How to tell if a 355 throw out bearing is bad | FerrariChat
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How to tell if a 355 throw out bearing is bad

Discussion in '348/355' started by billwann, Dec 17, 2006.

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  1. billwann

    billwann Formula Junior

    Jan 5, 2004
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    Bristol Wisconsin .
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    Bill Wann
    #1 billwann, Dec 17, 2006
    Well , My clutch was slipping abit so I thought it was about time to replace it .
    I removed it no problem and found that my throw out bearing has a bit of oil leaking from behind it and the bearing seem to run a bit rough . My question is how do you tell you need to replace the throw out bearing or just the seals ?


    Thanks

    BilL Wann
     
  2. billwann

    billwann Formula Junior

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    Bill Wann
    #2 billwann, Dec 17, 2006
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  3. GCalo

    GCalo F1 Veteran

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    #3 GCalo, Dec 17, 2006
    If you are going through all that work, replace it now!

    Why take the chance of it fauiling at a later date?
     
  4. billwann

    billwann Formula Junior

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    Bill Wann
    #4 billwann, Dec 17, 2006
    That what I was thinking , but I was wondering how you tell if they are bad ?
    do they make a noise or somthing
     
  5. gothspeed

    gothspeed F1 World Champ

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    #5 gothspeed, Dec 17, 2006
    If you do replace it, Ricambi sells an "upgraded" hill engineering version for about $500 (less than factory) :)
     
  6. billwann

    billwann Formula Junior

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    Bill Wann
    #6 billwann, Dec 17, 2006
    I was going to order on from them but didnt see a hill one , can you point me to it .

    Thanks
     
  7. billwann

    billwann Formula Junior

    Jan 5, 2004
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    #7 billwann, Dec 17, 2006
    I found it , not much less than the factory .
     
  8. GCalo

    GCalo F1 Veteran

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    #8 GCalo, Dec 17, 2006
    They like all bearings will make a raspy, rotating sound.

    The fact that it is leaking tells you that more than the seal is bad.

    I learned this lesson years ago when I rebuilt the pressure plate and replaced the clutch disc on a model A Ford but thought the T/O bearing was ok.

    I found out quickly it was not and had to pull the engine again.

    So, who cares how you can tell?

    You have the signs there it's not 100% so change it now and have the peace of mind.
     
  9. gothspeed

    gothspeed F1 World Champ

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    #9 gothspeed, Dec 17, 2006
    Really? Someone told me the factory part was around $900. I guess they wanted a bigger profit margin :(.
     
  10. billwann

    billwann Formula Junior

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    #10 billwann, Dec 17, 2006
    It has been making a noise for awhile , time for a new one , is there anything else I should replace while in there , So far I have the clutch disk , pressure plate , t-o bearing, triple seal , and oring . allready replace the grease in the flywheel .
     
  11. GCalo

    GCalo F1 Veteran

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    #11 GCalo, Dec 17, 2006
    How difficult a process was it for you to get to the clutch?
     
  12. billwann

    billwann Formula Junior

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    #12 billwann, Dec 17, 2006
    It took about an hour , not bad I had help from my 14 year old next door neighbor , he did most of the work .
     
  13. billwann

    billwann Formula Junior

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    #13 billwann, Dec 17, 2006
    Let me know if you want some pictures while in in there .
     
  14. GCalo

    GCalo F1 Veteran

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    #14 GCalo, Dec 17, 2006
    I have a 360 and was wondering how tough it is to get to the clutch. I need a lift for my garage. Do you have a lift?
     
  15. billwann

    billwann Formula Junior

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    #15 billwann, Dec 17, 2006
    Funny I just bought a 360 should be here on christmas , no lift yet , Iam building a house right now with one finally . From what I here it a not that bad but its more work to do a clutch on a 360 , You have to move or drop the engine cradle and then seperate the trans from the motor . Iam sure I will be doing it soon even if it doesnt need it just to see how its done . Ive done all my own service on my 355 and it pretty easy to work on , Iam 30 and have never been into car maintnace until I goy my 355 . Had a bunch of 911s but they are a pain to work no , no room . Have you had any problems with your 360 ?
     
  16. billwann

    billwann Formula Junior

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    #16 billwann, Dec 17, 2006
    Removed teh throw out bearing and its defintly time for a new one , I can see some of the seals are split and torn and it appers that this is an old style one with only one seal on either side . looks pretty worn out . There is a lot of play in teh bearing itself and it rattles quite a bit . Not hard to take off at all , just pops off .
     
  17. GCalo

    GCalo F1 Veteran

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    #17 GCalo, Dec 18, 2006

    It's been a great car but mine is needing a clutch. I do not believe the engine has to be dropped for access to the clutch but I am not sure. I have the workshop manual that I could check to confirm.

    It's a fabulous car, and with the weather here much colder than it should be the heater is fantastic!

    The car needs to fully warm to shift and drive right.
     
  18. vvassallo

    vvassallo F1 Veteran

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    #18 vvassallo, Dec 18, 2006
    I always thought it was sort of a brake disk rubbing, metal on metal, but like it was enclosed in something sound. Definitely replace it if you are looking at it!
     
  19. Ricambi America

    Ricambi America F1 World Champ
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    #19 Ricambi America, Dec 18, 2006
  20. billwann

    billwann Formula Junior

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    #20 billwann, Dec 20, 2006
    I must thank Daniel at Ricambi for all his help on this . Hes is by far one of teh best sources to us ferrari owners . since i went with the Hill eng. Throwout bearing I had to replace the flange also ,not a big deal but a little more expensive . I will post some pictuers later .

    Cheers Bill
     
  21. gothspeed

    gothspeed F1 World Champ

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    #21 gothspeed, Dec 20, 2006
    Yes pics!! :)
     
  22. chaa

    chaa F1 Veteran

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    #22 chaa, Dec 22, 2006
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I did this for another site early this year when my throw out bearing went and i used the Hills unit. Some one may find it interesting.....or not;)

    .
    .
    Once the rear bumper, exhaust system and clutch/flywheel has been removed the tools needed are, 8mm socket, rubber mallet and brake fluid.

    1/ If there has not been a leak of any type first undo the bleed nut to release pressure of the fluid (1).

    2/At the top of the slave/bearing Carrier there are x2 8mm bolts (pic 2) that hold the slide restrictor in place. Undo these and then pull the slave/bearing away. The unit will now be in ya hand, and x2 springs will just fall out of the two spring slots, pick up and put with restrictor unit.

    3/ Check and clean the imput shaft for scores and fluid hole blockages (pic 3).

    4/ Smear the new slave cylinder/bearing seals inside the new unit with clean clutch fluid (pic 4)

    5/ Press the new unit home using an even yet very firm push to get seals over the shaft.

    6/ Once the unit is all the way on replace the x2 rear springs into there cutouts (pic 5)

    7/ Fit the x2 8mm bolts and restrictor back onto the gear box housing.

    8/ Bleed the clutch unit using the valve in picture 1. Job done dudes


    Notes/ the whole slave cylinder/bearing swap job takes maybe 5 minuets.
    Also you will see that my old factory unit has indeed burst the alloy (pic 6)casting Pushing some of the whole seal through the crack. The new unit which is made by Paul Hills has more meat on the unit and is a more robust unit, see the comparison pictures 7 & 8
    The 355 that the unit had come from was a 1995 spider with 42k miles on the clock.
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  23. gothspeed

    gothspeed F1 World Champ

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    #23 gothspeed, Dec 22, 2006
    As always, nothing but good posts from fellow F355 owner chaa!!! This one will get printed too!! :)
     
  24. PaulK

    PaulK F1 Rookie
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    #24 PaulK, Dec 22, 2006
    I second the posting of pics.
     
  25. billwann

    billwann Formula Junior

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    #25 billwann, Dec 23, 2006
    we finished this up tonight as teh new 360 gets here in teh morning I wonthave time . I used the hill throw out bearing and had to replace the flange with teh nes style one which has the spring holes farther apart . The only pain in teh hole job was bleeding the slave cylinder , we could not get it right by doing manualy so I had a friend pring over a pressure bleder and it took like 2 minuts .
    The car dosent make and weird rattling noise anymore and the clutch is alot smoother . I will post soem pis later tonight . Looks the same as Chaas pictures thou .All in all a pretty easy job .
     
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