How to Tell If a Failed Clutch Master or Slave Cylinder? | FerrariChat

How to Tell If a Failed Clutch Master or Slave Cylinder?

Discussion in 'Mondial' started by freelapl, Dec 30, 2018.

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  1. freelapl

    freelapl Karting

    May 8, 2006
    88
    Los Angeles, CA, USA
    Full Name:
    Pete Freeland
    I've been working on restoring a 1985 3.0 QV and had to remove and disassemble the motor completely to replace failed piston rings. The overall process has taken about 3 years, and now after getting the motor back into the car I'm having problems getting the clutch hydraulic system to work. I've bled the brakes and all is good there, but unable to get any fluid from reservoir back to the clutch slave cylinder. I've tried all of methods I've seen in other threads, including the two person method with holding nipple closed alternately while clutch pedal is pushed for over 30 min, and have also used a power bleeder to pressurize up to 15 psi. I have also attached the small hand vacuum pump to the nipple bleed screw on top of slave cylinder, trying it both solo and with another person pumping the clutch pedal to draw the fluid in via suction. No luck with multiple attempts on those methods, and tried to do the reverse method of squirting DOT 3 into the slave cylinder nipple but no luck there either - couldn't get the fluid to go into the slave at all.

    Below are a couple of photos of the power bleeder connected to the reservoir, and my clutch master cylinder & reservoir. In bleeding the brakes I would see fluid leave the reservoir, but haven't been able to get any to leave while working this for the clutch - not a drop.....so I am suspecting there might be an issue in the master cylinder. Is it possible something has "gummed up" the master cylinder so that it doesn't pump fluid? Could the hose between the reservoir and master cylinder be plugged? Any way to check that? There are no fluid leaks of the master cylinder, either on outside of it or inside near the pedal. The pedal doesn't get stuck or go all the way to the floor, and comes back normally on its own after being pressed down.

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    I'm completely stuck and not sure what way to proceed on this. The clutch hydraulic line was open at the slave cylinder connection while the engine repair was being done over the 3 years timeframe, so not sure if that could lead to this problem as the system would have been full of air. I tried disconnected the hose at the slave cylinder and continued the pumping & bleeding process, thinking that maybe I could at least confirm fluid to that point...but that has been unsuccessful as well.

    Is there an easy way to confirm if the master cylinder is working, or if it is plugged up? Is there something I'm missing in doing this? I'm really stuck on this and not sure what to do next so any insights or suggestions would be appreciated! Thanks!
     
  2. swong46

    swong46 Karting

    Jun 24, 2015
    137
    Bay Area, CA
    Did you try disconnecting the hard line at the master? Sounds like you've done everything else to see where the blockage is except this.

    I had all sorts of clutch hydraulic issues but not like yours, just everything was worn out. Got a new master cylinder and now everything is great.
     
  3. Mechanical Dad

    Mechanical Dad Formula Junior

    Aug 30, 2016
    381
    East Aurora NY
    Full Name:
    Josh
    Agree with above post. Pull the hard line and start at the beginning. Hold you finger over the hole on the master while someone pushes slowly down on the pedal and check for fluid. If the master has air, they wont bleed sometimes until you isolate them and address it first. Also when masters get air in them for a long period, the seals and orings can breakdown and can clog up the ports. I see this all the time in my shop. Unhook the far end of the hard line as well and blow through the line with a small amount of compressed air to see if it's clear of debris and put a rag over the end and see if anything comes out. Doesn't take much to block a passage off.
     
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  4. spicedriver

    spicedriver F1 Rookie

    Feb 1, 2011
    3,859
    Maybe I'm reading this wrong, but you want the nipple open while the clutch pedal is pushed. Close the nipple, then release the pedal. This process does take some time because the slave is way in the back. Not like on a front engine car.

    Also, is the fluid level in the reservoir going down ? This will tell you if fluid is going out to the slave. I would think that if the line was clogged, the pedal would feel stiff, and not want to move.
     
  5. theunissenguido

    theunissenguido Formula 3
    Owner Silver Subscribed

    Jan 21, 2004
    2,372
    Argent/Brasil
    Full Name:
    Guido
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  6. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
    Consultant

    Nov 29, 2001
    12,662
    San Carlos, CA
    Full Name:
    Mitchell Le
    Bleed the master first, then apply pressure to the line to see if it clears all the way to the slave cylinder, then bleed the line / slave.
     
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  7. freelapl

    freelapl Karting

    May 8, 2006
    88
    Los Angeles, CA, USA
    Full Name:
    Pete Freeland
    OK will give that a try. I haven't done anything yet specific to the master so will try that and see if fluid moves through from there, at least I will know if the master is good or not. Thanks!
     
  8. freelapl

    freelapl Karting

    May 8, 2006
    88
    Los Angeles, CA, USA
    Full Name:
    Pete Freeland
    Thanks Guido - from what it sounds like there is a strong chance I will need new seals,but will do the tests suggested and if needed will get them ordered asap. Thanks!
     
  9. freelapl

    freelapl Karting

    May 8, 2006
    88
    Los Angeles, CA, USA
    Full Name:
    Pete Freeland
    Hi, yes that is exactly what we did....3 times for over 30 minutes each time and once for over an hour...but no luck whatsoever. Fluid level never went down and nothing came through the slave bleed nipple.
     
  10. freelapl

    freelapl Karting

    May 8, 2006
    88
    Los Angeles, CA, USA
    Full Name:
    Pete Freeland
    Hi, I tried to purchase them on this site but they aren't available directly - they aren't listed in their webshop and no way to actually order them. I tried sending them a direct message via their web response page but it won't send. Any other suggestions on how to get a set? BTW my direct email is [email protected] if that helps... Thanks!
     
  11. spicedriver

    spicedriver F1 Rookie

    Feb 1, 2011
    3,859
  12. theunissenguido

    theunissenguido Formula 3
    Owner Silver Subscribed

    Jan 21, 2004
    2,372
    Argent/Brasil
    Full Name:
    Guido
    Those seals have to be produced recently and installed when they are a little warm to make the rubber more soft. Redbaycar seals are soft when sold. I will contact Stefan from that site directly or you can do [email protected]....he whas just in holiday in Greece and its NEW Year !!!Happy NEW YEAR to all !!

    Guido
     
  13. stekkefun4

    stekkefun4 Formula 3
    BANNED

    Nov 22, 2006
    2,232
    Belgium - Europe
    Hmmmm... I've been in Athens, Greece, for 5 days and the site was working well. Anyhow, they are available on this page: https://redbaycars.com/webshop.html#!/ferrari-mondial-qv/products/rubber-seals-for-clutch-mondial
     
  14. MvT

    MvT F1 Rookie

    May 25, 2013
    4,248
    The Netherlands - NH
    Full Name:
    Tijn
    Rebuild the master and slave. It is just a matter of time before the fail anyway. Rubber does not last forever. This way you also will prevent to get e brake down during a drive. :)

    It's an easy rebuild for a few $$$ unless your old master is rusty inside then you will need to hone out the cylinder with a hone set. Don't hone to much else you will need bigger O-rings.

    I suggest you first take it apart to see the state inside. On my Alfa I had, it was to far gone and I needed a new master.
     
  15. freelapl

    freelapl Karting

    May 8, 2006
    88
    Los Angeles, CA, USA
    Full Name:
    Pete Freeland
    Hey everyone so a quick update. First, thanks for all the help, insight, and suggestions. I did the troubleshooting and found out the the hose between the reservoir and the master cylinder had literally disintegrated from the inside. When I disconnected it at the master cylinder and bled it for a while I saw all kinds of debris, bad fluid, etc so that was likely a contributing factor. The clutch master cylinder is inop - normal peddle movement but doesn't move any fluid. I'm going to the local NAPA auto parts store to get a replacement intake hose, and will get a new replacement clutch master cylinder as it's likely the hone on the inside was damaged by all the debris and new seals alone will likely not fix it. I have a replacement clutch master cylinder on order, so hopefully soon will have it fully operational.

    Thanks to everyone for all of your help - I knew the Fchat community would be the right place to go for wisdom, insight, and help. I feel very fortunate to be part of a group that cares about the cars and is as passionate as I am about them. Thank you all!!!
     
  16. todd6363

    todd6363 Formula Junior

    Jan 20, 2007
    270
    Ohio
    Full Name:
    Todd
    Had to replace clutch master cyl on my Testarossa, I removed line into bell housing and put cleaner thru it just to get all the crud out. Might think about it while you have line off.
     
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