how to Hardwire Valentine 1 in a 355??

Hi Gordon,

I just did this to mine not too long ago. It took me a while to figure it out, but once I did, it really isn't that hard.

I found it easier to route the phone cable through the passenger side of the vehicle, vs. the driver's side, as the fuse box is in the passenger side foot well.

I am assuming you are planning to install the V1 at the top part of the windshield, which IMO is much less obtrusive than attaching it to the lower part just above the dash. To drop the headliner just enough so that you can hide the phone cable, you will need to remove the screws that attach the sun visor. You can then pop the headliner loose (there is I think a snap that holds the headliner up, if I remember correctly), and insert the cable in there. Just leave enough slack to allow the V1 to be installed properly. Reinstall the headliner and the visors.

Then run the cable down the A-pillar. I used a plastic spatula to push the cable between the glass and liner. It is a tight fit, but preferred doing it this way vs. removing the liner itself. At the bottom of the pillar where it meets the dash, you can thread the cable behind the dash via the gap between the right-rear end of the dash and the door jamb. I hope you understand my descriptions, if not, PM me and I will take some photos.

OK, now that you are underneath the dash, you can install the V1 power outlet the cable plugs into, by using velcro or double-sided tape to any flat surface you see under there. There is a wide metal panel that goes horizontally just behind the heater ducts that you can use for this purpose.

Power for the unit is tapped from the fuse box. Remove the foot well fuse box cover (I assume you know how to do this), and locate the fuse that supplies one of the power windows. This is energized by turning on the ignition, and is not a constant 12V+. I find this VERY convenient, as the V1 will turn on and off automatically with the ignition switch. Verify this using a voltmeter or a test light. (Somebody mentioned using one of the vacant relay slots for power, but I tested every single one of them, and none of them gave me ignition 12V+, only constant 12V+.)

Remove the fuse and replace it with this little gadget:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=071-580

and tap the + wire from the V1 power outlet into it. Or, you can modify the fuse so you can insert power, but I think this is a much cleaner install. Connect the other wire to ground, put everything back together, and you're set!

You might want to keep your V1, vs. installing a hardwired K40, etc. IMO the V1 is the best radar detector, bar none! JMO, of course.

Anyway, hope this helps. Just let me know if you have anymore questions.

Regards, Alex

 

Hmmm, just realized you have a spider. I have a B, but I think the only difference would be the headliner part. I am not sure how it looks on the spider, but you can probably find a way to hide that cable at the top part of the windshield.

Regards, Alex

 

I did mine the same way, fishing the phone wire down inside the “A” pillar. I placed the V1 just to the right of the rear view mirror so it can not be seen from the driver’s seat and used the V1 remote display mounted on top of the steering wheel housing where the serial number plate is. I ran the wire for the remote under the dash and fished it up behind the steering column. I think I used a stud by the fuse box for ground. The cover for the “A” pillar just pops out, as does the surround for the headliner.

The whole installation is hidden, and very easy to do.
The piggyback fuse holders are available at most auto supply stores.

 

I drove my 360 today from Culpeper, Va to Winchester with average speeds of 80-90 on 29 and 81, the Valentine 1 save me 3 times, its one hell of a radar detector!! I have mine on my visor, but I just unplug it real quick when it goes off!

 

I found a screw or bolt that attached to a panel just above the fues box, but really any existing bolt attached to the chassis would do. Just remove that bolt and attach the ground wire to it. LMK if you need a picture.

Alex

 

Yeah, it has saved me numerous times as well.

I have also driven with numerous friends in other cars who had radar detectors of other brands and the V1 consistently gave an alert WAY ahead of everyone else. And I don't necessarily have to be at the head of the pack! We had two-way radios to compare response times.

I also love the directional indicators. It tells me whether there is a bogey at the opposite lane, or is behind following me!

HTH,

Alex

 

Bringing this old thread back to life... (Almost 7 years since last post!)

I used the instructions above to pull away the headliner and run the power cord from the top of the windshield to below the dash on the drivers side.

However, instead of hardwiring traditionally, I bought the Savvy accessory that Valentine Research now sells. The idea is that it plugs into the OBDII port, and uses the speed signal to auto-mute the V1 below whatever threshold you set it (so you can cruise through a parking lot below 30 mph and not have your detector going bonkers from the door sensors at the grocery store or whatever). Anyway, a nice side benefit is that the Savvy also pulls power (and ground) from the OBDII port, so there's no real hardwiring, or fuse tapping to do. You don't have to find a ground, etc... Just plug in, tuck away the wires and go.

My only concern now is the mount itself. Currently using the suction cups, and think that they're ...ok... would like a better solution if anyone has one.

 

Somewhere on here is my wiring the V1 into a spyder.
I need a better connection into the fuse box so it powers off with the key.

Anyway, I have the main V1 on the visor with thick cardboard between the clip & visor to protect the visor.

And I have the "Concealed display" just sitting in the center of the dash below the Vents on above the radio.

I had lots of trouble with telephone cords/V1 power - they are not all created equal.

 

Hi Alex, I wouldn't mind a few photos to help me out with this.

Thanks,
Alvaro