430 Huge oil pump failure

There’s a seal on either side of the weep hole on the shaft. One side is oil. The other side is coolant.

 

Following.
I don't think a "seep" would have caused any issues at all, your car would have had to be gushing oil.
Any other signs?

 

I gotcha, so almost like a seal broke and just shot all the oil out over a few laps?

 

If the oil is coming out the tell tail, it will have collected on the bottom tray and when you go around the corner it has gone on the tyre. An oil leak is unusual as its normally the waterside which is no problem .
Looking at the pic, that tell tail is right next to the water pump, so the mechanical seal might have failed. Easy enough to rebuild with a repair kit if you have a lift to get to it

 

Not sure, i think different frame numbers have different pt no pump. Jgivoo on here has the correct repair kit with the mechanical seals etc- there is a u tube on rebuilding it and dead simple. I looked at doing mine myself but you might get it off with the car jacked up- you need 2 pairs of hands and a lift to refit it.
Just check the oil is coming from the tell tail and not running down the back of the pump from the o rings on the block

 

Is that one of the china made kits ? If that pump has been rebuilt twice then something else going on with the drive to the pump from the engine

 

or it was rebuilt twice by the same idiot

 

Have you seen the pics of the plastic sheets to help refit the pump ?

 

Go to the local stationary store and get a few plastic folders, the thin stiff plastic. Then make plywood handles and bolt each side of the plastic. Other way is 3 drops of superglue @120 deg on the o ring to hold in situ

 

Man, I'm sorry to hear this. I didn't have a failure, but had some coolant weeping, so given the 65k hard miles on my car I figured I'd just replace the whole unit and not try to rebuild it. I'm glad I did because the new pump gears meshed more easily and I could tell they would create more pressure than my old unit, so I like the peace of mind knowing that my oil is circulating at the max pressure possible. Since my car is an 08 I used the later pump part number. With that said, I THINK the only difference is a bracket for the early cars (and 6 speed cars). But I don't know for sure. It was a fiddly job, mostly due to tight access to many of the bolts, but not technically difficult (provided you have a lift and a way to support the engine while the motor mount on the right side is off). Also, I had to grind/trim a few wrenches and sockets (did I mention some of the spaces are tight?).

I did not need the special tool or any superglue. I used "o-ring" lube that I got at home depot. It is silicone based and the brand is Danco. Found it in the faucet repair isle. The WSM mentions a "grease" for the orings and I even tried to source it by calling the dealer, but they said "the techs just have a tub of stuff they use...no part number or retail option). However, this "grease" serves no lubrication function and I didn't care if it would hold up to heat. The only purpose is to keep the orings in place (which are on all sides of the pump) while installing so they don't fall out of place (and so you are not tempted to commit suicide trying to keep them all in place while contorting the pump into position). I had zero issues using this grease because it is super sticky and no orings shifted or moved at all, even the ones oriented upside down. And after 500 miles, I took the undertray off and there are no leaks.

About that radial seal. I replaced mine even though there were zero signs of seepage or damage. But it was not fun getting it out. You do NOT want to score the bore it sits in or you will get leaks, which excludes using any type of pry tool or pick against the edges of the seal. So what I did was drill two small opposing holes in the recess of the installed seal, screw in two coarse thread drywall screws, and gently work the seal out using pliers on the screw heads. Took a bit of finesse but it came out fine. Before you remove the old seal, mark with a sharpie the insertion depth because as I recall it was not obvious how deep to insert the new seal. to install the new seal I just used an appropriate sized socket to apply even pressure around the circumference of the seal and then gently tapped with a rubber mallet to the appropriately marked depth. I actually regretted replacing this seal because of the stress and consternation it caused me trying to figure out how to safely extract it, and because it showed no signs of wear, but now I'm very glad that I did after hearing your story. Shoot me a pm and I'll give you my number and I can share alot more detail. I'm going to do a diy write up with pics but was just being lazy. Maybe I should try to do it now! There are a lot of little hints I can share that will hopefully save you some time!

 

yes sir. will work on the diy write up later today. May God be with you LOL! Its not a fun job but I'm hoping with my hints the next person will have an easier time!

 

I clicked on this thread expecting catastrophic engine failure. I'm glad that you only have a minor issue.

 

KY jelly works well

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