I need to remove the master cylinder on my '83 '400i but I'm making no progress. The first roadblock is to remove the plastic brake fluid reservoir. According to a Google search, these plastic reservoirs plug into the MC, with a rubber grommet to help seal. I am attaching a drawing of the MC of a 365GTC/4 that shows the tubes -- ## 4 & 8 -- where the reservoir goes. My reservoir is already a bit crazed with cracks in its plastic body. As I gently pried at the end of the reservoir closest to the booster, all that happened is that a new crack slowly developed, in an arc shape from the bottom of the reservoir toward the top. I also pried at the front. No cracking happened, but no movement happened either. So first question is, how to remove the reservoir? The second roadblock is that, having decided to remove the MC and reservoir as a unit, I removed the four nuts from the studs on the booster, which hold the MC to the booster. But the MC will not budge. Another Google search found this thread in the 365GTC/4 forum: http://www.365gtc4.com/Forum/Default.aspx?g=posts&t=922 . (This thread is also the source of the drawing below.) The OP JBishop posts that, in his 365GTC/4, the inner fender and the end of the MC are so close that there's no room to slide the MC off the booster studs. So he removed the booster and MC as a unit. He writes that it was not difficult. Is this the way to proceed in the 400i as well: to remove the booster and MC as a unit? Is it as easy as JBishop leads one to believe? The third roadblock is that I tried to separate the MC from the booster, after removing the four nuts, and it does not want to budge. I even inserted a flat blade screw driver at the mating point of the MC and the booster and tapped the handle with a hammer and this did not force the MC to part from the booster in the slightest. The screwdriver merely put a small scar in the flange of the MC, at each corner where I did this tapping procedure. How do you separate the MC from the booster? More questions: where should I go for a new reservoir? There is this one from a supplier in Germany, asking EU 175 ($225): http://www.ebay.com/itm/380252197977?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 . But it says it's for a 308 GTB or 512 BB, and does not mention our cars. Would this work? Eurospares -- http://eurospares.co.uk/searchResult_one.asp?S=108802&TM=1&TMo=652&TA=1&TB=37696 -- lists the reservoir under the same part number for the 308, the Mondial the 512BB, the 400, and the 400i. Eurospares lists two prices, EU 200 (in white letters ($257)) and EU 258 (in yellow letters ($351)). I don't know why. Do the yellow prices mean "shipping included"? Rutlands lists it for all these models -- the 308, the 400i, the 512BB -- as well, for $331: http://www.trutlands.com/product_info.php?products_id=2861 Regarding the MC, in another thread Lee Atkinson (new ulm 400i) recommends to buy an all-new unit for $330, from the same eBayer who is selling the reservoir mentioned above. Regarding rebuilds, I have spoken to a shop that's local to me, Power Brake Exchange, 260 Phelan Avenue, San Jose CA 95112-6109, (800) 322-1775. They will rebuild for $145, and rebuild and sleeve, if necessary, for $210. In another thread somebody recommended White Post -- http://www.whitepost.com/brake.html -- as an MC rebuilder, for between $100-$200. But somebody else dis-recommended White Post, and Lee Atkinson said his experience with a White Post rebuild persuaded him that he wished he'd got the all-new unit for $330 from the German eBayer. One final question: where can I get a workshop manual for the '83 400i? Image Unavailable, Please Login
It will take a bit of force to remove if the grommets have gone hard. The trick is to be able to remove it vertically, BUT NOT too far at one end because at that angle you will break the other ends plastic spigot that is held in by the grommet. The problem is that when you apply enough force to yank it out it will suddenly pop out too far, snapping the other other spigot. To prevent this happening you need to restrain the movement of the reservoir by placing a couple of long cable ties loosely around the reservoir/master cylinder so when the reservoir does pop out, it doesn't suddenly come out far enough to damage the spigot. Also, be prepared to buy another reservoir , they do break easily. Eurospares/Superformance/Ferrari UK pricing does not include freight ( wishful thinking there !!! Is it Christmas already ?) The "other" higher price is the price locals pay with their VAT ( tax ) You, as an export customer outisde the UK/Euro zone , don't pay the UK tax You are, however responsible for whatever taxes, duties, fees are charged at import in to your country. (which may be none) JBishops car is a Right Hand Drive GTC/4, not a LHD 400i, similar ( sort of ) but completely different as far as working out what is feasible on your car. You could ask nicely here: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showpost.php?p=140359235&postcount=9 M
The good news...is that removing the MC should be easy. There is no real secret to any of it; - the reservoir lifts straight up...nothing but a friction fit with the grommets in the MC. - Definitely no need to remove the power booster, after the 4 nuts are loosened (and the brake lines are removed). just keep easy the MC forward. The booster rod will stick into the MC, so gently work to loosen this as you move the MC forward. There is just enough space to maneuver the MC without the inner fender obstruction. My car sat for years, almost a decade....so I had 16 sticky pistons. So while you are at it, you may consider the new lines, hone the cylinders and go with new seals...If your calipers were working well, then just flush. The Workshop manual doesn't shed a lot of light on things, except to tell you that you cannot separate the booster from the MC...When you go back on with the MC, you just have to work to make sure to maintain a free gap...Good luck ! Lee
Here's a place for used ones, & I remember that they mentioned cleaning them ultrasonically. Make sure you get 'new' grommets as well. http://www.ferrari400parts.com/ferrari400partsshop.php?view=productListPage&category=1 They also mention that they have seals that prevent the reservoir caps from splitting. Was just talking to Ferrari Parts Exchange & they have a used reservoir for $65. http://www.ferraripartsexchange.com/contactus.html A question for FullGarage &/or others who own 400i's & 412's: Could you verify if the brake fluid reservoir spigot locations are the same distance apart...i.e., are the 400i & 412 reservoirs interchangeable??
I am going to try and remove my MC/booster so it can be rebuilt. Can you go over the steps for removing the booster please? Any tips/tricks/pics/don'ts would be very much appreciated. Thanks
Here is a photo of the assembly: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1592454&stc=1&d=1348627445 . It looks as if the backing plate bolts to the firewall and you just unbolt it.
I did this one too, removing the booster is not really all that bad...Not too much time under the dash. Remove the pin that moves the piston from the inside, then 4 nuts that hold the MC from the inside. Only one of these (the upper left, if I remember) is somewhat hard to get to. but with some patience (less effort than changing the rear bank plugs on a 308...) you'll get this loose. Then under the hood, its all obvious (brake lines and vacuum lines). Dewey (Power Brake Booster exchange) rebuilt and replated the booster. This came out well and the prices were all reasonable. He did not have a core to exchange, no problem it was all finished in a couple of weeks--Lee
..sorry, I see my response on the "pin" is vague, attached is a picture of the 5 points that are removed under the dash (the (4) nuts on the 8mm studs and the pin for the brake hinge...Lee Image Unavailable, Please Login
That is very helpful. Thank you. Going to get the thing off and get it sent off for repair hopefully today. I purchased a set of SS brake lines as well and will put it all on when I get the booster/MC back.
A heat gun on low aimed at the grommets can help soften the rubber enough to allow the reservoir to pop out without crumbling. If it is crazed and cracked a new one is mandatory. especially if you plan to use a pressure bleeder for the refill. Good luck!
