how to cut and fold photoetch parts?

Sharp scissors to cut them from the window, and for bending I use different wooden
cilinders in various diameters and blocks.

Over the years I made several different shapes and sizes using hardwood.

Hans

 

I use these http://www.hiroboy.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=477

I also use sharp scissors to cut the parts from the sprue as I have had trouble with small parts bending when using a knife.

 

The trick with using a knife is to use a heavy-gauge *curved* X-acto blade, and a hard flat surface (one of the best is a "Corian" (yes, the fake granite/marble stuff for kitchen counter tops) sample that you can buy at any Home Depot.

Place the frame on the Corian, use low-tack tape to hold the part in place (lest it go flying off to be lost in the carpet), and then *roll* the edge of the blade over the cut point (use low-ish pressure, and repeated rolls over the cut point). After maybe 6-10 rolls, the part should pop cleanly off...

Be sure that if the parts have some sort of pattern etched into them, that the flattest side of the sprue to the surface that is placed against the Corian.

Cheers,
Alex

 

Thanks, ill have to give that a try. I was doing it on my cutting mat which probably didn't help.

 

Yes, a cutting mat will be way too soft.

While something really hard like the Corian is best, it will dull the blade pretty quick. This is why I say that you need to use relatively light pressure; enough to work through the sprue, but not so much that you flatten the blade on each cut.

Depending on the specific part, it is sometimes just as effective to use a block of maple (again, go to Home Depot and get a hardwood-flooring sample). This will dull the blade less, but in some cases will still be just a touch too soft a surface.

Cheers,
Alex