How to put a Mondial on a mid rise scissor lift

I own this midrise scissor lift I bought from TOOLOTS.COM last Oct precisely to work on this car and drop my engine for this EV conversion project
https://www.toolots.com/mid-rise-scissor-lift-110v.html

I'm not sure what the issue is.
- I have a garage in SF so length between the garage door and where steps start to go to the main level of the house is limited.
- I staged the car so it is as far back as possible while still allowing garage door to close without hitting the bumper.
- I then measured the car so that the flat part (before the ramp) was as close to the rearmost point of the front wheel wells.
- With a friend watching, I drove the car up and over the lift. I stopped after the front wheels cleared the flat part of the ramp (but haven't left the ramp)
- The rubber blocks went on the flat part of the frame rails; one pair is as rearward as possible (in front of the jackpoints because I wanted the subframe off the flat part of the lift) and the forward pair is just an inch or two back from the wheel well (immediately behind the jack points).
NOTE: if you reach under there, you can feel the metal tubing of the frame itself. That's what's resting on the rubber blocks.
- Once the car was in the air, I removed the rear ramps. This gives me enough room that I could (and already have) dropped the rear subframe without hitting the ramps.
- The car is stable w/ and w/o the rear subframe engine and w/ and w/o weight in the front nose (headlight assemblies, front spare wheel, front wheels, front suspension, and front bumper). Most of the weight of the car is still in the cabin and that's over the flat spots.
- A lift table (https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-hydraulic-table-cart-60438.html) helps with removing the subframe but if you just have a strong enough board with casters, you can remove the wheels, drop the subframe onto the board, and then lift the body up so you can pull the subframe out.
- Perhaps the trickiest operation was removing the gas tanks. TO do this I lifted the car up using the ramp, placed some jack stands under the cross frame that the rear subframe sits on, and then dropped the lift all the way down. NOTE: I did this with the subframe out so the tanks could go down and then back. Thanks to #@$@#$ italian engineering, you need to move the tanks towards the centerline of the car so that the tanks (which have a concave face/dent on the rearward side) can clear the circular cutout in the frame crossmember that the shifting assembly runs through).
- Once the car runs again, I'll reinstall the rear ramps on and when parking the car, I'll drive over the ramp until my front wheels hit a 2x4 or wheel chock I'll place on the ground to tell me to stop. This should give me room to exist up the steps.

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Left to right or front to back?
FWIW, I've literally stood on the rear bumper to remove some difficult parts (like the rivets holding the cover to the floor of the rear trunk and the car felt solid on the lift as balanced.

As far as rubber blocks, these look cheap enough. although I might want something that's closer to 2" than what I found here
https://www.amazon.com/ToolUSA-Rubber-Block/dp/B003KJ3T8I

Personally, I wouldn't just get "thin material" like a floor mat or inner tube material. I think you want something to support the hole weight of the ~2" frame tube without bowing.

-g