F8 How to deal with the engine bay when washing the F8

Best to do it when the engine is cold so that the soapy water won't instantly evaporate and leave a residue. Otherwise just avoid spraying directly into the engine bay. It has to handle a bit of rain so everything under there is sealed to a reasonable degree. Then wipe it off with a wet cloth (hence the best to do when cold!)

 

Water that enters while washing the exterior of the car is not a problem. Ferrari did design the car to be driven in the rain. However, there are precautions you need to take when washing the engine directly. I suggest you take it to a professional detail shop for that unless you want to spend time covering up specific sensors and parts of the engine. If you do decide to wash the engine, do not use a pressure washer.

 

I have never water washed any of my high end cars. Liquid detail spray works well. Little by little water becomes trapped between screws/bolts & will begin to show oxidation or rust. I use cotton industrial gloves to tackle the engine. Microfiber cloths dampened with liquid detailer gets rid of dust and small debris. Yearly I take the belly pans off and clean engine components as mentioned. I don’t understand why folks water wash brand new cars(unless they drive the crap out of them in unfavorable conditions).

 

Seriously. I mean, seriously, is this a real question?

Do you think Ferrari makes cars that melt at first contact with H20?

Like, what do you do when it rains?

Drive with a tarp over your F8?

Have your chauffeur shadow you with an umbrella covering your car?

Oh, wait, nevermind, this is FChat. Ferrari owners don't drive their cars in the rain.

Carry on.

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I too wash when the car is not hot from driving. I just let the soap and water fall in through the slits in the Lexan cover as I’m washing/ rinsing with the pressure washer. Once I’m done I blow dry the engine bay just like the rest of the car. I wipe down the engine as needed with a microfiber towel. Don’t overthink it. It’s just a car. Put the manettino switch in wet mode too.


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I avoid directly spraying water into the vent openings. Otherwise, I wash like any other car and blow the bulk of the water off with a blower.

 

From my buddy Larry @AmmoNYC

ENGINE
The first step in the Cleaning sequence is the engine. You can choose to do the engine or not, or perhaps do it every other wash or every other, other wash...it doesn’t matter, but if you choose to clean it as part of the system, then doing it first is important. So for the sake of continuity, lets assume you are going to give the engine a maintenance clean, not a full-blown engine detail.Before you get started with any section, take a look down to the RULES to make sure to adhere to the directions prior to possibly damaging the car or hurting yourself. In this case, make sure the engine is at most warm to the touch, but never hot. Avoid soaking any part of the engine with water, especially the alternator or any electrical units. Make sure to wear protective gloves and glasses.After opening the hood, step 1 is to quickly remove any leaves or debris stuck in the HVAC vents or hood jambs by hand. If you have an older engine, or are very concerned about water, you can cover any sensitive parts in a plastic bag, tin foil, or saran wrap, but most modern engines can handle a light spray of water with no issue.In a modern plastic filled engine, adding protection from light water spraying may be unnecessary. However, older engines should be protected from water sprays, including alternators, wires, fuses, or anything electric, just for piece of mind.Remember our methods. Pre-rinse, Wash, Rinse and Dry. First, pre-rinse the engine with a wide nozzle sprayer to lightly coat the plastics. Next, spray AMMO Plum wheel cleaner to help cut through the grime, or use a heavy degreaser if you are working on an older leaking engine.Quickly agitate the crevices with your wheel brush and your wheel woolie for the hard to reach areas. Do not allow the product or soapy lather to dry! Remember, the warmer the engine, the faster it will dry. And if it does, the lifted dirt will only relocate itself to a new area on your engine without being washed away. You are, in essence, just moving the dirt around the engine bay, which is useless. Then, lightly rinse the cleaner away with a wide-angle nozzle using the least amount of water necessary to remove the suds. Next, use a terry towel to dry the surface and jambs. If you have access to a compressor or master blaster, use it here with your towel to work even faster, but they’re NOT essential, so don’t worry if you don’t have them. Keep in mind that this is not a long process, maybe 4-5 minutes at the most. You are simply maintaining the engines appearance and this should not be an all day project. Finally, close the hood until the first latch catches, but not all the way. You will need to get back under the hood at the end of the wash process so don’t make more work for yourself.

https://ammonyc.com/blogs/learn/chapter-104-essential-car-cleaning-steps

 

This is the way

 

No

 

In my better than 50 years detailing high end cars of any kind, I have NEVER used soap. The correct way is to wash one panel at a time, spread some water on it and wipe it with a soft towel and then dry it off before moving to the next panel. Also, NEVER do it out in the sun and for that matter ALWAYS make sure that the body has cooled off before any washing. What you should use between washes is a "duster" from say Gratiot that works spectacularly and helps prevent any dust build up to occur. If you periodically dust it, you will find that you will be able to wash it less often. I also raise my engine compartment cover to let it cool off after driving. As for the engine compartment, the same rules apply, do it a little at a time with a damp rag. With all the electronics in a Ferrari I would never get that engine wet. Simple things like this will make yours last 50 years or more as well.

 

Makes no sense to not use a mild soap which which lessens any fritction when washing a car.

Why dry a panel if you are washing in the shade and you are going to get water on the panel you've already washed? If washing in the cool shade or indoors you can quickly wash the car with a mild soap, rinse and ry without any concerns of the water drying. Worse case you can use a detailer to get rid of any water spots.

 

Without soap as a lubricant you risk dragging the dirt over the paint and scratching.

 

The paint on my cars, some of which paint is nearly 50 years old, remain in SHOWROOM condition as new! Soap is not a lubricant, soap leaves a residue and dulls the paint especially if it dries whatsoever. More imortantly, it is NOT needed and is a waste of time!

 

This is the reason I wrap all my F cars with PPF. You can throw whatever you want at it and never worry. So much easier than dealing with micro abrasions etc. Engine bay , what engine bay ? I have a spider and can’t see a damn thing.

 

Maybe you have different water in Chicago. LOL.

 

It makes no sense to use soap unless you have so much dried up dirt on the car after driving through rain soaked pig pen........And for all the greenies, why WASTE the water unnecessarily with a running hose ha ha. And so now you have to use a detailer, oh brother, sorry you do it your way I'll do it mine.

 

Our water is perfect here, poor assertion. Try again.........

 

I do the same but sometimes they need a good wash especially if you have been through the rain or a roadtrip.

 

Totally agree. That’s why I don’t worry how it’s washed (with the PPF )or with whatever products. Call me crazy.