be swapping key fobs regularly to keep them synched).

 

Bob- Yup, well documented here in the document I wrote quite a while ago.

Mike- If you have your red fob, they can pull the code from that, too. Otherwise, no other choice than to ship the Alarm ECU, which they refer to as an immobilizer.
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

dont have the red, only have one black and 2 cloned black FOB's...everything works fine guess I will leave it alone, just thought it would be cool to have the PIN code.

 

Mike- Cool, but expensive. Good news is they can convert your original fob and 2 clones to work like an original set of three. Nice to have all three work without a bunch of extra button pushing. But you would be watching the mail pretty nervously.

 

Hello,

My name is chris from austria! I own a F550 and bought my dutchess with only one black fob. two years ago i found erics procedure at the internet and thought ok i will do that that way; i'm working at an electrotechnical office and so we have the possibilitys to put the eprom out, read it out and cloned it.
i bought two fobs, a red one and a black one from ONE set of a F360. we put the eprom of both fobs out and replaced it with new eproms with the written information of my black one.
all was great all THREE fobs were working fine - two weeks ago i tried the red one and the black one (of the ex F360) again and there were working fine, than i put them into my safe for six month and after that time i tried them again - there were both NOT working any more, also not with new batteries!! What happened? I don't know, until this i'm searching for the reason but i find no answer - i do everything in the same way than eric in his manual...

So my question, do you know this problem or have you any idea about that story?

I have some bad pictures also, how i replaced and programmed the eproms of the fobs.

Best Regards Chris
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Hello,

My name is chris from austria! I own a F550 and bought my dutchess with only one black fob. two years ago i found erics procedure at the internet and thought ok i will do that that way; i'm working at an electrotechnical office and so we have the possibilitys to put the eprom out, read it out and cloned it.
i bought two fobs, a red one and a black one from ONE set of a F360. we put the eprom of both fobs out and replaced it with new eproms with the written information of my black one.
all was great all THREE fobs were working fine - two weeks ago i tried the red one and the black one (of the ex F360) again and there were working fine, than i put them into my safe for six month and after that time i tried them again - there were both NOT working any more, also not with new batteries!! What happened? I don't know, until this i'm searching for the reason but i find no answer - i do everything in the same way than eric in his manual...

So my question, do you know this problem or have you any idea about that story?

I have some pictures also, how i replaced and programmed the eproms of the fobs.

Best Regards Chris

 

Hi Chris,

as I already told you on our german chat site
your fobs are "out of synch" - the alarm ecu is looking for the correct "rolling code"

when you clone a fob, you copy the memory of your original ... so you only have a back-up
all the rolling codes in your original fob are now stored identically in your clone

the rolling code changes every time you press the button -
(it is designed to avoid recording your coded signal)

each time you press the button of your fob, the alarm ecu looks at the rolling code to see if it has been already used -
this is why you have to swap and use all of your fobs on a regular basis

to get your fobs/alarm ecu "re-synched", you will have to press the clone button often enough until you find a rolling code the alarm ecu has not already seen

good luck

 

You say that the fob does not work. Are you getting the red led light on when you press the button. I have this problem with two fobs I have and do not know whether it is the fob or the rolling code issue ?

 

I'm new to this thread. I have a 2000 360 Spider European model with only one black remote key fob and am looking for someone to clone this for me. I can purchase a new black European remote from a guy on Ebay. He says he can do the cloning but I would have to send the remote to Europe which I am hesitant to do. Is there anyone here in the US that can clone the remote?

 

You're new so some slack is appropriate : it often helps to read a thread before you post in it as practically every other post in this very thread refers to Gobble in the US for cloning !!!!

Having said that if the European is Eric355 then he has done many fobs too for members here both US & Europe

 

Before you clone your fob that does not work do this. If you have only been using ONE fob and the unused one appears to NOT work the "rolling" code as mentioned above is way behind the curve ..... Get a cigar, a beer, and have a seat with the one that does NOT work. If the red light comes on every time you press it, you may have to sit there and press it 100 plus times to get it to "catch up" to the rolling code of the fob you do use. Every drive I switch fobs, it still on occasion takes 3-5 presses on the fob to get the beep/lights to activate and turn the alarm off.

 

It will take more than a cigar. My fob is 3 years out of synch. I will have to build a circuit that activates a solenoid for this.

 

I got it, find a young kid in your neighborhood tell him to keep pressing the fob button until the car "beeps" at him. Reward would be a drive around the neighborhood, free patience and tolerance training included.

 

That is the most innovative thought yet. I have several kits in the neighborhood that is up for that.

 

Never more than a few minutes of pressing to synch. There are not that many rolling codes per FOB. Sometimes it is surprisingly quick.

 

Is the rolling code thing only an issue with cloned fobs?

I have an OEM set and the red and one of the blacks are still in the wrapper they came in so I assume they have never been used, just the one that is in the car.

Should I be using that other black one as well or again is this just a cloned unit issue?

Thank you

 

clone issue ...
the new ones will work directly out of the box ... no matter when you start using them -
because their contained rolling codes have not yet been seen by the alarm ecu ... but the ecu "knows" what to expect

 

I have pressed the cloned fob a few hundred times already to no avail.

 

Did it ever work? Maybe an unsuccessful clone?

 

It was the original one I sent to get cloned. After that, I put it away and used the clone for 4 years. Battery is good, light comes on, but it is hopelessly out of synch. It has to be pressed thousand of times and my finger will not last.

 

These are hopelessly crappy FOB's. They are subject to battery strength and contact pressures even if red light blinks on a strong signal might not be sent. I just resynched a FOB clone not used for maybe 2 years and it synched up fine. Trick I use are 1-new strong battery, 2-pinched connections inside the FOB, 3-spin battery in the FOB for contact, 4-eraser the FOB contacts fresh, 5- press FOB while FOB is inside the car on passenger side by the antenna, 6- the action I use is press 1000, pause1-1000, 2-1000, then press again.

It is possible to unintentionally trigger the danger emergency feature in the alarm. I just posted about that yesterday. hold press 3 seconds and it goes off.